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z8987

I've been looking for a project

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14 hours ago, 7tooZ said:

So you fixed the venting issue by reversing the direction. The vent on the rear with the 180 turn in the hose does cause the tank to not fill all of the way if blocked. I had that issue recently when the hose collapsed. Just run a straight hose up to your tank next to the fill tube.  
I would be curious how your tank turns out and what it cost you. If you don’t mind. 

I still need a clutch box?  Any ideas on where I can get one?

 

Also, 7tooZ. My tank seems to be working fine.  I had it boiled and lined. I don't recall the cost. I'll look around for the receipt. I'm in California, I don't know the exchange rate for the sane world. 

 

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What about suspension?  I drove the car yesterday. The first time it's been on the road in 15 years.  I'm sure there is a way to modernize the suspension. I'm talking to a guy that work's on Z's and he has some ideas.  I'm wondering what people here have done.

 

It will probably never see the track. I'd consider the car a daily driver. If I modernize the suspension, I don't want it to ride rougher. It should ride as nice as it does now or better? 

 

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1 hour ago, z8987 said:

 I'm wondering what people here have done.

 I'd consider the car a daily driver. If I modernize the suspension, I don't want it to ride rougher. It should ride as nice as it does now or better? 

New shocks.  KYB's are popular.  They give a good ride.

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Fresh Tires close to the original size will work wonders for both ride and handling.  195/70x14's - 205/60x15's will work, but steering is a little harder and wider tires tend to "track" or follow the road more. Very important to assure you have good bushings in the Tension/Compression rods.  KYBs are good if you can still get them, Tokico gas pressures are fine as well.  Stock spring rates are fine, a slightly larger diameter front anti-sway bar improves handling without having too much effect on ride quality.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Carl Beck said:

Fresh Tires close to the original size will work wonders for both ride and handling.  195/70x14's - 205/60x15's will work, but steering is a little harder and wider tires tend to "track" or follow the road more. Very important to assure you have good bushings in the Tension/Compression rods.  KYBs are good if you can still get them, Tokico gas pressures are fine as well.  Stock spring rates are fine, a slightly larger diameter front anti-sway bar improves handling without having too much effect on ride quality.

 

 

I had a guy that works on z’s look at my car.  He’s the one that fixed my brakes.  He said I should probably replace the ball joints.  I looked in the articles section to see if there were any documents on replacing ball joints, and whatever els may need to be changed out in the suspension.  Are there things that I should replace just as a good thing to do for a car that is 50 years old and hasn’t been driven in 15 years. I’m just talking about the suspension for now? 

 

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Now that I'm driving the car on a regular basis I need to fix the windows and get a better seal on the doors.  The passengers side door window doesn't roll up at all. The drivers side rolls up if I pull it up while turning the handle.  Can I just replace the mechanisms inside the door?   What about the seals in the doors and windows.  They are all original, should I replace them, or is there a way to get more life out of them? 

 

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Seems like MSA sales weather stripping piece by piece? there's also an alternative donor car that works. Can't remember which though, Yugo maybe but it's a junkyard thing you go pull off. It's a Kia car! brain fart with Yugo.

Google "kia weather stripping classiczcars.com" there's tons of info on it.

Edited by siteunseen

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1 hour ago, z8987 said:

Now that I'm driving the car on a regular basis I need to fix the windows and get a better seal on the doors.  The passengers side door window doesn't roll up at all. The drivers side rolls up if I pull it up while turning the handle.  Can I just replace the mechanisms inside the door?   What about the seals in the doors and windows.  They are all original, should I replace them, or is there a way to get more life out of them? 

Most of the time - the problem with windows rolling up/down are caused by the felt pads and seals in the window door frames. You have to take the door apart - pull the window frames out - and replace the felt and rubber seals. Many times the plastic rollers on the window lift will be gone as well.. but cleaning and new grease will solve most problems.

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5 hours ago, Carl Beck said:

Most of the time - the problem with windows rolling up/down are caused by the felt pads and seals in the window door frames. You have to take the door apart - pull the window frames out - and replace the felt and rubber seals. Many times the plastic rollers on the window lift will be gone as well.. but cleaning and new grease will solve most problems.

Do you know of a window parts kit?  or which one is best ? 

 

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I got the regulator out.  The plastic slides are worn out. Do I replace these, or buy a new regulator?  And where do I get these parts.  Zcardepot doesn't seem to have them. 

 

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I took the register and cleaned it up. The tracks were all full of dried up grease. Some of the grease took a screw driver to  get out.  I had to pull all the tracks to clean them.  Cleaned the register in my parts cleaner, and then I did a final cleaning with the products in the picture.  All gun oil and grease. 

The good news I got it back together and it works.  I adjusted everything by rolling the window up and down finding the smoothest place for each of the tracks and tightening them up.  I left all the tracks a little bit loose and rolled the window up and down until one of the tracks  stopped moving, when it stopped I tightened it up. that worked pretty well. It doesn't seem to be binding up.  

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About the plastic guide rollers on the ends of the lift arms - A friend of mine took his regulators to a local Machine Shop - they removed the original rivets and found plastic guide rollers that would work -then riveted the new one’s back on. You could also use a bolt on type - just cut the bolt off and spot weld..
Something like these…
 
With 50 year old cars - sometimes you just have to make the part..
good luck,
Carl
 

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13 hours ago, z8987 said:

 

I got the regulator out.  The plastic slides are worn out. Do I replace these, or buy a new regulator?  And where do I get these parts.  Zcardepot doesn't seem to have them. 

 

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You look at motorsports.com, MSA.

I'm just starting to get ready to pull of my door card. I've got the small pry thing for the plastic push ins.

Do have any tips that might help me since it's fresh on your mind? I would appreciate it.  BTW I'm fixing my door opening rod and installing a new mirror. Thanks!

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There are only 4 screws and 2 nuts that need to be removed, I found a nice diagram I’ll post here as soon as I find it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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3 hours ago, siteunseen said:

There's a video on that site.  Thank you very much!

I ordered some of the grommets he mentioned.  you can buy 4 at a time now. I ordered 12 just in case.  I'm trying to only do work that I can put back together in a day. I really like driving the car so I don't wan it to be down. . 

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I see great restore projects being performed at home.  I like the idea of doing this, but I also like the idea of having it done. Who would you trust to do a full restore? 

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2 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

There's 4 or 5 guys that restore them on here.  I guess finding one close by would be best. @motorman7 seems to be the main one presently.  Where are you located, left coast or right? LOL

 

California, Sacramento area

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I've been driving and just enjoying the 70z.  I found another z in a garage.  This one has been sitting for over 30 years and appears to be in great shape.  

 

Something I haven't done to the 70 z is any suspension work.  I think it would be a good idea to check out he bearings and running gear.  I don't want the car to be down long, so I'm looking for advise on how to start this and what I can do that will not keep the car down for long.  I don't want to do any work twice, I'd rather have it down longer and complete any logical work to be done at the same time. 

 

Front first? Back first? Is there anything that might be too difficult for my skills. So far I've been able to do everything to get this car on the road.  It sat for 15 years, and it required a lot of work. 

 

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