gotham22

Rust Advice 78 280z

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    I buy steel from a local family owned shop. They will cut, brake, drill and shear for reasonable prices

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    FInally good news!!  I did  a compression  test this morning and all 6 cylinders read 160. Whew! time to start preparing for the engine to come out...

     

     

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    Haven’t update this thread in awhile but I was able to get some work done. Started removing engine parts to pull the engine. Radiator, fan, canister, alternator and starter are all out. Along with other bits and pieces.

    Two things I am dealing with now. When trying to remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold two of the three bolts broke. Do you guys know of a what to fix this? Is it fixable?

    Second thing, when I am not working on the car I have to covered using a cover craft car cover. We have had some pretty heavy rains here the past week. When I removed the car cover and opened the passenger door there was about an inch of water sitting directly under where the seat would be. Any idea where that could be leaking from? I know the car covers are not water proof but that seems like a lot of water and has me kind of stumped


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    Never attempt to remove rusted hardware without heating it first, a plumbers torch and mapp gas do a good job dirt cheap.

    Now that they are broken,,, remove the manifold (torch), inspect the damage, if there is a nub to grab on then use vise grips and torch, if there is nothing to grab on then you will have to drill them out and use a easy out, if that doesn't work then drill it entirely and tap it for 8x1.25mm

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    2 hours ago, gotham22 said:

    Second thing, when I am not working on the car I have to covered using a cover craft car cover. We have had some pretty heavy rains here the past week. When I removed the car cover and opened the passenger door there was about an inch of water sitting directly under where the seat would be. Any idea where that could be leaking from? I know the car covers are not water proof but that seems like a lot of water and has me kind of stumped

    Angle of the car plays a factor.  Water just flows downhill.

    You said that you opened the passenger door but didn't say that the water was only under the passenger seat.  Anyway, my car had a leaky windshield seal.  It leaked in to the channel between the window and the seal from the outside, then flowed to other spots and leaked back out on the inside.  I realized what was happening when I saw water beading up at the inside corner of the seal and leaking in when I cornered.

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    Tzagi1 - thanks for the help. I did use on blaster and heat and they still broke.

    As for the water that was the only place I found the water. But as you said it flows downhill. I guess I could get in the car while someone hoses it down to see where the water is coming in from




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    Hey guys, I am ready to pull the engine.  it is fully detached.  I have a lift bracket on the front passenger side but do not know where to connect the leveler to on the drivers side.  I read a lot of post about a bolt hole towards the firewall but I don't see it.  I see what looks like a hole where a bolt goes but it is not threaded and nothing can be attached there.  See pic.    So where can I attach the leveler to that will be string enough?

    liftPoint3.jpg

    liftPoint1.jpg

    liftPoint2.jpg

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    There should be a bolt with a hanger on it there.  Looks like your bolt broke off or something worse.

    You could use a transmission bolt.  Same area, about the same balance.

    image.png

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    If extracting the broken bolt wont work (or the threads are gone beyond repair) here is a trick:

    Drill the bolt with a 7/16 bit, tap it in 1/4 npt, get a solid pipe plug from lows ect (the kind that is fastened with an allen key)

    Now insert the plug, if its not flush with the head use a side grinder to make it flush with the head. now all that is left is to drill and tap it in 8mm.

    Works great if you don't have a time sert kit.

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    thanks for the help. Looks like I will use the bell housing bolt for this.  There is no sign of a bolt or threads on the manifold anymore. 

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    The threads are in the head.  A stud or a bolt would be there, but they often break off.  Your worst case would be that somebody broke the casting in the head.  You'll know when you get it apart and get a better look.

    Good luck.  Go slow and check those odd things that don't get disconnected, like the throttle linkage grannyknot mentioned, or the speedo cable.  Brake booster vacuum hose, etc.

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    Just read the whole topic... Good luck to you, though I am more of a novice than you are ^_^

    Gave me hope that I can actually find a semi rusted Z and still fix it myself.

    Looking forward to what's gonna happen 🤞

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    Thanks lordkarma88.  I have never worked on cars before so this is all new to me.  Have to say though I am learning a lot and having fun while doing it. 

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    This weekend I am pulling the engine out of the car!  Got a chain connected to the bell housing.  Just ran out of time.  Question - while the engine is out what are some of the "must-do's" that I should be thinking about.  I am assuming now that I have unlimited access I should be swapping certain parts - i.e clutch

     

     

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    1 hour ago, gotham22 said:

    while the engine is out what are some of the "must-do's" that I should be thinking about. 

    Degrease, scrape, clean all the areas you can't normally get to, with any rust in the front rails now is the time. Also nice to roll the engine out on the driveway, hose it down, get a can of engine cleaner and go to town. If it is not a full teardown of the car now is a good time to unwrap the wiring harness, clean or replace connectors especially grounds and repair any hacks. At least have a look at the clutch, someone may have already replaced it, it's good to replace the output shaft seal at the back of the transmission, most of them have tens of thousands of miles on them. check ujoints on driveshaft, replace steering rack bushings...

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    Thanks grannyknot! It is not a full tear down but my goal is to have the engine be as reliable as possible. I already know I need to rewire efi injector plugs as mine are brittle and falling apart. Will keep an eye out for other bad connectors or just worn parts in general.


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    2 hours ago, gotham22 said:

    I already know I need to rewire efi injector plugs as mine are brittle and falling apart.

    Yes, mine were so brittle they were crumbling as I pulled them off, I got this tip off of @240260280 head to a pick and pull auto yard, look for Audi and VW cars, they have connectors that fit our injectors. I got these from two Pasats 2000-2008 4 cylinder, I removed the 4 th injector plug and grafted them into the harness, think I paid $10, that Pasat also has the same plugs to fit all of the other sensors.

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