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Murph

Major structural rust problem! HELP!

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Good luck with your quote/...

i live on the gold coast. A good 2 or 3 hour drive up there but the fact that I can relate to you (student, no money) and you being ripped -off means I dont mind the drive.

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Two or three hours drive.....I wish! :)

I'm in Townsville.....try 15hours! Make that 16 from GC.

Maybe I can I can send you on a drive to the prev owners house at burleigh heads. ;)

Jokes...

Thanks for the offer anyway. :)

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ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhahahah

damnit, I always get Townsville and Toowoomba mixed up :stupid: :stupid:

Tell you what, we'll meet half way. How about Brisbane? ROFL ROFL ROFL

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Since my -right rail is broken

-the left is fairly dented and looks like it's had a section cut out and rewelded at some starge,

-the floor pan has some little rust holes and a whole bunch of gouged holes and is dented as

I was thinking about the possibility of having both rails and the whole floor pan replaced in one hit.

We're talking AU$550 a rail (gonna see if I can have them fabricated cheaper locally) and AU$140 a side for the floor pan, then labour on top of that.

Wouldn't it be a hell of a lot easier to just cut the whole bloody lot out, then weld in all new items. It would save alot of hastle

-making sure all the sound deadener is removed and the floor is perfectly clean

-removing the old rail from the floor

-straightening the floor

-removing rust from floor and welding in new metal

Say if I were to have stripped the interior so it goes to the body shop with a bare floor ready to go, it couldn't be that expensive could it?

Or am I just deaming?

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Speak with your bodyshop & see what they say about doing the whole lot in one hit.

BTW - I've seen plenty of people deal with plenty worse on other cars (imported Mustangs, etc).

Once you get this sorted, you will never have floor/rail rust problems again.

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Just got the digital camera back.....

New pics at

http://users.bigpond.net.au/oceanz/z/zrooted2/

1. Behind the right front wheel, now with alot of deadener stripped back. You can see the metal is mostly good, but it is fairly bent just above the break.

2. Here you can see how smacked up the bottom of the right rail behind the rear break is. Also the dings and gouges in the floor pan. Again, not much rust in the floor.

3. Another view.

4. Note the rectangular section of the floor and rail (your looking at the rear of the right rail) that looks like it's been cut out and welded again? What's it supposed to look like here?

5. Behind the left hand front wheel. The rail is not broken here, however it and the floor have been smacked up too. Note there is some bending in the metal above the rail.

6. Some rust holes just below the firewall.

7. Rear of the left rail. Again a section has been removed and possibly a new section welded in. What should this look like? Why have these rear rail sections been cut out?

8. View along the left rail. All smacked in. Sorry bout the $^!# pic.

9. Another view of the left rail.

So what do you all think now?

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Fixable but ugly.

Replace both rails & floors - they've been badly butchered.

The rust around the battery tray is no big deal at all, but the creases on the drivers side inner guard are not very pretty.

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Not for 100% sure, but the back of it has been butchered a bit

Perhaps just do the 'under-floor' section of the rail (the basic U channel).

That's easy to get to & can be done neatly.

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I'm also thinking about the possibility of finding a good shell and tranfering all the gear from my car to it. Could be alot cheaper than repairing mine. However finding a good shell at a good price probs wont be easy, and it's be a BIG job.

Anyone know of a 260Z 2-seater shell for sale? :)

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In the for what it's worth department:

Yes you have some ugly and nasty work that's been done there before.

Yes it is all repairable.

Yes it will be expensive.

Now, for something completely different.

The ugly and nasty work wasn't done to cheat you. It was probably done by someone in the same situation as you, needing to make repairs and not having the funds to effect the repairs as thoroughly and comprehensively as needed.

The repairs were done on the "absolutely only what MUST be done" basis.

They did it cheaply. But they did effect repairs. That they aren't of the type and extent that you feel should have been done is a moot point as far as what WAS done, and only relevant on what you will do in the future.

What you need to do now, is decide how much money, time and effort you are going to invest into this.

If you can afford BOTH Frame Rails and BOTH Floor Pans (although from what I could see the only questionable part of the floor were those two bolt/fender washers, as in what the heck are those for?) then do so. However, you can get away with simply welding the Right Hand Frame Rail back in place after going to a Frame Shop to have them straighten the tweak out of the frame.

SHOULD it be done to a higher level? Absolutely. Can you afford it? That's yours to answer. But in my opinion, you don't have a MAJOR bunch of nasty stuff that spells death for that car.

If you needed to do the absolute minimum, like I said, just re-weld the Frame Rail that's come off and straighten out or replace the tie-rod.

2¢

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Thanks EScanlon.

Just about to ring a few more restoration/body shops around here, we'll see what sorta quotes I get.

The repair/welding at the rear of the rails would have been done before what happened to the front sections of the rails. At least the repair at the rear was effective. The welding job they did on the broken front rail was quite obviously (when you see the car) only to hold the rail in place. No effort was made to give it any structural integrity.

Looks like my car has quite a history. :)

The bolts and washers coming outa the floor appear to be the way they have attatched my seats!

Very dodgy!

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