Was wondering what the correct color for the rear tail light panel on a 1970 240? I know that its black but not sure semi-gloss,, glossy, matte finish etc. If anyone has a paint code or formula for the correct shade of gloss I'd appreciate it? Thanks guys!

Hi Metalman:

Les Cannaday at Classic Datsun Motorsports in Los Angeles area has spray (rattle) cans of the correct paint blend available. It is not a black, it's more like a dark grey. That is the only source that I know of for the correct paint. I'm not sure where you'd get the recipe to mix your own.

Hope that Helps!

Carl

Hi Carl!

Thanks for the info. I feel a little silly for not knowing that the original color was a dark gray but I've never actually seen an original tail light panel.(or at least not that I had noticed) My 260 had been painted black and so had the 70 240 that I have now. I guess it's going to take a while to become somewhat knowledgeble about these cars. I really spent the better part of my 20's into 5.0 mustangs and just recently rediscovered my love for the Z car.

I still would like to know if anyone out there has a code or formula for the color as I would prefer to mix and spray it from a gun. EScanlon if you read this do you have any idea.

I'm really enjoying this club and the benefit of all of the knowledge of you guys out there. Thanks!:cheeky:

metalman5117 (no photos yet but on the way)

metalman5117 :

Yeah, not too surprising, many (most?) of the finisher panels have been repainted by now, and the ones that haven't are often severely discolored from exhaust fumes, road grime, etc.

You might try to look on www.Zhome.com to see if they show the formula to mix that paint. I'm not sure where on the site to look, but maybe someone else knows if it is there and where.

Good Luck!

Carl

Well, I can't say that I've done it, but here is the formula in Wick Humble's book.

Ditzler Duracryl DDL 2862 Argent with quite a bit of suede additive.

1 pint DDL

200 units DX265

300 units DX 264

Thin 100-150% and spray fairly dry.

Regulate air pressure to the high side

Make sure you keep the paint mixed in the cup

Don't expect any gloss as it shouldn't have any

Unmask as soon as the paint has "flashed over" so you don't run into problems when you remove the tape.

I knew I had seen it somewhere, but I could not remember where.

It's really inconvenient having my shop/work space clear across town. I have all my reference books there where I'l need them most, so at home I'm blind!

Wow what can I say you guys are pretty amazing! 2manyZs I was thinking that you would know I don't no why I didn't mention your name? At the risk of sounding like a suck up you seem to be a wealth of Z knowledge. I've been reading a lot of the archived posts and your name pops up quite a bit. Thanks a lot I 'm gonna take that formula to my PPG supplier and see if I still able to get Duracryl in my area. PPG has pretty much phased out lacquer based products but I'm sure that they can use that formula to match it with their Concept line. Or maybe I should just do what Carl suggested and go with the aerosol. Like my Dad always said "Keep It Simple Stupid!" anyways I have a very long ways to go before I get to that point.

While I've got some of you in this thread especially 2manyZ's since you live in Virginia also; Do any of you know much about what they call Electro- Chemical dipping? I'm not sure if that is the correct name for the process but it involves dipping the car in a vat where the fluid(I guess water?) is charged with positive ions

and rust is removed without removing any of the parent metal. I've read about it in several mags but I have no idea where there is a company reasonably near me that does it. It seems like the ideal way to ensure that what you are starting with has had all rust completely removed. Drawback of course is that car has to be stripped to a bare shell but I'm willing to take it to that level. Anyone have any ideas?

Thaks guys and remember; Rust never sleeps:devious:

I just happened to have a referrence library close to the computer....:stupid:

As far as the "dipping" process, I haven't heard of any place that does it, but if I were to guess, they would probably be in the Richmond/Tidewater or DC area....

The major drawback of this is all the labor involved in stripping the chassis. Not only that, but I believe there's quite a bit of labor involved after it is stripped, in cleaning off the chassis after the dipping and sealing the chassis metal. Of course, then you have to start putting it back together after it's painted....

I might know a couple people that might be know somewhere that does it.. I can ask around.

Hi Metalman:

Les Cannaday at Classic Datsun Motorsports in Los Angeles area has spray (rattle) cans of the correct paint blend available. It is not a black, it's more like a dark grey. That is the only source that I know of for the correct paint. I'm not sure where you'd get the recipe to mix your own.

Hope that Helps!

Carl

I am going to order a couple of cans for my painter to use on my '78 280Z. Les is very helpful. The paint is $22 a can.

The dipping process can be done at a company called Redi-Strip. I haven't checked for a couple of years, but they used to advertise in Hemmings Motor News. There were locations around most major metropolitan areas.

I found areas of the original color on the rear panel of my '73 240 and it's what I would call a dark gunmetal grey with a very mild metalic chip in it. From a purely visual standpoint, I found the best match to be SEM bumper coat in dark fern gray metallic color code 39433 in spray cans. I suspect that an SEM dealer could also mix this color up in quarts or pints as well.

My dearest gentle suck-up,

The electro-chemical dipping process you describe is performed for cars of distinction by the exclusive spa "Revivations" in the sparkling metropolis of Wauchula, Florida. All Datsuns of serious pedegree attend, however Her Majesty was horrified to discover that they also cater to other such rif-raf as classic pick-up trucks and (dare I mention it?) muscle cars. Princess 27 thought the place was cool as a couple of her dancer buddies, Mercedes and Porsche, attend frequently. I am begining to see the twins are going to take a while getting used to each other. They are already arguing over who is going to wear what part!!!

The electro-chemical stripping process includes a dip in a stripping tank along with a power spray wash of water. It is a some sort of paint stripper solution which Revivations claim is not acid. The final dip is in a heated alkaline solution (baking soda). A sacrificail anode is used to "reverse the rusting process" by passing a DC current through the tank. Ferrous ions are drawn off the metal leaving a completely derusted piece. Wherever there was rust is now gone leaving 100% bare metal. This process will not harm the lead fillers or the plastic padding on the wiring harness tabs as long as no rust is present. For instance, it won't harm properly applied bondo where there is no rust underneath. The greatest thing about this process is that it removes the rust ferrous ions completely, inside and out. No blasting process does. The bare metal dries with a dust of baking soda on it to prevent flash rust. I have seen parts go 6 weeks or so without flash rust.

Revivations gets around $1500 to do the chassis only. Doors, hood, body parts are extra. They do gas tanks, wheels, you-name-it. If it is rusted, they will take the rust off. They just did a metal shingle roof for a client of mine. Great place. Seriously slow and royaly pricey. Kathy is also quite capable of recommending the best and most expensive places to have other parts restored. Pioneer Restorations next door does complete automotive restorations - museum quality.

Revivations / Pioneer Auto Restoration, Inc.

122 South 8th Avenue

Wauchula, Florida 33873

Kathy 863.773.9152

The tail light valance is painted a charcoal grey. I have heard arguments about the value of the color - ranging between a #4 warm and a #8 warm grey. I will probably go for a lighter value, but I think it should match the grill and hubcaps. I bought authentic engine paint from Mike McGinnis at Banzai to discover he was using the same source as I had been tempted to use. I'm going to take that formula to www.towerpaint.com and see what it looks like. The original finish is an unpolished lacquer which does not take wax very easily. It seems the color fades quite easily. Older, used examples of mine are much lighter than my new examples. Perhaps thus the controversy?

I'll be posting pictures of my experiences with the dipping process. I was just about to start with 26 when I bought 27. I'll also return to this thread in the future to discuss my thoughts on the paint color. Let me get a can of this and see what it looks like.

Chris

Chris,

I'll shoot lots of pics after my car is finished including the redone rear panels using Les's spray cans.