Jump to content

IGNORED

Rear wheel bearing help 240z


HuD 91gt

Recommended Posts

Hello,

i was following the AtlanticZ  website when changing my rear wheel bearings.

I froze the rear axles, heated the bearing and tried to slip it on.

I only got partway onto the inner machined surface for the outer bearing. 

It seems really odd that I would have to press the bearing over one surface before even getting to the surface it is suppose to mount too.

Did I get the wrong bearings?

 

 

B2F9C133-5C77-4215-8BB6-28B7C6524EEE.jpeg

716DBCF5-F934-440F-90D6-5A5C39F1E5FB.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, HuD 91gt said:

It seems really odd that I would have to press the bearing over one surface before even getting to the surface it is suppose to mount too.

Did I get the wrong bearings?

Maybe.  Probably.  What bearings did you get?  Can't see the part number from out here.  Hope they didn't come in that Home Depot bag.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, that's the just the way they are, it's suppose to tight fit so they don't rotate.  If you can remove that bearing again but ONLY by the inner ring, little to no pressure on the outside ring, then you need to check the bearing surfaces on the axle for any burrs. Start with some steel wool and spin it around the shaft to see if it catches on anything,  you can also slightly bevel the the edges of the bearing surface with some 400-600 grit paper. A wire wheel will do the same thing. Then grease the axle and pop it in the freezer and have a pipe ready that fits over the axle and is the same Dia. as the inner ring of the roller bearing, your going to use that pipe to tap it down into place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bearings are from Beck Arnley. The outer is a Japanese made made unit.

im not new to installing bearings, what im confused about is the fact the inner bearing seems to be the same diameter as the outer.  Sadly I didn’t lube the first section as I expected it to be a smaller diameter and slip right over. With the temperature difference between parts it slid on far enough I can’t remove without getting a little creative and hopefully not damage the bearing.  

 

If this is way it is supposed to be, I’ll manage to get it off, refeeeze/heat and be ready to press/tap immediately 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the way it's supposed to be. The inboard and outboard bearings both have the same ID. (FYI, same OD too):

https://www.vsm.skf.com/us/en/products/GRW116
https://www.vsm.skf.com/us/en/products/GRW117

Part Number: GRW116Type: Wheel Bearing
Part Information:
Outer Diameter: 2.7500 in
Inner Diameter: 1.2500 in
Width: 0.687 in

Part Number: GRW117Type: Wheel Bearing
Part Information:
Outer Diameter: 2.7500 in
Inner Diameter: 1.2500 in
Width: 0.8646 in

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's already started and straight, you should be able to tap it on through, with a piece of pipe like grannyknot said.  Put some lube on the axle below it.  You can put quite a beating on the races, just try to avoid transferring that load to the balls.  Take care of the balls.  Don't Brinell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.