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Careless

240Z Resto - 01/1970 Car

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Update (In Words)

 

- I got the parts back from vapor blasting, done by rocketperformance.ca. Brian Holmes took his time to do them well, and the price was absolutely great, and the results speak for themselves. Way cleaner than bead blasting, smooth to the touch, and looks just like the inside of the timing cover. The only thing I need to do is clean them up with some aluminum brightener (aka, phosphoric acid, concrete etcher, etc.), and then wipe them with some baking soda + warm soapy water to neutralize.

Once that's done, they're ready to put the where they need to go. Once installed, a little bit of grease & wax remover (or acetone), and let it evaporate. Then apply Sharkhide when it's on the engine, and she'll look like new for minimum 5 years, provided no fuel gets on it. Right now they might have some finger prints or a little dirt. But they're soooooo nice.

 

- Acid dipped parts didn't come out like that. I had to scrub the ever loving s**t out of them with phosphoric acid and a mix of wire brushes, scotchbrite pads, and steel wool. I didn't like how they came from the acid dipper, as they were dunked in a caustic solution- not an actual acid based solution. There were some deep scratches that I sanded down with 120G pad on an orbital, then moved on up to progressively finer pads. I am just going out the door after this post to drop 'em off at the powder coater with the exact-match paint codes I got for the fan and the plenum that I took a week to hunt down. Will post results and side-by-side with the 71 parts car intake when I get to the shop in a weeks time. The issue with scratches on the intake that were just on the paint ended up being more than just scratches on the paint. There was a ton of little specs of rust that I didn't want to powder coat over. The phosphoric acid and scotchbrite took care of that real quick. I really wish I had taken a before and after. It's a little trick I learned from way back when I had my 260Z. I removed paint and coated the doors with phospho, and they were left bare in my garage for 2 years and never rusted, even on days when I would go in there and everything was covered in moisture/dew during humid weeks.

 

- Hardware that you see so far is just a bit of the clear zinc plated stuff. Mostly oil pan bolts and wire-clamp bolts and washers. I think I'm missing a string of the small washers. Hopefully they can be replaced with some M4 or M5 washers, or maybe they're all there- or still some at the platers. Not sure, but it doesn't look like I got them all back.

 

There was an issue with "bleed out" on the yellow zinc stuff. Essentially, anything with blind holes traps caustic fluid or plating solution, and when they are removed from the plating bath, they end up leaking out the trapped fluid and washing off the dichromate finish coating. So it looks like a very poor plating finish. Not anything like the previous items I had done (brake lines, and transmission plate). Thankfully, they have a muriatic acid solution that they can dip them in for a couple of minutes to remove the plating and try again without damaging anything.

 

I would have done muriatic acid stripping in my garage- but while the chemical itself removes rust and previous finishes, the fumes will rust everything in the garage that's not coated. And I have a couple of expensive 370z/350z transmissions and some engines that I'd rather not test that theory with- so no muriatic acid in the garage.

 

I haven't had that happen with phosphoric acid, so that's why I use that.

Edited by Careless

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RE: Radiator fan... that last photo I posted was of a grinding mark I saw on the fan, and it's present on maybe 3 of the 7 fins... I was wondering if this is intentionally done by datsun? It was all painted with the original cream/ivory finish, so I don't think it was done afterwards. Maybe poor quality control for that part? It doesn't have very many moving parts, so it probably got an OK back in the 70's. 

Edited by Careless

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Raff, that stuff is too pretty to put in an engine bay. Nice work.

I have had good results using this stuff called  Armour Etch, it is primarily used by glass hobbyist to etch glass but it works very well on aluminum. Ammonium and Sodium bifluoride and some citric acid.

I got mine on ebay.

Looking forward to seeing the Sharkshide.

Chris

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The engine bay it's going in is just as pretty, promise! Will post pics when I get the stuff back from the powder coater, etc.

Do you have any photos of the results with the Armour Etch? I see it's nasty on the skin, LOL

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Wow, amazing work on everything.  26-th is correct on color and an amazing source of info.  Great to see all of the pics.  Attached is the motor from my 4/70 Z for reference.

post-18091-0-16842900-1434677026_thumb.j

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Any more pics of your car you can send me? Funny, it's the same colour too!

I have lots of pics of the car.  Just let me know what you would like to see, and I can post them.  Here are a few body shots.

post-18091-0-27056000-1434718130_thumb.j

post-18091-0-91923300-1434718150_thumb.j

post-18091-0-85971400-1434718182_thumb.j

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motorman7, any shots of the engine up close (particularily the valve cover, and the front of the motor) or any of the underbody? thanks a bunch! awesome fairlady!

 

just got some good news. going to pick up the rest of the plated stuff at 1:00PM! yaaaay!

Edited by Careless

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motorman7, any shots of the engine up close (particularily the valve cover, and the front of the motor) or any of the underbody? 

Here are a couple shots.  Let me know if this is what you are looking for.  Needs a bit of clean-up but not bad for 97K miles.

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post-18091-0-50319200-1434728860_thumb.j

Edited by motorman7

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ugh, now i feel like a dumb arse for breaking  like 6-10 body bolts from my car when i was removing the front fenders.. 

 

double ugh when i realized i did not organize the bolts correctly.

 

tripple ugh, when i found a stupid wood screw in the engine bay

 

this restoration is gonna be so much fun :D

 

And i thought a hybridZ setup was going to be expensive, then all you old people have to show me that OEM is best. RIP wallet, you never were as fat as you thought you were gonna get. :(

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heyitsrama, I'm just a middle-aged insomniac that has no real schedule as far as my day-to-day stuff. I'm kind of "out-and-about" when it comes to doing this restoration. not quite what a lot of you guys doing restos for yourself are going through. but not unlike a lot of them either!

Edited by Careless

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This is a cast aluminum baffle out of an oil pan I'm working on, those oil stains are 28 yr, 221,000 miles old.

The clean spot on the left is 30 sec. of scrubbing with Armour Etch an old toothbrush, the clean spot on the right is 30 sec of scrubbing and left for 9 hrs. Not much difference.

Although Armour Etch is very effective on aluminum it is not designed for it and you can get similar results with an industrial cleaner with Potassium Hydroxide in it.

 

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I think that's a little too aggressive- definitely etching, not brightening. The Hydroflouric Acid content must be a little too high for what I'm using the Brightener for. Had they been soiled, the valve and timing covers would definitely need some of that stuff like some of the transmission cases I have here at home, but it was just painted silver and sand blasted... So the vapour blasting is nearly the finish I'd like. If the Aluminum Brightener doesn't work on the small lower thermostat housing (not pictured), I will not use it on the rest of the stuff to be safe. The Vapour Blasting does look really good as is- but just a touch more "shine" or smoothness to it will really make it look factory fresh.

 

I found a NAPA location that has a couple of spray bottles in stock. I'm going to test later if I can get a couple of hours at a friends race shop. I don't want to spray and wash this stuff on my driveway, best to do it elsewhere where there's a hose and some open space and no foliage.

 

I was just de-wiring everything that was plated. Only a couple of items might have to be redone, but everything came out amazing. I was in awe at all it's lustre and beauty the whole time! 

 

Once I get this stuff sprayed and brightened (if it works), I'll be doing the sharkhide dip on the alternator goodies, and dropping those off with Glen @ Vaughan Auto Electric. He has the stator and rotor at the shop, as he took them off the housings for me to get them blasted. He's goign to test the new and old regulators for me, and check that the rebuilt starter has the proper shimming on the bendix gear to make sure it actuates properly. He's very particular about that, so I'd rather he looks at it before I install it.

 

He's also a Datsun owner, and his 240 is always in the shop and is a really nice example of a Datsun as well- but more Resto-mod style.

 

 

As for the intake plenum... that scratch was bothering me, so I went back to the powder coater and asked to see it for a couple of minutes. Went to my car, took out my trusty Milwaukee Cordless Rotary Tool with some dremel attachments, and cleaned it up with a cross-buff wheel before scrubbing it with some green scotchbrite. I made sure to just glide it over the surface and not mess with the contour of the edge of the intake box, as I'm very familiar with grinding tools and porting heads and whatnot... Ended up with this:

 

lCg0sDv.png

 

which should cover up with the powder coating way better than this:

 

GEjasY8.png

 

Also, here's one of the 6 boxes of plating stuff that I was tangled in, crying for help from my garage from 3 to 5AM (with a smile on my face because of how shiny they are!)

 

CfuCARF.png

 

Will post the before/after photos of the parts later today when I go to put them back in their little containers for easy transport...

 

On schedule for today is:

- organizing the plated stuff a bit better

- Aluminum Brightener testing

- Perhaps some more tumbling.

- making a brake line straightener.

 

Will be posting info/pics/tutorial on how it's made one it's actually made.

Edited by Careless

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Having a debate with myself over the engine colour.

 

The datsun TRUE BLUE I've received from Datsun Parts LLC (Now California Datsun) is closer to this colour pictured here:

 

xRABJFR.jpg

 

Is this the right colour blue? Because some items like the smog pump may have been either sprayed differently from factory, or have been top-coated with something a bit more "sky" like.

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Here's my block getting painted with paint sourced from Banzai Motorworks.  I think this color has been authenticated as restoration accurate by ZCCA.  It looks to be a lot lighter than in your latest picture.

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That's the colour I've been seeing on other motors as well, but the one I posted I've also seen.

 

Damnit. I don't know what to do now.

 

It looks as if there is some original paint on the motor that is the darker colour, too. So I'm not even sure what the thing came with from factory.

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Got this reply from the California Datsun

 

 

We reproduced this color from a Genuine Nissan painted NOS alternator arm that was never subjected to weather or abuse. Much of the shade has to do with the primer and prep work put into it also.

 

 Your engine has 45 years of heat, dirt and road grime and that color is faded over the years. We have sold hundreds of these cans over the last several years without a single complaint. Our engines have won national z car conventions with that shade of blue green. In addition we paint 90% of every engine we sell in that color. 

 

Nissan/Datsun had also been known to use a variety of shades from the factory too, so there is not real correct answer to the correct shade, I would not loose sleep over it.

 

Yet, this is the image I have that was taken of the engine as it came out:

 

3MjdyUR.png

 

:-/

 

should I buy from Banzai? this colour is too dark. yet, the alternator bracket has the darker colour on it as well, for some reason...

Edited by Careless

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