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motorman7

We're bringin' back the Flat Tops!

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lookin' damn noice! 😍

for your fuel filter to fuel pump hose, and the hose that connects the rail that wraps around the rocker cover to the carbs, you can get that spiral wrapped rubber hose that looks damn near identical to the OEM stuff by going to a hydraulic hose outfitter and asking for gasoline safe hose that has no wire reinforcement. best to bring a sample with you.

there are two sizes on the car (forgetting right now, but i think 5/16 and 1/4), and both of them are usually stocked as they are common agricultural and industrial sizes. they should have white lettering painted on to denote the hose type/DOT compliance- but it can be removed without damaging the hose using brake cleaner, and some tire shine  or detail spray on the hose makes them come up nice and bright like the original ones.

lookin' for photos but coming up short, but i promise you'll like it more than regular fuel injection hose (and it's actually cheaper)!

Edited by Careless

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44 minutes ago, Careless said:

for your fuel filter to fuel pump hose, and the hose that connects the rail that wraps around the rocker cover to the carbs, you can get that spiral wrapped rubber hose that looks damn near identical to the OEM stuff by going to a hydraulic hose outfitter and asking for gasoline safe hose that has no wire reinforcement. best to bring a sample with you.

Hi Careless,

   Send me a link when you get a chance.  This is the stuff I ahave been using, which is the closest that I have found to the OEM.  http://newcoproducts.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=34_44_304

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Yeah that's the stuff. Couldn't see the wrap detail in the photo I was looking at when zoomed in. I thought you were using the rubber with the mesh reinforcement that makes it look somewhat like diamond pleated rubber (if that makes any sense).

I don't really have a link for the hose I used because I just went to the hose supplier's sales counter, but it's identical to what you got there from cohline, just that Newco has (or had) a ridiculous minimum order price for Canadian buyers so I didn't buy from them, nor do I recommend anyone buy from them for that exact reason.

It's a poor business practice.

Edited by Careless

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Got the intake and balance tube bead blasted.  I finished those off with a coat of matte clear to help with finger print removal.   I probably should have removed the gaskets before I had the bead blast done.  Noticed one damaged core plug in what looks to be the exhaust port of the balance tube.  Working with parts store now to replace all of the core plugs. 

Also got the fuel tank cleaned and sealed and the new exhaust bent and welded up.  Will post pics of those later.

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Edited by motorman7

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Here are pics of the exhaust system.  I brought an original exhaust system to my muffler guy and he replicated it using a Nissan resonator.  Downpipe and  Rear muffler with tip (not shown) are all from jdm-car-parts.com.  This is the same set-up I did on the previous build and it sounds great.

Got a couple of the core plugs replaced.

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I'm not sold on the bead blast finish of the intake manifold. I have been using vapour blasting to refinish my alloy parts and wouldn't try anything else personally. I'm not sure how good these looked 50 years ago, but I feel these look better than new and that may be "over" restoring for some, but I'm more than happy with it.

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10 hours ago, motorman7 said:

Here are pics of the exhaust system.  I brought an original exhaust system to my muffler guy and he replicated it using a Nissan resonator.  Downpipe and  Rear muffler with tip (not shown) are all from jdm-car-parts.com.  This is the same set-up I did on the previous build and it sounds great.

Got a couple of the core plugs replaced.

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Great Job on that system!!  Would be interesting to see the replacement side by side with the original.   That Nissan Part Number shows up as "NLA" and part of a larger assy. How did your muffler man find it?  I have been hoping that someone would reproduce the resonators.....

 

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44 minutes ago, Carl Beck said:

Great Job on that system!!  Would be interesting to see the replacement side by side with the original.   That Nissan Part Number shows up as "NLA" and part of a larger assy. How did your muffler man find it?  I have been hoping that someone would reproduce the resonators.....

 

Hi Carl,

     I will pull out one of my old exhaust systems and put them side by side in the next day or two.  My muffler guy has been around for a while and actually had a couple of these Nissan resonators back in his storage.  Unfortunately, I think he said this is his last one and I actually need another one made for my white Z.  I am not sure what Nissan model they were made for.  I think he told me but I forgot.  I will save the part number and probably keep a look out on eBay.

    I am surprised that Jay does not make these.  He makes the front and the back, but not the middle section.  My muffler guy does a pretty good job with these as the last one went in perfectly.

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Got the fuel tank sealed, cleaned up and painted.  Loosely installed the tank so I can start running all of the hoses.  That's always fun.

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Got a new passenger side window regulator.  Original had a broken wheel which doesn't work so well.  Installed that last night.  

Attached an exhaust system comparison.  My original is still at the muffler shop since I need another one, but here is the comparison with a spare I had in the backyard (That's a scary place)

Worked on the Carb plumbing.  I have one partially broken water system fitting that might still work.  Will check today to see if I can find a new one.  Also, I need the plumbing that goes from the water feed tube to the carbs.  That is totally MIA.  Will have to put out an APB to see if anyone has those.   Will post pics of parts I need  later today.

Was playing with camera settings on car pic.

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47 minutes ago, Terrapin Z said:

Well it is not as nice as your example, but it is available.

PM sent

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18 hours ago, Terrapin Z said:

Well it is not as nice as your example, but it is available.

 

Thanks Terrapin.  The community on classiczcars is a wonderful resource! 

 

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I agree @jayhawk I have learned many things about these cars on this site, discovered some tricks, and have bought and sold here too. 

Great community indeed. 

 

Part is going out USPS today.Glad to help out.

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Being an engineer, I have to say that the carb heat shields inherently have a heat transfer issue.  There are black insulators between the heat shield and carb float bowl, but the securing bolts on the opposite side directly contact the heat shield and screw directly into the float bowl base.  This means that all of the heat that the heat shield is absorbing is transferred through the bolt assembly into the base of the float bowl., which means the shield is not helping very much and the float bowl is acting like a heat sink.  So, I added two gray fiber washers on the opposite side of the heat shield (from the insulators) so that the bolts do not directly contact the heat shield.  This way the heat shield is isolated and not channeling as much heat into the float bowl.  This is pretty much the only mod that i have made to the carbs and hopefully it reduces the susceptibility to vapor lock.

I picked up a new front flat top carb on eBay for fairly cheap...couldn't pass it up.  I am debating on whether to cannibalize it and put some of the parts on the rebuilt front carb, like the fuel filter, plastic cap and choke diaphragm.  Or, just install it on the front.  The problem with the second option is the finish is slightly different.  I am also considering trying to make the rear flat top finish match the new carb.  The new carb has a flat finish, so maybe a light bead blast would do the trick.  Still weighing  options here.

Got some new carb insulators...those look cool.

OK, now my latest issue.  The throttle linkage that connects the two carbs is too long.  I have three sets, and I think all are for SU's.  Never realized that the linkage for the flat tops is shorter than the linkage for the SU's.  You can see in that second to the last pic that the linkage is too long, my guess is that it is too long by 1/4".  Was thinking that maybe I assembled something wrong, but that is really not possible.  The carb throttle shafts control the span distance, and the linkage I have goes beyond the throttle shafts.  Anyway, will need to research this a little bit.  Maybe @Zup or @Captain Obvious can provide a bit of insight.

Ahhhh, the '73 linkage is definitely different.  Just added pic at bottom

 

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Edited by motorman7

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Hi Rich,

Yes, you are correct, the center linkage length is specific to the flat tops.

I have spares and will send it along if you need.

 

p.s. Small point of a different sort---Turn the vacuum servo diaphragm 180* so that the inlet from the throttle opener control valve assembly is to the rear as you face it.

Edited by Zup
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3 minutes ago, Zup said:

Hi Rich,

Yes, you are correct, the center linkage length is specific to the flat tops.

I have spares and will send it along if you need.

Yes, please send.  I can cover you through PayPal....or trade you 2 of my SU linkages for your 1 flat top linkage ☺️

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4 hours ago, motorman7 said:

Being an engineer, I have to say that the carb heat shields inherently have a heat transfer issue.  There are black insulators between the heat shield and carb float bowl, but the securing bolts on the opposite side directly contact the heat shield and screw directly into the float bowl base.  This means that all of the heat that the heat shield is absorbing is transferred through the bolt assembly into the base of the float bowl., which means the shield is not helping very much and the float bowl is acting like a heat sink.  So, I added two gray fiber washers on the opposite side of the heat shield (from the insulators) so that the bolts do not directly contact the heat shield.  This way the heat shield is isolated and not channeling as much heat into the float bowl.  This is pretty much the only mod that i have made to the carbs and hopefully it reduces the susceptibility to vapor lock.

@Zup
@Captain Obvious

 

 

Pardon the ignorance of a Flat Top owner (actually they are also SU carbs. SU HIF designs)  but did the round top carbs have any heat shields?

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20 minutes ago, jayhawk said:

Pardon the ignorance of a Flat Top owner (actually they are also SU carbs. SU HIF designs)  but did the round top carbs have any heat shields?

Yes, the round tops have a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the carbs. You can see the heat shield in this shot

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Put the exhaust in this weekend.  Need to go the store and get some muffler clamps, used the hose clamps since they were available.   Parts to finish out the carbs should be coming in this week.  Will need to get those plated, then will install hose.

 

Also, need a little help finding the rear bumperette rubber. You can see it is missing in the last pic. They are different for the '73 than the earlier models and don't seem to be readily available.  These ones on eBay seem to be the right ones, but not sure, no part number.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/REAR-BUMPER-BAR-RUBBER-OVERRIDER-RUBBER-INSERTS-for-DATSUN-NISSAN-240Z-260Z/132883410645

 

 

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Edited by motorman7

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