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duffymahoney

Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

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Got hub parts back from the plater and a new to me series 1 coin tray.  One tiny tiny crack around the screw hole.  Excited since mine was terrible.  Gosh I love zinc:)!

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I found a great deal on some ztheraphy carbs from the same year series 1.  So I jumped on it, I will do the euro style balance tube and have the intakes polished to match and re-zinc everything.  Should look great.  I will remove mine and put them away for safe keeping.  If I ever sell it I want the owner to be able to go back to stock if he or she wanted.    

 

I also got a type 4 mikuni 44.  It's in amazing conditon.  I am going to try and piece a set together.  Or am i just hoarding carbs?:)

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Not really an update, still waiting on bearings to be pressed in.  But I got a NOS service manual.  I decided on 1970 since mine is a series 1 1/71 build.  It's so cool. Goes nicely with my other manuals.

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Valuable asset to compliment your classic Series I 240Z.   I also have the original manuals but my set does not have the "1970" on the engine chassis and body book   The engine book is stamped on front cover " BRE 137 Oregon El Segundo Calif"   I may have purchased these factory manuals from them back in 1971.

Unique is the translation from Japanese to English is rather crude in some paragraphs.   Always caused me to chuckle even though I only speak one language.

 

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Collection of carbs is growing.  2 more.  40 and 44.  Both missing a lot of smalls.  I probably overpaid, but hey I am having fun! All are in amazing condition.  These haven't been used since the 80s. The insides look never used. Also got a hilarious dcoe intake for a chevy.  

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Finally got my front and rears back from having bearings pressed in. Gosh I love zinc and powder coating. Anyone have a secret for the front hubs. Snug then back out then snug again? Torque?

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They are going on.  I am using this method from

 

Bill Morgan Fronts should be snugged to 18.1-21.7 ft-lb (2.5-3.0 kg-m) while turning the hub, then back off the nut 60° to align with a cotter pin hole. Starting torque should be 3.47-7.37 in-lb (4.0-8.5 kg-cm).

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Got the rears installed, took a lot longer to do than expected.  Spindle pins are directional, learned that the hard way.  Also used a thin metal putty knife to slip the hub into the arms.  The tolerances are very tight. Grease, time and some learning and it went on.  

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6 minutes ago, Jaymanbikes said:


Where did you get the center caps for your wheels? I have Koenig’s and would like a red center cap. I purchased some Watanabe’s but they are way too small.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Want to sell the wat caps? Those are the stock rota caps with custom stickers. They are actually rogue squadron logos from Star Wars. 

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I got my extra intake back from ztherapy. I went with the euro style balance tube. They look great. I think i will have the heat shield ceramic coated in black or maybe silver. Now to decide on them or my collection mikunis. I have some sort of Japanese carb addiction.

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I got all brake lines attached and ready. Also got the ebrake working. Pretty productive sat morning. Now time to bleed them. 

 

Think I should put the line on the other side of the ebrake? It should travel together. 

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Hmmm... They should sorta travel together, but I think I'd put the brake hose on the other side. I just don't like the looks of the brake line looped around anything.

Have you made up your mind on the carbs yet?   ;)

 

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So you're saying you can't get that brake line installed unless you loop it under the parking brake cable? Can't you rotate the banjo connection to another position that would put the line in a better location? I know that many calipers have cast in features that help prevent the banjo from spinning while you turn the bolt... If your caliper has that feature, maybe you could cut one or more of the tabs off?

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1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

So you're saying you can't get that brake line installed unless you loop it under the parking brake cable? Can't you rotate the banjo connection to another position that would put the line in a better location? I know that many calipers have cast in features that help prevent the banjo from spinning while you turn the bolt... If your caliper has that feature, maybe you could cut one or more of the tabs off?

Looks like silvermine runs the cable over the ebrake. I just thought it would have been too tight of a turn in the line. 

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