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A Question Regarding Turn Signals and Hazards


Graverobber

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I have been slowly bringing my 1970 240Z back from the depths of despair where its previous owner left it and now have it running and stopping well. One area that continues to be a challenge is the flashing lights at the corners, as not all of them do. Here's the situation at present:

Brake lights work both sides

Running lights work all corners and front and back

Head lights work

Back up lights work

Turn signals-

Left (driver side) work both front and back, and the little clicker on top of the flasher makes a clicky noise. The green tach light illuminates as expected.

Right (pass side) only the front works, the back doesn't, and there's no clicky noise from the clicker on top of the flasher. The green tach light illuminates as expected.

Hazards-

Flipping the hazard switch gives me flashing lights in the front, and nothing in the back. Both green tach lights flash as expected.

I have a sinking suspicion that my incredibly complicated turn signal switch may be to blame, but am puzzled by the hazard switch outcome. I should note that all bulbs have been confirmed functional.

Does anyone with greater experience with such things have an opinion on this scenario? I have searched the electrical forum and, while there's plenty of turn signal related posts, I haven't found any close to this issue.

Muchas gracias in advance,

Rob

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I've had great luck with hosing down sticky electrical switches with CAIG Deoxit - Home - CAIG Laboratories, Inc.

You can get it at audio places like Guitar Center. Other contact cleaners might work well also.

The switches are difficult to diagnose because some do their job by grounding a circuit and others by supplying power to a circuit

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I had almost the same problem with my 1970 z when I first acquired it. There are two problem areas. The turn signal switch and the 4 way hazard switch. Mine turned out to be the turn signal switch. Zed Head has a good first step. The turn signal switch is not sealed and subject to dirt and oxidation. You don't even have to remove the switch from the stalk. Simply remove the upper and lower covers and have at it.

I have used contact cleaner from Radio Shack with good success. The little red tubes come in handy.

If the cleaners don't get it. Dis-assembling the switch and burnishing the contacts may be required. However these parts are delicate and this is not a job for a beginner.

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Glad to see all the help articles for our newbies.

SteveJ, my main concern with the turn signal switch is breaking off the tabs shown in your picture #24. They are soft metal and can only be flexed a small number of times before they break off. Proper re-assembly of the switch can also be problematic - your photos can help there.

I was trained as an airborne electronics technician back in the days when these were state of the art, so it didn't bother me. I just caution others who may not have been so afflicted.

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If none of the suggestions resolve the issue (and it prob will), I believe Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) still does the rebuild of the switch. Dave created most of the conversions for the headlights, turn-signal, etc. that MSA sells and does quality work.

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SteveJ,

Your walkthroughs are hugely valuable. I attempted to open up my original broken hazard switch based on your pictures and description but sadly ended up with the pot metal enclosure breaking apart. That's why I'm so hesitant to do any microsurgery on such vital and expensive to replace parts.

I do appreciate all the documentation, and your circuit diagram of the hazard/TS wiring is the best I have found.

Thanks for the effort!

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Turn signal switches can be had at a reasonable cost. I have a big box of them. All they need is for me to tag & test them.

Unfortunately the pot metal is an issue. I don't have any broken switches handy to try to engineer a solution. (By the way, if any of you have a broken switch to donate to the cause, I will take it.)

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FWIW when I took my turn signal switch apart to scrape the carbon off of the contacts I bent the small side of the cover out at the corners instead of the tabs to get it apart. My theory is that the cover can be bent more times than the tabs before breakage because it doesn't have to bend as far. There might be a possibility of repair if it did break by soldering two "L" shaped pieces of metal around the two corners where it broke if that were to happen. All of this is just a theory though. The hard part of getting it back together I thought was making sure the ball bearing that goes on the end of the spring was in position after assembly (maybe drill an observation hole?):

post-18366-14150823617982_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mikes Z car
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