September 21, 20168 yr Author comment_503605 i hadn't noticed this until yesterday, but it looks like the pistons are right at .5mm out of the hole. this changes things a bit. i took the head in yesterday to have it checked and if everything is good, bigger valves installed. should find out next week. im wondering what he PO had in mind when he had this block rebuilt....... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-503605 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 21, 20168 yr comment_503607 The piston pop-up is normal. About 020", or 0.5mm. The observation crops up here and there, for stock engines. Doesn't seem to be spec'ed out anywhere but many people see it. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-503607 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 21, 20168 yr Author comment_503609 On 9/5/2016 at 8:16 AM, madkaw said: More importantly I would measure deck height of Pistons . Unless they are waaayyyy out of the top of the block I would go with what ever cam you want. I'd say with reliefs you could go 550+ Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club what is waaayyy out? these are at .5mm Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-503609 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 21, 20168 yr Author comment_503610 13 minutes ago, Zed Head said: The piston pop-up is normal. About 020", or 0.5mm. The observation crops up here and there, for stock engines. Doesn't seem to be spec'ed out anywhere but many people see it. this has me wondering about piston-valve clearance if i go with a higher lift cam. just trying to wrap my head around it all. sooner or later it will click Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-503610 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 21, 20168 yr comment_503611 Don't forget that the HG is ~ 1.25 mm. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-503611 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 21, 20168 yr comment_503628 If you search you will find -as Zed said- that this is about right. Run what you brung as far as cam. You should be fine. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-503628 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 21, 20168 yr comment_503631 My take on your cam question is based on the cam I had reground. The lobes are much smaller now, almost round. So I don't see how they could push any of the valves further down than stock. They just stay open longer. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-503631 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 21, 20168 yr comment_503636 Not sure I agree with your explanation Cliff There's guys running 500+ lift cams with flat tops with no issues. Everything comes at a risk with performance parts . Things do get closer to clashing, but if installed correctly you should be okay. There are methods of measuring. I actually shaved another .007 off my block so the Pistons are now .025 out of block- but I'm willing to take that risk Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-503636 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 29, 20168 yr Author comment_504048 so in the mean time while waiting on parts and stuff, i made a new alternator bracket and modified the tensioning strap. this is a 90 amp nipon-denso. car-quest #13185. i have one of these on my old power-wagon. it puts out 14+ volts at low rpm's (650-700) Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-504048 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 29, 20168 yr comment_504051 Never mind. I checked out some Google images. Looks plenty. Why'd you install it on the AC bracketry instead of the original spot? Edited September 29, 20168 yr by Zed Head Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-504051 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 29, 20168 yr Author comment_504059 it was kind of cluttered there with the oil pump and radiator hose, and making a mount for this side was easier than modifying the original. and i like different Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-504059 Share on other sites More sharing options...
October 31, 20168 yr Author comment_505712 i have been waiting on parts to get the work on the cylinder head finished, so in the meantime........ voltage regulator mid 80's Chrysler temperature/oil psi gauges. i kind of like them here. i do trust mechanical over electric new flame thrower coil aluminum. gotta love it intake all cleaned up with new linkage, just looking for a home header sand-blasted, painted and wrapped. looking for a home pcv valve connection welded onto the header. we shall see if this works. i also plan on o2 sensors new differential straps. cost $6 for 6 feet of seatbelt material. the guy says this is good for around 2000 psi. we shall see getting ready to drop the engine back in place new centerforce clutch Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/52787-sweatys-rebuild/?&page=14#findComment-505712 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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