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Elliott000

Where to go with this rusthole

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Any opinion on por 15 metal prep. Can't get Eastwood stuff in Canada, that fast etch would be perfect and I'm Leary of oiling the metal just for the same reasons of what if I don't get it all in crevaces and such. We have por 15 prep tho and it sounds like it does a similar deal.

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Any opinion on por 15 metal prep. Can't get Eastwood stuff in Canada, that fast etch would be perfect and I'm Leary of oiling the metal just for the same reasons of what if I don't get it all in crevaces and such. We have por 15 prep tho and it sounds like it does a similar deal.

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I have used the POR prep and it is a good product. I order Eastwood products online no problem. You can also get some Eastwood products at KMS Tools in Canada.
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How far does one go with corrosion.... There's a spot in the l rear door glass area that has slight pitting but not rotten id rather not cut into it. There's a couple areas of the door jamb that are for sure coming out but is pitting a huge deal? See attached pics. It's obvious which one I'll be cutting out.

Another question on my mind and it's more less fear based haha, should I strip ALL the paint and skim coats of any previous bondo?? I'm nervous about skim coating around the rear hatch/roof line so many curves and angles in there and I've never done any real body finishing before.... You can see a few dents around the tail light area but the rest of the painted stuff is mint I can tell from back side. Should I strip it and then she just needs epoxy and a hi build primer or does that are actually get a skim of plastic and worked? Thanks guys. Getting exciting over here. I almost have passé fer side done! Well, still need front fenders but that doesn't count! 20181111_105047.jpeg20181111_105130.jpeg20181111_105121.jpeg

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3 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

How far does one go with corrosion.

 Go as far as you are comfortable with it.   I think I previously said the doglegs were the worst area on these cars to fix, I was wrong, the worst place is the A pillars. There is just no room to work, all you can do is drill the spot welds and try to open it up, or cut it out and replace with an A pillar from a donor.

If you take it down to bare metal there is a good chance you can correct a lot of the dent with hammer and dolly,  many body shops won't go to that trouble and just mud it up and sand. But sometimes I've removed all filler to find the previous guy did a good job filling and now I have to re-do the same job he did.  If there is thick bondo you know there are problems there that will need work, if the filler is thin and there was no bubbling of the paint before hand then you could leave it. Just seal it with a 2k primer.

Edited by grannyknot
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I have always stripped to bare metal as a point of procedure rather than necessity in every case. Sometimes it is a waste of my effort as the repair was well done, other times I find a problem that would have only gotten worse. Peace of mind is worth it in the long run...

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The little pitting at the quarter window, I wouldn't worry about. Treat it and just skim coat it. As far as leaving previously painted areas, I agree with Grannyknot, what ever your comfortable with. It makes me nervous to leave it. So I strip it. If it's bonded good and no cracking or bubbling it should be good.

That A pillar is a mess. I would send your one but the postage is awful, Zkars might have a donor. A donor makes that repair much easier

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I'm picking a roof up tomorrow. Local guy! I cut the bad piece out. What's the best plan with a donor? Just drill the welds and replace.... Just having a donor I suppose saves me all the bending and screwing around with that curve and drip edge

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I think I would go the drill welds and replace route. I might change my mind if I could see it. More pics might help. Grannyknot likes pictures... LOL

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I'm Gunna grab the roof today aswell as the "wings" for the nose! My wife was in Edmonton and brought me a gift from her dad. Some blocks and guide coat.

Sorry to harass u guys more eh, I appreciate all the assistance for real. Now that I'm almost done this one side I'm still on edge about metal prep and storage. I wanna strip the whole car as mentioned but don't really want to 2k prime it then have to clean the paint off in repair areas and re spray..... Should I just strip prep and spray then cut out and fix whatever is left after? Or buy the por15 prep or similar and trust that coating it leaves on is good to not flash off and rust a bit while I tackle the other side? (I've committed to full paint strip)

Thanks 20181112_101642.jpeg

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 He bought more than one sanding block. Perhaps it's a hint that he wants to help. Yeah, that's it. Everyone likes to sand.
I wish ha, too bad he is 12 hours away!

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Score! Upper bulkhead problem solved, headlight wings solved, a pillar solved. All for the price of 40 bucks! 20181112_161341.jpeg20181112_161404.jpeg

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5 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

I wanna strip the whole car as mentioned but don't really want to 2k prime it then have to clean the paint off in repair areas and re spray..... Should I just strip prep and spray then cut out and fix whatever is left after? Or buy the por15 prep or similar and trust that coating it leaves on is good to not flash off and rust a bit while I tackle the other side? (I've committed to full paint strip)

That is a tough one, depends on how long you think it will take you to get to the last area that needs repair,  you could mask off all the areas that need repair work and 2k prime the rest of the car.

Whoa, just the pics of your score, what a score!

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That is a tough one, depends on how long you think it will take you to get to the last area that needs repair,  you could mask off all the areas that need repair work and 2k prime the rest of the car.
Whoa, just the pics of your score, what a score!
In terms of re painting the fixes. Example lower wheel/quarter. With the epoxy can it be blended into the first coat easily? Know what I mean

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1 hour ago, Elliott000 said:

With the epoxy can it be blended into the first coat easily?

I've only done this once so I may not be the best person to ask but here is what I did, the area I was working on had been primed with 2k primer and I decided to improve a welded patch, I sanded the area down to metal again, repaired the patch, cleaned it well and mixed up a small batch of 2k primer. Sprayed the bare metal area with a heavy coat, let it flash off and did a 2nd heavy coat 2-3 ft all around the repair, after it cured it was blocked out until it was smooth. Maybe it was beginners luck but it worked okay for me.

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Good score on the parts!

What ever you lay on bare metal, will not be your final primer (etch primer or epoxy primer). There should be a filler primer laid down after sealing then blocked out. If you paint in sections, your high build aught to take care of any overlapping epoxy paint. Epoxy is not know for it great sanding qualities. It's hard! and hard to sand, that is the way it is supposed to be.

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Good to hear patcon and everyone. I think im gunna polish off the metal work on the passenger side, etch it and the roof then epoxy er up! I'll spin the car around and focus on the driver side for a few months after that. Last night I couldn't wait so I started in on drilling out the Weldon the peices I got. Today I'll line things up and start fitting them. Paying close attention to forward back so the hood isn't wonky! received_578150265955157.jpeg

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Hey Elliott000:  What did you end up using for the piece between the outter dogleg and the seatbelt screw hole?  That's where I am now Andre I'm considering. My options.  See pics.  Anybody have a best practice here?  Thanks!!

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Hey Elliott000:  What did you end up using for the piece between the outter dogleg and the seatbelt screw hole?  That's where I am now Andre I'm considering. My options.  See pics.  Anybody have a best practice here?  Thanks!!
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Hey jughead, I basically did what you have done and cut back to good metal. I cut a straight line accross as high up as I could and just used a hand hammered peice of sheet metal to recreate that layer. It wasn't the prettiest bit it maintains that inner structure so I'm satisfied! Only really needed some hammering while welding at the bottom beck side where it had some shape. Can't find any pics of it.

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On another note I spent some time stripping tonight. Any suggestions for the roof. The attached pic was attacked by the previous owner not my work. But, I've been using a wire wheel and I don't like pushing on that roof, shes too tiny to lean on it. What the next best thing? Just a sanding disc, like a surfacer/scotchbrite style if u k ow what I mean... Pretty pumped the window and entire rear hatch recesses are mint and no rust whatsoever. It would appear this thing has seen 5 colours haha. I'm happy I decided to strip it fully. The thick paint job actually removes a lot of pop on the factory lines! 20181117_220002.jpeg20181117_220156.jpeg20181117_215857.jpeg20181117_215846.jpeg20181117_215917.jpeg

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Man, you are making good progress and your shop is so clean!  You could try a a razor blade and a heat gun or since you are going down to bare metal a chemical stripper. Once you get that last 1/3rd of the roof done you could switch to a long board to find out where you stand with the highs and lows of the roof panel, side to side, front to back, corner to corner.

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