Rust Advice 78 280z

[esmit208]

3 hours ago, Dave WM said:

Good for you to tackle that job, and congrats on the baby, if she is your 1st welcome to the roller coaster of parent hood. They grow very fast out of the stage, so enjoy while you can.

I would suggest you get a good quality welder, think of it as a long term investment, be prepared to spend 1k min. I got a cheap o from HF to weld up some exhaust pipe. Should have spent the money for a 120/240 with more controls on current. I got the 240 which is a pain to power up, I would think that the 120 option should be fine for thin sheet metal. Also buy a big cylinder of shield gas, don't be tempted to try using flux rod, makes a big mess. As a novice I think the best possible equipment will make the experience less pain, and also get some scrap body parts to practice on.

Yes 1K is just about right and definitely try to learn using gas, (argon& Co2 mix) I was fortunate in that sense though. My Dad got a summer job for me working with him when I was just 15 years old welding. I hit 60 this year so there was a re-familiarization process but it was like riding a bike. If there is a junior college in your area it might be worth looking into to see if they offer a 1 semester class. You might find you like working with metal. Many real cool ideas if you are DIY guy. CONGRATULATIONS on the new addition BTW

[gotham22]

Guys, I was able to do some work on the car today.  Started cutting out the cancer!

 

[grannyknot]

Cancer is right, you will want to fix that section completely before moving to the next area so as not to weaken any part of the unibody too much. Looks good

[tzagi1]

11 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Cancer is right, you will want to fix that section completely before moving to the next area so as not to weaken any part of the unibody too much. Looks good

Wouldn't be bad idea to weld on some temporary cross members before chopping commenced. 

[gotham22]

Not supposed to see the ground right?!  Ugghh.  Someone tried to do a half assed fiberglass repair that I cut out today.  In the second picture (the one without daylight to the ground) , is this just a coating applied to the metal?

[gwri8]

Consider it after market cross ventilation?.  At least you had more floorboard than hole.  Repairs ON!  

On the tunnel, that looks like typical factory sound deadening/ insulation, a tar like coating.  I've heard dry ice and a scraper work well to remove it.

[240260280]

I just removed the same hard coating from my 77's floors. A blunt big screw driver and a hammer.  Hit at shallow angles and the coating will come off in chunks.

[gotham22]

So what would be the procedure here? I know I need to cut and grind until I get to good metal. Do i remove the frame rail first or fix the floor pan then do the frame rail?


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[grannyknot]

I would start by removing the pedal box, console, steering wheel ... then all the stock sound deadening and any fiber glass that was added so you can clearly see  where the rust starts.  Cutting the rust out of the floor pan first allows you to keep the rigidity of the frame rail until the floor is repaired, the rail under the floor pan is pretty easy to remove but if you can save the angled part of the rail that is visible in your pic then do so. That part of the frame is complicated and difficult to replicate as it ties together several areas. 

[gotham22]

Thanks Grannyknot!

[gotham22]

A little more progress today.  Think I am going to replace the entire frame rail.  Where is the best place for a jack stand if I am removing the frame rail.  Right now it is on the rail.

[grannyknot]

Ideally the car would be stripped to the shell and you would be in a shop with a proper frame jig that would prevent any movement of the other components as you cut out that major support.  Since  you are working on your driveway you'll want to spread that load out equally to many support points so that the dimensions of the uni body don't change. Screw jacks are good for this kind of job, you could also use off cuts from building lumber with wedges.

Is the engine still in the car? You will have to be careful to support all the weight of the engine, the body could twist easily once that rail is cut out, maybe use an engine hoist/cherry picker to take the weight of the engine from above.

 

Edit- gotham22, I just went through all of your photos again and your car really is on the balancing point between parting it out and major surgery. It can be saved but it will be extensive.

My advice if you want to go ahead is strip this car down to the shell, not only so you can find all the rust that hasn't been discovered yet but also to take the weight off the frame. No half measures.

Edited July 7, 2018 by grannyknot