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'72 240Z Rebuild

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Love the idea of the rubber pipe cap over the transmission output. Do you know what size it is?

It's a 2" for sure.  It's tight though, I didn't even have the clamp tightened.

 

Nice pictures.  I can see the factory hone marks in the cylinders but also the classic rust line of an engine that's been sitting (my old one has that).

 

I see that you have a chain tensioner block installed.  Like you haven't decided yet how far to tear it down.

 

I'm getting practice on removing heads the right way.

 

It's going to be completely torn out and down maybe today.  Thanks for the info on that rusty color on the walls, I did not know that was the reason.  It sat for 6 years.  :(

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I decided to drop the transmission onto a motorcycle jack I've used before for holding it to roll around while I pressure washed it.

Many moons ago I would pull and reinstall those trannys with no mechanical advantage. Just bench press style laying on the ground with the car on jack stands. If I tried that now I would be crushed like a bug.

 

I think the transmissions have increased substantially in mass over the years. Maybe absorbed stray extra neutrons from the microwave or something?

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Did you have a leak of some sort between 3rd and 4th cylinders on the side of the block? I can't really make out whats going on there but it looks different from the rest of the block.

 

Wow, you should really consider filling those cracks site...

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Many moons ago I would pull and reinstall those trannys with no mechanical advantage. Just bench press style laying on the ground with the car on jack stands. If I tried that now I would be crushed like a bug.

 

I think the transmissions have increased substantially in mass over the years. Maybe absorbed stray extra neutrons from the microwave or something?

I know that I've absorbed some stray neutrons into my cerebellum, fear and pleasure responses are backwards now.  What used to make me happy scares the $^!# out of me.  :(

 

Did you have a leak of some sort between 3rd and 4th cylinders on the side of the block? I can't really make out whats going on there but it looks different from the rest of the block.

 

Wow, you should really consider filling those cracks site...

HaHa!  That was a dirt dauber's mansion under my exhaust manifold.

 

I'm hoping to get about 2" of concrete poured over the entire garage when I get my foundation firmed up.  Just started that project too, 20 ton bottle jack and some screw jacks and a lot of digging.  I do better when I have multiple projects going on at the same time.

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All done with the removal part.

 

Now that the cam sprocket is off, TDC lines up with the right mark on the pulley and the oil pump spindle is at 11:25.  The sprocket was off a link or so after all.  I scratched around the valves seats and they look brass so I'm assuming they're bronze.  It had a Nissan clutch that was worn down pretty bad too.  I can't decide if this motor's been worked on or not.  The head gasket was covered with copper looking paint, what does that mean? 

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Getting my Dad's cherry picker tomorrow to pull the block out. I can't believe I wouldn't wait and get them both together. Stupid mistake I'll never repeat.

No problem Cliff.......just put a section of chain on your hoist.......put a head bolt and washer through the chain on number 1 driver side and number 6 passenger side. The chain will rise up to the washers and stop......lift her out.

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permcopspraygask__34069_zoom.jpg

Would Nissan have used a similar product at assembly?  The sprocket being out of time with the crank gear has me thinking it's been off before (the head) but they didn't update the valve seats and it was set to #1 hole so I'm not sure.

 

Getting my Dad's cherry picker tomorrow to pull the block out. I can't believe I wouldn't wait and get them both together. Stupid mistake I'll never repeat.

No problem Cliff.......just put a section of chain on your hoist.......put a head bolt and washer through the chain on number 1 driver side and number 6 passenger side. The chain will rise up to the washers and stop......lift her out.

That's what I did. :)   I used the hood latch housing to hold the rear of the motor up until the hoist was holding the weight of the block. 

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great to hear your progress - and excitement! i'll be borrowing your enthusiasm when i start re-building my f54/p79.

Rossiz.......Here's what your P79 will look like. This one is shaved and shimmed.

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oh god, you're killing me! that looks sooooo nice...

i'm in a bit of a holding pattern because my re-build project is being "trickle-funded" and other expenses have reduced that trickle to a slow, sporadic drip...

 

i've been looking around for machine shops here in seattle that are L6 savvy, i'm open to any recommendations.

 

back to siteunseen's thread though...

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oh god, you're killing me! that looks sooooo nice...

i'm in a bit of a holding pattern because my re-build project is being "trickle-funded" and other expenses have reduced that trickle to a slow, sporadic drip...

 

i've been looking around for machine shops here in seattle that are L6 savvy, i'm open to any recommendations.

 

back to siteunseen's thread though...

Oh he's killing me too! but in a good way.  I like to have something to shoot for.

 

Guy, what head gasket's do you use and do have a preference on fuel pumps?

 

Thanks,

Cliff

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Cliff.....I use a Nissan P79 head gasket. We drill out the orafice for the stock fuel pump and use the stock mechanical fuel pump. I always use the MSA turbo head bolts and the stock oil pump.

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Thanks Steve......Z Doc builds a really nice head.....those stainless steel swirl valves look great don't they. Engines are a piece of art if done correctly.

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All apart.  My hands are hurting, can barely hold my coffee mug or type, but the interior of the motor looks great so I'm happy.  Lesson learned yesterday, loosen the crank bolt BEFORE taking the transmission out, not too big a deal but more of a PITA that's not necessary. 

 

I put my N47 head on the 2.4 block and the exhaust valve just barely hits.

 

They are swollen and curled up, kinda like these;

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I did some measuring for the block notching.  It's .225" down to the top ring 

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And .10" across to the edge of the fire ring

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Can I use my pulley with the A/C row removed?

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Those look like Hulk hands.  Don't get angry!

 

I had a thought on your copper spray question - better check the head for warpage.  Copper spray = head gasket or head change = potential overheating = potential warpage.  Although, since you're playing with the N47 head on the L24 block, it may not be relevant.  Your title is "Rebuild" but it seems like you might be leaning toward "Performance build".

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 Your title is "Rebuild" but it seems like you might be leaning toward "Performance build".

When I went to work Monday and was telling the guys about how bad I felt they said "you mean that little orange car with the new wheels you's just down here in the other day?  That's the one you've taken apart?" 

 

I sure hope it performs better.  :)

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Might consider doing the notching now while everything is clearly marked. Your piston rings and HG have left you a perfect guide or line to NOT PASS while you are grinding. You can lay the HG on the head and mark a center line for the valve centerline and transfer that to the block. This will show you where the the outer radius or edge of the valve will be. Grinding now before cleaning makes sense too.

As far as grinding tools , I used a 60 grit drum sander on a dremmel. It is very controlable and takes material off slowly and smoothly. If it happens to jump around it won't gouge anything like a carbide bit will.

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I do want to do it before the machine shop get's it.  I'll have those carbon lines and the honing of the bores will make sure everything smoothes together.  I can't believe a dremel will cut that, amazing.  I use the same thing on my dogs toe nails then the next day (after she get's over being pissed at me) I hit them again with 120 grit.  Almost forgot that I've got a spare 2.4 block to practice with, it's never been cleaned either.  Now I've got a plan.  Gotta have a plan! :D   

 

I've decided to take the valves out of my E31 and try and polish it up some, you and Guy made me jealous, it'll help out my machinist too.

The list gets longer... :(

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I was suprised the sanding drums cut the block myself. It's a slow process and you will burn up a lot of drums, but slow is better. Or you could start out with a steel carbide and finish out with the sanding drum.

A plan is good

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Well I have an idea of what to do.  I took a bare N47 and put the exhaust valves in held up by clothes pins then chucked them to a drill and spun some marks on there.  Then I used a pink grinding stone that came with my Dremel.  One or two I'm not happy with but I'll get more practice tomorrow.

 

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