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acceler8

'72 240Z with much rust...

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Hi all. I am new to the Z community, as I have just purchased a 1972 240Z that is quite the basket case. It is all original, but has much rust, and a blown head gasket. At least I got a good deal... $300 for the whole thing, and it would still run, and even idle!!! I have the head off now, and am getting it machined smooth. I plan on just getting it running for now, and then tweaking it later. I can't wait to learn how to tune and set the round top SU carbs!!!

Here is a question. What type of welder should I get? I would like one that is 110V, if it could handle body welding, and perhaps some frame welding... 208/230V would be ok if that is what it takes. I have not welded in 10 years, and then it was only arc welding. Should I look at a MIG?

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Does the car that you're working on have rust on the frame..? If so be very careful..Its been my expereince that rusted frame rails, floor boards.etc in an older Z is usually trouble..With its unibody construction.you don't want to tkae a chance on a weak point that could stress the frame under duress...

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Well, I have a new Z car with very little rust except for the passenger side frame rail. It is a '71 240Z, and is very cool. I am concerned about my repairs to the frame rail, but I plan on testing it completely prior to driving on the street:-)

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Let me know how things work out..I have a similar project going on wiht a 74 260 that I want to drop a Chevy 350 into and I'm sure I'll need plenty advice..

ra

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Well it had better scream..or I will...

Thanks for the quick response too..I'm new to this fabulous club and its great to have folks that can relate to my passion for Zs..

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Acceler8,

I can relate! I'm 99% finished with all the rust repair welding on my 240. Been at it six months. The best value I've found on a mig welder "hands down" is the Century 140 Mig Welder available through Sears for $750. It has all the "goodies"-- spot & stitch welding timers, continuously variable heat and wire speed settings, dual range (0-90 & 90-140) and best of all it runs on 110v household. I've used and abused mine for the last six months and it has been a 100% reliable. Very easy to use. Funny thing is MAC tools sell the identical unit (except it says "MAC Tools" on it) for $1500. Go Figure. At $750 its a bargain! Happy Welding.

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Check out http://www.lincoln.com I have the Lincoln SP125 it's a Mig welder (wire feed) and runs on 110v. It also can be used with or without gas. I only use gas as it welds with less splatter, and cleaner welds by far. I use C25 which is 75% Co2 and 25% Argon which welds steel, Iron very good!

I had a rusted out driver side frame rail. I have blue prints someplace around here for it, but you will need one for the other side. My prints that I made are for what is called a "Doubler" frame. Its an exact fit frame that slips over the old one, then you weld it together. Mine worked real good. I work on aircraft and we have to build these doubler frames all the time, thats where I learned to build them and I know they are as strong or even stronger than the factory one. They are easy to make, just strip everything off the frame (suspension, struts, bolts and stuff) measure it all, build it, slip it on and weld it together. I also built a new drivers side strut tower as that was also rusted out. I cut what was left of the old one off, and welded the new one in. This was on my 1974 260Z.

Hope this helps.

madmike...

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