sweatybetty

sweatys rebuild

    Recommended Posts

    new wiring harness finally arrived. i have a feeling im going to get flamed a bit, but while im out driving and you are sitting in the garage trying to figure out electrical problems................

    i first found this place http://kwikwire.com/ when chasing electrical problems on my power wagon. $300 and a few days later, i had a new-like truck. anyhow, here are a few pics

    14 circuits, plenty of wire and every wire is marked to where it goes

    100_1676.JPG

    100_1682.JPG

    100_1683.JPG

    100_1685.JPG

     

     

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    i still have a few things to do, and a couple of things that i forgot, like the power antenna wiring, but everything looks like it should work better than new

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    What did you wrap the wiring with?  It seems like that would be a real pain with the wires already run.  But it's gotta be the best way to get the lengths right.  Very nice.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Very clean, there is a lot to be said for fresh wire and connections. I guess the fuse panel itself is water proof yes?

    If you are not a stickler for originality then there is no downside, just keep the old harness so it stays with the car.

    I just had a look at their website, $300 is a good price, is that a master kill switch under the panel?

    Chris

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    9 hours ago, the_tool_man said:

    What did you wrap the wiring with?  It seems like that would be a real pain with the wires already run.  But it's gotta be the best way to get the lengths right.  Very nice.

    that is plain old electrical tape. easy enough to remove or replace if i need to

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    4 hours ago, grannyknot said:

    Very clean, there is a lot to be said for fresh wire and connections. I guess the fuse panel itself is water proof yes?

    If you are not a stickler for originality then there is no downside, just keep the old harness so it stays with the car.

    I just had a look at their website, $300 is a good price, is that a master kill switch under the panel?

    Chris

    i dont think the fuse box is water proof, but im not too concerned with that where it is. as far as  the old harness, some of it will be cut and spliced to integrate the new with the old which is turning into somewhat of a challenge :angry2:

    it amazes me that these cars even ran with all the extra wires (why run 4 when 7 will work even better) and connectors. no wonder so many owners have problems.

    and, no, there is no kill switch

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    5 hours ago, grannyknot said:

    I just had a look at their website, $300 is a good price, is that a master kill switch under the panel?

     

    The manufacturers web page seems to indicate the switch kill's the coil circuit.

    CoilKillSwitch__63225.1412126299.1280.12

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    looks nice and clean - i like it. 

    on my 78 the majority of problems were at connections - all the various plugs that allow the loom to be split up into sections for install. since you're replacing everything, did you just forego all these connections, or did you use new/refurbished plugs? 

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    9 hours ago, S30Driver said:

    The manufacturers web page seems to indicate the switch kill's the coil circuit.

    CoilKillSwitch__63225.1412126299.1280.12

    my bad. i was thinking another type of kill switch. the one pictured does only kill power to the coil.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    2 hours ago, rossiz said:

    looks nice and clean - i like it. 

    on my 78 the majority of problems were at connections - all the various plugs that allow the loom to be split up into sections for install. since you're replacing everything, did you just forego all these connections, or did you use new/refurbished plugs? 

    i am eliminating as many as possible, although, i think that i will use new ones between the harness and dash so the dash can be unplugged and removed easily if needed.

     

    Edited by sweatybetty

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I would love for you to provide some more details on what it a takes to go this route. If I were doing a car as a driver only I would be interested simply to upgrade the wiring, but since these cars many times switched the ground or had some other oddities I would like to know how hard it is to integrate a new harness to the chassis

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    10 hours ago, rossiz said:

    looks nice and clean - i like it. 

    on my 78 the majority of problems were at connections - all the various plugs that allow the loom to be split up into sections for install. since you're replacing everything, did you just forego all these connections, or did you use new/refurbished plugs? 

    That's been my experience, too.  I have both the Engine and Dash harnesses out of my 70 Z as I work (slowly) through my refresh project.  I bought a couple of special terminal removal tools from Vintage Electric last year for about $10 and I've been using them with great success to pull both the male and female terminals from the plastic connector shells so that I can  do a proper job of removing the tarnish ('oxidation' doesn't really cover it).  Nothing else I tried (including dental picks and an assortment of small screwdrivers) would do the job.  However, the VC terminal extractors only work for the white-shell, multi-pin connectors.  They're of no use for the two big single-conductor, blade connectors in the Dash harness (heavy-gauge White and White-Red primary wires, IIRC).  The brass terminals and the plastic covers for those connections were nicely toasted and the wire strands were oxidized for about 1/4".  Bad grounds are always a worry, too.

    Excepting that in the headlamp pigtails (replaced), my harness wiring (copper and sheathing) seems to be in pretty good shape. 

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    6 hours ago, Patcon said:

    I would love for you to provide some more details on what it a takes to go this route. If I were doing a car as a driver only I would be interested simply to upgrade the wiring, but since these cars many times switched the ground or had some other oddities I would like to know how hard it is to integrate a new harness to the chassis

    i will try to remember to document as much as i can. my problem is i get so deep into it i forget to take pics as i go 

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    ok, here goes. first, i was able to get a new ignition switch and lock cylinder from my local carquest. the key is like the originals, whereas the the others i have seen were not

    100_1694.JPG

    100_1697.JPG

    100_1698.JPG

    replacing the lock is fairly simple. remove the outer trim ring by tapping it from the back with a screwdriver and small hammer. the inner ring takes some prying with a screwdriver and was a little harder, but it needs to come off, it covers the pin that holds

    the cylinder in place. pry the pin out, and the cylinder pulls right out. put the new cylinder in, push the pin back in and re-install the trim rings. i havent done that yet because im going to powder coat them.

    100_1699.JPG

    100_1702.JPG

    here is the wiring plug that attaches to the ignition switch. i moved  some of the wires to different terminals to try to match the new wire colors. you will notice the purple is to the starter solenoid, i have since removed it to avoid drawing too many amps through the switch, and added a relay.

    100_1703.JPG

    100_1704.JPG

    100_1705.JPG

    100_1706.JPG

    100_1707.JPG

    100_1714.JPG

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    here is a new fuse block that is going to be used for some accessories such as the power antenna. i could have bought a harness with more circuits, but that was an extra $75. i think this block was $15+/-. this gets fed from the ignition switch "accessory" wire.

        100_1718.JPG

    100_1719.JPG

    100_1721.JPG

    sorting out the different ignition wires and brake light power. i changed from the original so now the brake lights are not connected with the turn signals. all connections are crimped and have 2 layers of heat shrink tubing over them.

    100_1722.JPG

    here are the new antennae wire, power antennae feed and the control wire from the radio. the black and white wires go to the dome light. what a pita fishing those wires up there was!!100_1723.JPG

     

     

    Edited by sweatybetty

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    these pics are of the fuse holders that will hold auto-reset circuit breakers. one holds a 50 amp fuse that is the main power from the battery. the other feeds the head and tail lights

    100_1727.JPG

    100_1724.JPG

    • Like 4

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    well, i now have the major part of the wiring done, and everything works :D integrating the old and new was the biggest challenge. wipers, turn signals, heater and headlights all work as they should. some more pics

    here are a couple of pics of what is left over of the original harness. look at all those connectors!100_1764.JPG

    100_1775.JPG

    heater, radio,back up lights, e-flasher and neutral switch wiring close

     

    100_1766.JPG

     

    100_1765.JPG

    the back up and neutral switch wiring go through this rubber plug in the trans tunnel. the ground wires are for the wipers. i am going to install a ground stud there so i have

    room for those radio ground wires also

    100_1774.JPG

    under the column. still need to tidy this up. just making sure everything works first. the new harness does not have a fuse for the tail lights, so i had to add an in-line fuse. i cant recall what the other one is for.

    100_1767.JPG

    steering column wiring all hooked up and working.

    100_1768.JPG

    100_1769.JPG

    100_1771.JPG

    main power supply and headlight circuit breakers installed. these are auto reset. the main is a 50amp and the headlights 30amp. about $12 each

    100_1772.JPG

     

     

     

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    i really like the look of those auto-reset fuses - how do they work? do you push a button to reset them after they blow, or do they just cool down and reset themselves - if so, will they keep blowing/resetting if you have a short?

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    On 5/16/2016 at 8:08 PM, sweatybetty said:

    that is plain old electrical tape. easy enough to remove or replace if i need to

    The some types of black electrical tape adhesive will turn to a nasty sticky goo when exposed to some types  of wire insulation, oils and heat.  It may not be a problem here but I have had to repair and clean up that sticky mess before, not fun.  Quality tape is worth the cost.

    Edited by jwtaylor
    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Sweaty, it's very nice work you are doing, your giving me some ideas, but I gotta say, inline fuses?

    Maybe its just me but I always think of inline fuses as a stop gap measure until I can address it properly. You'll never get a better chance to make it right than now. Maybe a small pony fuse panel near by on the upper kick wear the horn relay was. Love those reset beakers.

    Chris

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    22 hours ago, rossiz said:

     do they just cool down and reset themselves - if so, will they keep blowing/resetting if you have a short?

    yes

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    16 hours ago, grannyknot said:

    Sweaty, it's very nice work you are doing, your giving me some ideas, but I gotta say, inline fuses?

    Maybe its just me but I always think of inline fuses as a stop gap measure until I can address it properly. You'll never get a better chance to make it right than now. Maybe a small pony fuse panel near by on the upper kick wear the horn relay was. Love those reset beakers.

    Chris

    the inline fuse is, i think, the best solution since there is no fuse in the main panel except for the headlights, which in turn feeds the parking-tail lights. i could have added another small fuse block but that would put it up under the dash, which is something im trying to avoid. to me, these do what i need, are easily accessible and they have this cool little light that comes on if the fuse blows.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    22 hours ago, jwtaylor said:

    The some types of black electrical tape adhesive will turn to a nasty sticky goo when exposed to some types  of wire insulation, oils and heat.  It may not be a problem here but I have had to repair and clean up that sticky mess before, not fun.  Quality tape is worth the cost.

    i agree. i was able to find good tape locally, but the type the factory uses i would have to order on-line. seems like everything is going that way. order it, pay shipping and then wait. hopefully, i never have to dig into this harness and deal with that stick mess.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now