1981 280zx 5 speed

[Dave WM]

I will get a pic of my "clip buster" tool saved (well lets say clip convincer, since it certainly was not going to bust) me from certain madness.

Edited April 17, 2016 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

If anyone has one handy, could you pls measure the length of the shifter return spring (just the spring). The reason I ask is I noticed before taking it apart that the shifter felt a little soft on the return (from say the 5/rev neutral point), at least compared to the 4sp. This is the spring has a plunger  and is mounted on the side of the rear extension up near the shifter.

[EuroDat]

Do you mean part 26 in the selector diagram (see screen shot) part nr. 32852-24901 from carpartsmanual.I have an old one somewhere, but I don't think that will tell you much.

I would buy a new one. I mentioned it in post 5. Changing all the detent springs and selector bushings will improve shifting and at a cost of about $10 worth every penny. Its easy now the tranny is out of the car.

They are all listed in the file I posted under the section Transmission selector control. The spring you want will cost about $1.35. http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-spring-return~32852-24901.html?Make=Nissan&Model=280ZX&Year=1982&Submodel=&Filter=()

 

[Dave WM]

Yes that is the one, I tried to order when I got the other parts, but was told it was NLA.

[EuroDat]

I just tried it at Courtesy nissan and they list it as Discontinued parts, no longer available. If they don't have it, thats bad news.

If the selector feels weak and slow to return to centre position, its generally the springs that cause it. Changing all those selector springs makes the selector movement a lot better.

My 71C option is looking better and better.

[Dave WM]

Maybe sourcing a spring would be possible if the specs were known. There is a surplus store near me (sky craft in Orlando Fl) they have a LOT of misc hardware. I may stop by and see what's there. Bring my  old spring and see how close a match (maybe a little taller and/or a little more spring).

[Zed Head]

You might try preloading the spring with a shim.  The 5 speed currently in my car has the same problem.

[Dave WM]

I was reading my messages before I saw your post about the preload. I will play with it a bit, and also look for another spring.

[Dave WM]

here is a pic of my custom made snap ring puller, works even if you have managed to break a prior tool and left a metal tooth stuck in the holes of the snap ring. I had to use both hands to pull the plier handles apart and when I got them open just a bit I had a help wedge a chisel blade into the jaws of the pliers holding them open then I could more easily work the tool and pull back extracting the snap ring.

I also included a pic of spring #26 it the diagram that Eurodat posted up, with a ruler, 1.5 inches and VERY stiff (very painful to fingers to get it to collapse approx. 1/8 inch (I know not a very scientific measure, but I don't really have a scale that I think I can get an accurate reading on).

[Dave WM]

12 hours ago, EuroDat said:

one more question, part 25 has a hole in it, can someone tell me the orientation? there is a horz dividing bar does the hole belong on the top or the bottom of the divider (it can go either way).

 

 

[Zed Head]

I think that's a drain hole for oil.  So bottom would be proper in that case.

I measured 39.1 mm for that spring.  1.54 inches.The screw, #27, has a nice divot inside for a ball bearing if you wanted to try the preloading.  I think that the original design is just meant for easy shifting.  I'm going to try a preload if I can get mine out next time I'm under the car.  It will put more pressure on #25, which sits on a ramp on the shaft.  Should center itself more forcefully.

[Dave WM]

I will play with it when I get it back together and report back if I can improve. I went back and searched on shifter return springs and saw that this has been covered.

Edited April 18, 2016 by Dave WM