Is it this one? - http://www.daytona-sensors.com/tcs-1--timing-control-system.html

Looks like it doesn't actually have its own ignition (coil current control) module.  And it requires a VR or optical input.  What kind of distributor did you start with?  And what ignition module are you using to control coil current?  Looks interesting, but not clear that it's their fault it didn't work.

http://nebula.wsimg.com/7d1431ada7cf5b57349f7457275d1d1a?AccessKeyId=1C3246E298A5DEFACC7D&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 4:22 PM, Zed Head said:

Is it this one? - http://www.daytona-sensors.com/tcs-1--timing-control-system.html

Looks like it doesn't actually have its own ignition (coil current control) module.  And it requires a VR or optical input.  What kind of distributor did you start with?  And what ignition module are you using to control coil current?  Looks interesting, but not clear that it's their fault it didn't work.

http://nebula.wsimg.com/7d1431ada7cf5b57349f7457275d1d1a?AccessKeyId=1C3246E298A5DEFACC7D&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

Sorry that the post I posted wasn't clear. The full system is using a pertronix module inside a 240z dizzy, signal triggers the module and then the output signal fires the MSD. The problem that I have now is that the module itself will not load any new timing map. There's something wrong with the EEPROM which writes all the maps. The unit can trigger just fine. I ran the car using the timing map I uploaded before the unit starts acting up. Now it's just the matter of waiting. Perhaps I can use the locked timing now and have the carbs dialed. The car was not running happy when I tried to run it.

Update! I set the timing at 20 and tried to sync the carbs. It looks like I'm only running on one. The car would start, rev high on its own, then die. The front dome raise halfway while idle, but the rear would raise very little. Mixture nuts have been checked. Balance and opener screw are backed, the butterfly valve open screws are backed. The only thing I can think of is float level. Any input is welcome. I want to dial the carbs while I'm waiting on the timing module to be checked.


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Don't forget about the screen filter before the carburetor.

Don't forget about the screen filter before the carburetor.

You mean the fuel filter? Or the air filter? I don't have air filters on and I have a malpassi regulator in place of the filter


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There should be a screen filter on the fuel lines at the carburetors.

Inside the banjo bolts right at the float bowl

Inside the banjo bolts right at the float bowl

I'm sure those are good. The float bowl is getting fuel just fine.


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RS02, in post 51 you question your float level, but now you say you're sure the bowls are fine.  The two are closely related - if the banjo filters are caked with corrosion and fine particles (like mine were), your float level will not be correct during operation because the fuel flow could be very restricted.  

Edited May 6, 20179 yr by Rob1972

RS02, in post 51 you question your float level, but now you say you're sure the bowls are fine.  The two are closely related - if the banjo filters are caked with corrosion and fine particles (like mine were), your float level will not be correct during operation because the fuel flow could be very restricted.  

I see what you mean. I will check it for sure. But the car ran for over 20 mins when I cranked the rev to 2000 to break in the cam. That's why I said I think they're fine. I bought these from a guy in hybridZ and he just had it rebuilt and honed by Rebello. I'm thinking it might just be the fuel level and carb balance issue. I eyeballed the float level on the rear carb by turning the jet down 10 turns. It didn't die on me this time. My float bowl sight glass is on the way and I'll get it exact. High idle is still an issue that I need to take care of.


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Threw some engine paint on the wheel... I will stain it tomorrow.


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Steering wheel is finished！


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