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sweatybetty

sweatys rebuild

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3 hours ago, Patcon said:

what if they're not at exactly the right angle????

I don't think they're supposed to be at a right angle. It's more like 30 degrees:
rear%20insignias_zpsmfvqogf0.jpg

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thanks to you all!! as far as emblems, the only ones are on the hood, and maybe the fenders. if you dont know what it is, then bad on you :facepalm:

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On 1/2/2017 at 9:48 PM, Captain Obvious said:

I don't think they're supposed to be at a right angle. It's more like 30 degrees

:P:P

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well, another small step forward today. the rear spoiler is painted. i debated for a couple of weeks between body color and black..........

prepped, primered, smoothed out, ready for color

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and the winner is...............

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this stuff actually works very well for a rattle can. it is a 2 stage paint with a very nice nozzle that sprays a pattern almost like a spray gun. once you activate the catalyst, the paint is only good for about 24 hours. i paid about $23 for the can, but a pint of regular paint would have cost that much. no clean-up of spray gun. i was able to put 4 coats on the spoiler including the bottom.

came out very nice

DSCN0029.JPG

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3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Nice. I've seen catalyzed paint in a can like that at Eastwood (2000K or something like that). I think that technology is really cool.

i think its the same thing, just that eastwood put their own label on it

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23 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Is that 110 Persimmons?  It has the same color change in photos as mine did, one picture looked red the next orange.  Looks great whatever color it is, spoiler too! :beer:

Site, it is called tor-red. one of chryslers colors from the newer cars. im really liking  the red-black

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hood got some color today. a few spots of dust, but otherwise it came out good

inside edges

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inside center masked and ready for bed liner. this hood had been danced on, so every little dent and ding would have shown if i had painted it body color. you can see some of the wave-i-ness (sp?) in the center. the black bed liner has a texture and hides all the imperfections. it should also help to deaden noise

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and the top-side

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Edited by sweatybetty

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another thing that makes a world of difference in noise, you can see it in the 2nd picture, i used body seam sealer in that gap where the black and red meet. it glues the 2 parts together stopping rattles. i also did this inside the doors between the "crash bar" and outer skin. the doors sound very solid now

Edited by sweatybetty

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another thing that makes a world of difference in noise, you can see it in the 2nd picture, i used body seam sealer in that gap where the black and red meet. it glues the 2 parts together stopping rattles. i also did this inside the doors between the "crash bar" and outer skin. the doors sound very solid now


Does that go on top of primer or under it? I've never applied my own and I won't be painting the car myself, so if I can lay it down after I strip the car, great, otherwise I would have to get the car back from the painter to do it or have them do it for me.

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6 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

 


Does that go on top of primer or under it? I've never applied my own and I won't be painting the car myself, so if I can lay it down after I strip the car, great, otherwise I would have to get the car back from the painter to do it or have them do it for me.

either way, as long as the surface is clean. that makes for a good bond. i did it after sandblasting, between the epoxy coat and primer.

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getting a little more color on. here is the hatch after a 2nd coat of clear, and cut and buffed. i am getting quite a bit of dust in the clear coat, so i end up sanding down with 1500 then 2000, then rubbing compound and polishing compound. looks very nice

hatch after sanding, cut and buff

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installed

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passengers door ready for the 2nd coat of clear, which just got sprayed tonight.i should have it cut and buffed tomorrow

DSCN0091.JPG

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5 hours ago, heyitsrama said:

Yo sweaty, where did you get that sick inline coolant temp sender?
 

that is a copper pipe coupling with the brass fittings brazed on. one fitting is for the temperature gauge, and the other controls the electric fans

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The paint work looks great! Cutting and buffing really makes it pop. Lot's of work but the results are outstanding...

You're almost over the hump...all downhill after paint

Edited by Patcon

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On 2/5/2017 at 8:15 AM, sweatybetty said:

that is a copper pipe coupling with the brass fittings brazed on. one fitting is for the temperature gauge, and the other controls the electric fans

I'm looking at some from McMaster-Car, it appears they have them in 1-1/4 in which measured to be close to the hose that Im using in my car. 

Part number 

5520k206 on https://www.mcmaster.com/#solder-joint-tube-couplings/=169agse seems to fit the correct size, but it's only rated to 200*f, the thermostat runs 185, and its technically after the radiator, so it seems that it wont see temps, that high.....
 
Any opinion regarding this?

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56 minutes ago, heyitsrama said:

I'm looking at some from McMaster-Car, it appears they have them in 1-1/4 in which measured to be close to the hose that Im using in my car. 

Part number 

5520k206 on https://www.mcmaster.com/#solder-joint-tube-couplings/=169agse seems to fit the correct size, but it's only rated to 200*f, the thermostat runs 185, and its technically after the radiator, so it seems that it wont see temps, that high.....
 
Any opinion regarding this?

i think the 200 degrees is referring to the solder commonly used for household plumbing. i used silver-solder for mine. i cant recall the melting point, but it is WAY above anything your car will ever see

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