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Reverend

It Ain't Running Right!

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Im still on the process of checking fuel levels, i removed both main jets from middle carb and for my surprise, the actual jet was detached from the F11 emulsion tube. I had to use some "special skills" to get it out from the bottom. I wonder has that been effecting engine behaviour, i mean there cant be more than human hair worth of free space between main jet/emulsion tube and the bottom of that shaft..?

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I made a small tool from transparent pvc pipe, made mark on 29mm and 31mm and measured. First 2 carbs had exactly the same amount of fuel (29mm), rear one had tad over 31mm. I dialed it down but even after full turn, it did not lower the fuel level to 29. Fuel level screw on the last carb is over 2 threads higher than the first 2. Is that normal? Here are couple videos, this first one is taken right after i started it, it raises rpms well but you can hear that the idle is far from nice. It feels like its not running on all cylinders when i took it for a spin, after few mins, it felt better, but not normal.

http://vid578.photobucket.com/albums/ss224/Spacereverend/20150414_194615_zpsgfjnfec5.mp4

 

This is just a test how it sounds inside, too bad on this you cant hear the burbling sound it makes when idling.

http://vid578.photobucket.com/albums/ss224/Spacereverend/20150414_195141_zpssmuhj8ya.mp4

 

On this last one, engine is almost fully warmed and i slowly raise rpms. Im quite sure it spits out from the last carb. Tell me your opinions!

http://vid578.photobucket.com/albums/ss224/Spacereverend/20150414_195719_zpsqvdavzzy.mp4

 

I'm also worried about the engine shaking on idle, it shakes a lot.

Edited by Reverend

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is fuel level measured from the ledge or from the bottom of the fuel bowl?

if the back carb is 31mm down from the ledge then the fuel level has to come UP to 29mm.

If this is the case then your observation of the last carb spitting is right and is probably due to it being leaner.

However all your plugs looked rich so if spark and fuel is ok then you should change jets.

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I measured the fuel level from the bottom to up cause i had no proper equipment. First two had about 29 from bottom to up, last one had 30+mm, seems like its same measurement, from down to up or up to down. Fuel should be somewhere in the middle.

Edited by Reverend

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Try to get them all the same as a starting point.

The next step would be to have a look at idle jets (as fuel level and advance are known and ok).

1. Clean the plugs, turn the idle enrichment screws to 1 turn out and try and idle the car. (1 turn as I am assuming the idle jets are too big).

2. Balance the air then let it idle for 5 min then read the plugs to see if they look better.

----If so then your idle jets are too large.

----If not then turn the enrichment screws out to 1.5 turns and repeat

3. If you plugs look OK ~ 1.5 to 2.5 turns then your idle jets are reasonable.

After the above tests we can move to main jetting.

Edited by Blue

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Hmmm. It spits and spats only about 2000 to 2500 rpms, in belove and over that it runs fine...???

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Well if all else is ok then you may wish to play with the accelerator pump stroke. It is externally adjustable on your carbs.

 

If the carbs spit during transition then try giving more fuel through the acceleration pump adjustments.

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I havent tried tinkering with idle jets yet, i'll try later this week. Im afraid tinkering with them, i'll mess it up even more, but we'll see. It seems the last carb is more fuel hungry than the first two. Fuel level is the same now in all and thats the one spitting, i guess because lack of fuel..?

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I'll check the plugs today. Could be dirt, could be anything. I will try to match the fuel level with other carbs and check out the proper fuel pressure, i have a gut feeling about it. Its just the throat nr 6 spitting out.

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6 may have dirt. Does it spit at idle or at higher rpms? If at idle then it would be the idle jet, or passage to enrichment screw or fuel filter. Flush it out well.

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One of my Z-friends suggested that with L24 timing (with triples) would be better in 8-9 degrees initial... any opinions on that? I shall try to tinker with the timing ONE MORE TIME.

Edited by Reverend

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Non-emission L24  engine is spec'd at 17degree initial.  The emission version is 5 degrees.

 

Check page ET-3 of the L20A, L24 Service manual.

 

 

You should be able to work anywhere between 5 and 17 degrees so long as you don't over shoot 36-38 degrees at full advance ~3000 rpm.

 

 

The faster your motor will advance after 1200 rpm, the better your motor will pull so long as you do not ping by advancing too quickly. (The weights, springs and canister on your distributor take care of how the timing advances from initial to full).

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Something very strange has happened!! Yesterday was the first day in week i had time to tinker the car, so i started with my long planned speedo change. I had taken the old off beforehand, now was time to put the "new" one in. Well i succeeded in that and was planning to go to test drive to see if it works. Well i did not have my tachometer on and for some crazy arse reason the car did not start. Starter turned but engine did not start. I was mezmerised. Well decieded to check that engine problem later and put the tachometer back on and connected all the wires. After that car starts...OR TRIES. For some reason everything has gone straight to hell. It barely starts, stumbles like crazy, backfires from carbs and exhaust, engine shakes like crazy and only stays on if i hit pedal to the metal but i do not dare to do that, im afraid something has gone horribly wrong. I tried to tinker the timing, but no matter what i do, its just $^!#. No matter how retarded or advanced, it barely starts. Tried with 2 different distributor caps, 2 coils (another one was a MSD Blaster 2, but it apparently does not like the ballast resistor so it did start but died of instantly). Also checked plugs, they were all okay but equally black and wet. I checked all idle mixture screws, they were 1.75 turns open, i dialed them to 1.5. No change.

Heres couple videos me trying to start it.

 

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8rdlchur2m56qt/20150426_204707.mp4?dl=0

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s5g6jzh2382diit/20150426_204532.mp4?dl=0

 

I've already stressed her out so many times that i did not dare to press the pedal and so you dont hear when she's actually running...wich is just plain scary.

 

I dont know what to do.

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The reason it didn't start with the tach out is because the coil wire runs thru the tach to give you a reading. It's a current driven tach, so all your ignition current goes thru it. when you pulled your tach you disconnected your ignition.

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When it didn't start the first time, did you mess with anything before you reinstalled the tach?  Plug wires, maybe?  Kind of sounds like the firing order is reversed.

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Plug wires are in correct order, did check that out too. It sounds a lot like firing order is F-ed in bigtime. Is there any major wires inside console that i could have messed?

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I don't think that's likely. The tach is between the battery and the coil.

 

With the tach not installed, the entire rest of the ignition circuit is stone cold dead. No power at all and no energy to cause any damage.

 

In other words, the points are opening and closing, but there's no power to switch.

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Neither of those Dropbox videos will play on my system.  Don't know if it needs a sign-in or what.

 

He says that it runs now, but very poorly, so the tach and igntion system seem to be powered.  Considering that the plugs were fouled when there was no spark, I would install new, clean plugs, set everything back to where it was, and try again.

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Plugs are almost brand new, i cleaned them all and tried again with no change. I have gut feeling that it has something to do with spark but i just dont know what it is. Can i measure my coil somehow, that it is operating correctly? We have major car event coming in 4 days, the first of may....

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Back to square one, the disconnected tachometer that started it all - is it possible that something is screwed up in those connections?  Have you measured voltage at the coil?  While running?

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