Engine test stand

[Dave WM]

46 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I'm sure this has been discussed but I must. Is your cold start valve out of the picture?

cold start is there, thermo time not working, so I just manually fire it from time to time for testing with a stand alone battery  pack. thought about wiring directly to the "start" position without the aid of time or temp (would just unplug if thought I was cranking too much), but that is cheating, and should not be required. Have to get to the root of the problem. My car starts fine with no CSV help with the temps we have now, so need to work out this spare problem.

I don't want to start pulling parts of my perfect running car to fix it, something about a bird in the hand.

[Dave WM]

Got a new manifold gasket, may pick up some Kools later for a smoke generator Was thinking I could put the butt into a rubber hose, then put a larger rubber hose over the entire smoke, blow into the larger hose and use the smaller long rubber hose to the manifold. I would prefer not to smoke those things directly esp Kools, IIRC those were like smoking fiberglass.

Edited April 26, 2019 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

oh forgot to mention I did triple check all the O rings on the injector nozzles are present.

[siteunseen]

3 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

cold start is there, thermo time not working, so I just manually fire it from time to time for testing with a stand alone battery  pack. thought about wiring directly to the "start" position without the aid of time or temp (would just unplug if thought I was cranking too much), but that is cheating, and should not be required. Have to get to the root of the problem. My car starts fine with no CSV help with the temps we have now, so need to work out this spare problem.

I don't want to start pulling parts of my perfect running car to fix it, something about a bird in the hand.

I was thinking it might be leaky.

[Dave WM]

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I was thinking it might be leaky.

I checked it before I installed it, but it will be checked again, thx for the reminder.

[JSM]

I would think this would be pretty cheap way to make something Dave. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html

[Dave WM]

ZH forgot to respond back, yes ran it for several minutes (now that I have the rad and t stat) prob around 3k based on hearing. I am going to reset every thing this week end, starting with a full tank of fuel and new manifold gasket.

more info

no EGR  on this setup (intake not setup for it)

PCV valve sound ok (free to move, clicking heard), hose installed.

water temp tested right at 180f

 

[Dave WM]

3 hours ago, JSM said:

I would think this would be pretty cheap way to make something Dave. 

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html

interesting, but I saw something else that may work even better, I have a sniffer for AC leaks, maybe I can use it so find the leak if I can find a safe gas that it can operate on, heck may work with dust off. just block off the intake, and pump in the dust off thru the brake port. I think I will test that to see how the sniffer reacts to it.

or I could just pull a Scotty and break out a stogie I suppose, will have to video that so you can see me turn green...

Edited April 27, 2019 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

new manifold gasket, tested with smoke, yikes, still leak at #6, for all my checking and saying all the o rings were there, I did indeed miss one. argh.

Anyway test run at it pretty much starts right up but still not right BUT now it will start and continue to idle albeit poorly with the WTS connected, disconnect it and it dies.

Going to get a fresh set of plugs and try it again. just to see if they still show super rich. Also going to just plug the CSV, no need for it with 80+ temps.

fuel pressure looks good, FPR responding to vacuum. I should have tried removing the oil cap. Tomorrow got to give it a break.

one thing for sure I know I have no leaks at the manifold the annoying exhaust tick is gone.

oh gosh those thin cigars my wife got for me to puff on, OMG they are TERRIBLE!!!!!!

Edited April 27, 2019 by Dave WM

[siteunseen]

You can clamp the fuel line to the csv.

Little bitty cigars? I've seen people smoking those in rap vidyos.

[Dave WM]

4 hours ago, siteunseen said:

You can clamp the fuel line to the csv.

Little bitty cigars? I've seen people smoking those in rap vidyos.

just going to put a bolt in it.

Other things I am going to do, replace the WTS with a pot so I can dial in resistance, JIC my WTS is the issue (seems like it should be ok based on the reading I get when testing but who knows, I was wrong about the o ring :)

Timing light

Tach resistor (neg coil to gnd, 2.2k)

I feel progress was made since the WTS sensor can stay connected now. I think it was still pig rich, I did not pull the plugs buy my eyes were stinging, I assume from the rich mixture. Fuming up the garage something awful.

 

 

 

[Zed Head]

3 hours ago, Dave WM said:

Tach resistor (neg coil to gnd, 2.2k)

I feel progress was made since the WTS sensor can stay connected now. I think it was still pig rich, I did not pull the plugs buy my eyes were stinging, I assume from the rich mixture. Fuming up the garage something awful.

If it's rich the potentiometer isn't going to help.  So did the weird behavior go away?

Did anyone suggest the usual "check your FPR vacuum line for gasoline" test for a failed FPR?  You're a newbie now....