Home Built by Jeff

Home Built Z 'Full video build'

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    When I need to tighten a door gap, I simply add a weld bead to the edge of the door or if more is needed, weld a welding rod to edge of door.   Then, grind it back to the proper gap.   If I need to open a gap, I simply grind back the door edge then weld up the split seam.   Drawback is that removing the skin later will be very difficult.

     

    i reccomend installimg the rear bumper without the over riders.   A nice touch would be to weld up the bumper joints (make them butt joints first) and holes and remove the rubber rub strips.  Then have it all chromed as a single piece.  Nice and clean.

     

    i have the same issue with my hood and will need to replace before repaint.   Mine is pushed far enough down that it hits the grill when opening the hood...I had to bend the top grill bar just slightly.  I found this out when I replaced the grill with a nice straight unit.

     

    Great work and fun to watch.  Btw, your welds look good to me...I can’t do any better.

    Edited by David F

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    7 hours ago, David F said:

    When I need to tighten a door gap, I simply add a weld bead to the edge of the door or if more is needed, weld a welding rod to edge of door.   Then, grind it back to the proper gap.   If I need to open a gap, I simply grind back the door edge then weld up the split seam.   Drawback is that removing the skin later will be very difficult.

     

    i reccomend imstallimg the rear bumper without the over riders.   A nice touch would be to weld up the bumper joints (make them butt joints first) and holes and remove the rubber rub strips.  Then have it all chromed as a single piece.  Nice and clean.

     

    i have the same issue with my hood and will need to replace before repaint.   Mine is pushed far enough down that it hits the grill when opening the hood...I had to bend the top grill bar just slightly.  I found this out when I replaced the grill with a nice straight unit.

    That is a good tip with the door gap, although want to get the most out of adjustment first of course.

    I am now actually planning on welding the bumper to one piece, and we were lucky enough to not have over riders in Aus. I won't be chroming it though, as that is not something I can do myself ;) 

    I can't even fit a grill at all at the moment with the bonnet the way it is, but I will cut it and see what I can do.

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    3 hours ago, 240260280 said:

    Here is how the pros fake the gap.  Bondo and parallel blade.

     

    Haha, here is one I did on my 911 ;)

     

    Edited by Home Built by Jeff
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    Nice work Jeff! Did you support the lower rad support while jacking the nacelles up? I would be concerned you may have changed the geometry of the lower rad support.

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    5 hours ago, wheee! said:

    Nice work Jeff! Did you support the lower rad support while jacking the nacelles up? I would be concerned you may have changed the geometry of the lower rad support.

    I probably should have, but the lower support panel is many times stronger than those front wings, so I wasn't overly concerned.

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    Nice work as usual Jeff. I’m particularly impressed with the panel tensioning on the hatch. I have yet to tackle my hatch and I’m sure it will need similar love.
    I haven’t seen your Porsche build but do you lay down a sealing coat after all body work is complete?

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    Jeff,

    I had a couple of questions on your paint booth. If I heard right, you are pressurizing your booth? I also believe you had another video for building the booth for the Porsche, maybe a link. Are you blowing both fans in or just one in and one out? Did you have very much trash in the Porsche paint?

    My booth right now is setup with negative pressure and I get a fair amount of trash in my paint. One reason is a soft sided booth tends to shed trash when they billow. So I like the idea of positive pressure in the booth. just trying to get some feedback so I can figure out how to redesign my booth.

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    1 hour ago, wheee! said:

    Nice work as usual Jeff. I’m particularly impressed with the panel tensioning on the hatch. I have yet to tackle my hatch and I’m sure it will need similar love.
    I haven’t seen your Porsche build but do you lay down a sealing coat after all body work is complete?

    No, I didn't lay down an epoxy on the 911 before paint. It was always stressed, that bog has to go onto bare metal. It is only a more recent change with the new paint technology, that you can put bog over the new epoxy primers.

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    30 minutes ago, Patcon said:

    Jeff,

    I had a couple of questions on your paint booth. If I heard right, you are pressurizing your booth? I also believe you had another video for building the booth for the Porsche, maybe a link. Are you blowing both fans in or just one in and one out? Did you have very much trash in the Porsche paint?

    My booth right now is setup with negative pressure and I get a fair amount of trash in my paint. One reason is a soft sided booth tends to shed trash when they billow. So I like the idea of positive pressure in the booth. just trying to get some feedback so I can figure out how to redesign my booth.

    Watch both of my how to build a spray booth videos. In the first one I just had a negative pressure fan, like most professional booths. The issue is, that they are properly sealed, rigid units, so it works well. In my second video, I get another identical fan and have one pushing in through a filter and one sucking out. The fans work better at pushing than pulling, which makes the booth positive pressure. There are a heap of benefits to positive pressure in this situation. For starters, the sides push out which gives you heaps more space to work. The biggest benefit though, is that it is always pushing any dust out. As it is a tent, it is not completely sealed, and if it is negative, dust will get in where ever it can.

    My 911's paint is a little dry in a couple of spots, where my painting skills fell down, but there is basically no dust in it at all. It is better than half of the professional booths I have worked in.

     

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    2 hours ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

    No, I didn't lay down an epoxy on the 911 before paint. It was always stressed, that bog has to go onto bare metal. It is only a more recent change with the new paint technology, that you can put bog over the new epoxy primers.

    I too have an epoxy primer base, followed by the body filler, then a sealing coat of epoxy on top of that. The body shop recommended this as a way to prevent any off-gassing of the fillers through the top coat. I also am using the water based paints for top coat and so far I like them a lot! Very consistent and easy to work with.

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    Like most others I too didn't realize you were here. Very nice work and lots of room to get it done BTW. But I am curious, when do you find time to go to an actual JOB or is it not a necessity where you are? You have a bunch of cool stuff going on and seemingly plenty of time on yourr hands! We should all be so fortunate. Maybe someday down the road I will be able to put my hands on a nice TARGA. I always liked that one. Keep up the good work and DEFINITELY KEEP MOMMA AROUND! She is what got my attention initially but like always cars prevail!:D

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    7 minutes ago, esmit208 said:

    Like most others I too didn't realize you were here. Very nice work and lots of room to get it done BTW. But I am curious, when do you find time to go to an actual JOB or is it not a necessity where you are? You have a bunch of cool stuff going on and seemingly plenty of time on yourr hands! We should all be so fortunate. Maybe someday down the road I will be able to put my hands on a nice TARGA. I always liked that one. Keep up the good work and DEFINITELY KEEP MOMMA AROUND! She is what got my attention initially but like always cars prevail!:D

    Haha, I am a Firefighter, so I work 24hour shifts on strange days. That gives me a bunch of days at home when everyone else is at work, to work on my cars ;) 

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    1 hour ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

    Haha, I am a Firefighter, so I work 24hour shifts on strange days. That gives me a bunch of days at home when everyone else is at work, to work on my cars ;) 

    I thought you might be when I saw your pants with the reflective strips.

    By the way Jeff, love the new bug. I have a "one owner" 56 bug my dag bought new in Germany waiting for it's turn. Next in line after the Z currently on the rotisserie...

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    Jeff, somehow I missed this thread, but YouTube's algorithm picked up the slack and your videos popped up in my feed a few days ago, and I've been following along since. Great work and great videos.

    Oh, I spent nine years as a firefighter as well!

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    Really good progress Jeff! What type of rattle can primer are you spraying over the weld repairs on the rear quarters? Sandable, zinc phosphate, self etching?

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    On 1/20/2018 at 7:53 PM, 240260280 said:

    Here is how the pros fake the gap.  Bondo and parallel blade.

     

    bondo is not how the pros do it.  Pro's do it with metal.

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    6 hours ago, wheee! said:

    Really good progress Jeff! What type of rattle can primer are you spraying over the weld repairs on the rear quarters? Sandable, zinc phosphate, self etching?

    It is just a zinc based primer to protect the bare metal until I am ready to paint it properly.

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