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Stanley

Rubber caps to block coolant lines - NO !

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    Less than 6 months ago put these Dorman caps on the heater tee and head (to heater) coolant outlet. They're already shot.

    Guess I'll use some tapered rubber plugs with a silicon rubber cap from

    M-C (clamped over the plugs) instead, until I get the heater hooked up.

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    Typical mainland Chinese... looks like a cap, feels like a cap but it ain't. It's a polished turd that fakes a real cap.

    Mainland China specializes in this and they are very good at it. Now that their economy is cooling, they are using even more watering-down methods.

    Now I avoid everything I can from China or labelled "imported for".

    For your problem, use non-chinese hose ~ 4" and 2 hose clamps. Stick a stainless bolt in the end and clamp it.

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    Dorman is an America-based company. Ultimately they are responsible for specifying and controlling product qualities. To hash it over one more time - the off-shore companies just produce to the specs. they're contracted to produce to. This is an American issue entirely.

    Corporate Info

    But, all I really wanted to know is what Dorman designed the parts to do. Maybe you're using vacuum line plugs on the cooling system.

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    Just checked Dorman website. They call them vacuum plugs and also heater bypass plugs. When you click on the heater bypass plugs it also calls them vacuum plugs.

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    Bummer. Dorman probably offers a lifetime replacement on those parts that don't work.

    If you're in a hurry you could loop a section of heater hose from one nipple to the other. Won't look pretty but you'll have the right materials in the right place.

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    Stopped by Ace hardware and got some tapered rubber plugs, two for the 5/8" ID hose barbs, and two for the 3/4" hose barbs. Hope I won't need the corkscrew to remove them. Hate to say it, but also got a packet of Dorman caps just so I can drive until the my silicon caps from M-C get here. Will also get a stainless steel BSPT plug for the water outlet. If I looped it I'd still need to cap the 3/4" end on the tee where the manifold heater line used to hook up. Might solder a metal cap on that one, since it's no longer connected to anything.

    Didn't see how bad that cap (and the other caps) was until I uploaded that shot and checked it out on the computer. Probably saved me a call to the tow truck.

    Weather is warming up, so fixing the heater is moving down on the "to do" list.

    Edited by Stanley

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    If you are talking about a classic cork shape, I'd worry about them popping out under pressure. I were you, I'd use the classic approach of using 2" of hose, a short bolt, and two hose clamps.

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    Great info regarding the caps! And the Silicone caps from McC would fit the bill more than likely. I went with the 2" piece of radiator hose and a #8 bolt for $2.80 -Thanks! 

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    I’ve used copper end caps with a piece of copper pipe soldered in and a jubilee clip to great effect. The PO had used the bolt method which had corroded a lot reacting with the coolant.

     

    The copper method works a treat and totally heat proof!

     

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    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F121665667956

     

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    Upon revisiting this solution I decided to contact McMaster-Carr, however when I did so the gal on the other end didn't have any info about the item I asked about -92805K23  a Silicone cap High Temperature Round Silicone - It looks too thin along the sides to hold very long - Maybe John will see this and reply - Hope so! Thanks! 

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