Jump to content
duffymahoney

Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

Recommended Posts

Diesel Stroker crank. Extra offset ground for toyota rods. I will have full details tomorrow. I had the work done at marine crank. 

9B1CAC16-75FB-49F6-B2FD-1466111C68EB.jpeg

439FBA09-8214-40BF-BDC5-0B3B219031FC.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stroker Diesel crank is back from marine crankshaft! 

Offset ground to 84.6mm
Toyota rod ends 1.8896”
Ground main journals to -020”
Dynamic balance 
Ion plasma nitride, straighten and micro polished.

81C8FC3B-A9EB-44D4-8C8B-DE0FF4EF3EF0.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m not going to rattle can my new stroker block.  So I need a color code off something. 
 

The alternator bracket seemed like the best choice for still have original paint and be something I can easily take off. I found another that was plated to replace it. This is the last grimy thing on my original motor. 
 

 I will have a ppg shop scan it next week. It’s darker blue then I would have guessed. 

6C342907-C756-4CA2-B8BB-CDD8AE87F3DE.jpeg

CC7EEB41-6F3C-41D3-8CA3-91D9B8537DE1.jpeg

ADE41B7C-6D7C-4101-9546-5D46855A29D0.jpeg

5ADC0D08-3004-4375-99F9-AFEF830ED01D.jpeg

Edited by duffymahoney

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ITB with IAC and pcv here I come. 

Which mount looks better. Stock coil mount or the rubber one? Rubber one looks lower profile.

01B24944-6DD3-4C27-A2FE-F778777CBF0B.jpeg

4E9D77E3-C41C-469D-B38B-FB6B87B43996.jpeg

C8139A84-CA21-4A66-BD95-75C693A6CA29.jpeg

273F3B54-B4E3-4870-9A7F-134DEED54F1E.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I got pretty far on the intake. I figured out my basic plan. I also tig welded the old holes and drilled and tapped new ones. So they are centered better. 
 

I tapped all existing holes for npt plugs. I also drilled each runner to 9mm. I bought a bspt 1/4 for the stock pcv fitting. Also a 5/8 hose Barb by 3/8 npt brass for the iac. 
 

I also had my stacks turned down to fit some cheap filters. Brass or no brass? 

 

 

B41ADF46-0AB4-4003-AACD-FB07BCFAA427.jpeg

AFFC82E9-A0CA-4B1F-BBCF-0DB071BC1425.jpeg

BAD2A0E1-E33A-4A5C-9BF9-686955538325.jpeg

78253951-86D3-4641-B242-BE730447C527.jpeg

E24890EF-06A4-49F2-85A4-F775114ACA29.jpeg

38B38916-1DA1-4F27-BB45-7B3AB878C6E1.jpeg

FFF6531A-0967-486A-8872-D386811B5110.jpeg

8DAAA81B-424B-48E9-BC8B-75E8B29D715E.jpeg

ABF7A60E-5F0A-4941-A88C-B497EB520C5A.jpeg

3DC18CB1-CB42-470E-A9CA-A1647131B4A8.jpeg

E055B967-2F65-4043-9691-A1DAFE78F3C0.jpeg

Edited by duffymahoney

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My decision on iac location.  I can use the stock 12v + from the coil and also the coil negative wiring for the iac connected to my haltech. So wiring will stay the same. 

019FEC47-DE18-43A5-A77B-CEE979CFEB15.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
My decision on iac location.  I can use the stock 12v + from the coil and also the coil negative wiring for the iac connected to my haltech. So wiring will stay the same. 
019FEC47-DE18-43A5-A77B-CEE979CFEB15.thumb.jpeg.66a4206b2d1550f22bd4143ec50527ce.jpeg

Why don’t you live near me?? We have so much in common...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well ITB with IAC and PCV is all in and plumbed. Only thing left is 2 wires and some software changes. Pretty happy with how it all turned out. 

D92190EB-8FE7-48AE-B439-D5EE6A4430DF.jpeg

55370482-BF9E-4088-AA44-2AAA7BFD11E6.jpeg

798940AC-5886-452D-9CD1-769E8A6B9E47.jpeg

0832BDDB-D405-421F-8435-C5EB45386CF8.jpeg

870E8915-6498-4E0E-87EA-E09B4D8C6677.jpeg

EF7D72F6-8340-4CC3-80F1-91A8FD961073.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fully wired. I was able to use the coil wiring and leave original wires intact for my dpo negative trigger and positive. 

3CEE0B24-5D9B-4A7D-AE29-C70AC43CB851.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well this bosch and all bosch IACs of this style let a ton of air by when closed.  Bosch said roughly 30-35%.  Which makes the butterflys useless at idle.  My next iac will be a ford.  Which closes all the way and only lets a tiny bit of air by.  

Edited by duffymahoney

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On 3/25/2020 at 9:21 AM, duffymahoney said:

Well this bosch and all bosch IACs of this style let a ton of air by when closed.  Bosch said roughly 30-35%.  Which makes the butterflys useless at idle.  My next iac will be a ford.  Which closes all the way and only lets a tiny bit of air by.  

Mines a Volkswagen version. Probably gonna have the same issue...
Was yours a three wire? Mine has a pull down resistor to ground to keep it closed.

902388C0-ADD8-47D6-86AA-890BAA65E344.jpeg

Edited by wheee!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the 80s bmw iac is awesome, smaller and nice looking. Let’s no air or minimal amount by when physically closed Now to find out what pin is positive. 

E6023F90-CB58-41F5-87DA-3FBAFF005376.jpeg

3583DCB7-EB8D-476C-BD83-CC8267DA4BC5.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, duffymahoney said:

 Now to find out what pin is positive. 

If there are just two connections and it's a simple spring loaded solenoid valve inside, it really shouldn't matter which pin is which. It should operate the same regardless. But if there's anything else in there (like even a protection diode), polarization would matter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PCV question. This isn’t a debate about the need for a PCV vs a catch can. I want true postive vent. I decided I want to use my exhaust to pull the fumes out, to keep the dirty fumes out of my intake. But since I have Fujitsubo. I have true dual exhaust. Is plumbing to one good enough? Should I still use the stock check valve? I would guess it holds back a tiny bit of pressure before popping open?

My plan was to weld this bung at a 45 just past my o2 bungs on my exhaust. With the stock check valve in line.

91057026_10157359568848985_7028320041208643584_o.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rebuilding my stock oil pump. Really it looks brand new inside. It was the original and still had overspray on it! 

29A41D61-B4ED-481A-8DDD-2B31BC8BC0F0.jpeg

513C49E2-63EA-45FD-8095-C1CF1D8F1406.jpeg

1339F847-D7EF-476B-A709-F37D0D70D231.jpeg

A1F45253-A76E-426E-956B-0B0D27B3C9A7.jpeg

DCAEA10B-BEF6-4DC7-A21D-C70D815AFE1F.jpeg

3FAEBF20-D3C9-4C8A-8A46-1916BD00FE3A.jpeg

DCA79220-6876-4784-9CE7-E9D0CA38A05E.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.