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200 hp club?


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I agree with Guy (above) - even with a L28 it's hard to get to 200HP at the wheels. You can always but in a loud cam with a lot of noise but I really don't want an engine with a rough idle...............unless you use it at the track what is all that HP going to do for anybody other than braggin' rights anyway?

If you really want 200+ HP call Dave Rebello (Rebello Racing) and get ready to hand him your American Express - he can build it if you want it!

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Displacement is your friend. If your willing to go to a 2.8 or 3.0 liter (still looks like 2.4!!) it would help a lot. And if your talking at the crank that would also help. I did a lot of head work on mine and am at 184hp at the wheels. I'll post a dyno of my 178hp run cause I don't know were the other one is.post-24525-14150817131577_thumb.jpg

started with Rebello 3.0 liter bottom end. E88 head ported, chambers welded (custom shape 11.5:1 compression.), steel seats, bigger valve, Isky 490-290 cam, Rebello modified SU carbs, MSA 6-1 header, 2 1/2" exhaust.

Since this dyno I've taken the oil out of the dashpots & did a couple of mods that Dave recommended and retuned. Seems to be a lot more powerful now but dyno needs to confirm this.

This was at 5000 feet elevation and my dyno guy says its not corrected for elevation.

Edited by 30 Ounce
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One word - turbo .

Great on gas , but finding the correct kit may be the challenge.

Mine works flawlessly for around 7 years now , bit I rarely drive it unless

the sky is blue and there's no salt brine on the roads, which seems to be the latest trend.

Salt lines on roads from November to February sucks !

EDIT - You want to keep the L24 - Never mind the above then . :ermm:

Edited by Unkle
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Displacement is your friend. If your willing to go to a 2.8 or 3.0 liter (still looks like 2.4!!) it would help a lot. And if your talking at the crank that would also help. I did a lot of head work on mine and am at 184hp at the wheels. I'll post a dyno of my 178hp run cause I don't know were the other one is.

started with Rebello 3.0 liter bottom end. E88 head ported, chambers welded (custom shape 11.5:1 compression.), steel seats, bigger valve, Isky 490-290 cam, Rebello modified SU carbs, MSA 6-1 header, 2 1/2" exhaust.

Since this dyno I've taken the oil out of the dashpots & did a couple of mods that Dave recommended and retuned. Seems to be a lot more powerful now but dyno needs to confirm this.

This was at 5000 feet elevation and my dyno guy says its not corrected for elevation.

That engine is begging for triples! I bet you'd be near or over 200hp with a proper setup.

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I've heard that installing a set of triple Mikuni carbs is good for a few ponies and drives better than Webers. I just sent a set of Mikuni PHH 40 to Wolf Creek Racing for refurbishing. They'll be installed on my dad's stock 240 so I'll let you know. We'll have that dyno'd too.

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Send your engine to Rebello and get the purist mod done . Set you back some serious $$, but it will be done right.

That's what I did. It wasn't cheap, but I'm glad I did it. Rebello did the 2.7 L stroker upgrade to my L24. Dyno'd at 212 HP / 200 ft-lbs on premium pump gas. It did lose the silky-smooth idle of the stock cam. It doesn't lope, just idles a bit rougher. Unless I mention it, most people just think that it's normal.

Good Luck in a street able 240......a lot of people make the claim......dynos don't lie. You'd have to spend a ton, run 100 octane at $8.00 a gallon and while you're at it , just paint a number on the side. IMO .

Have to dis-agree. Mine is drives no differently than before on the street, and provides smooth, consistent power. The the torque-curve is quite flat. I did have a slight pinging problem, but finally figured-out I couldn't advance the timing past the stock spec with pump gas.

A well done engine upgrade doesn't drive any differently enough to notice. It does get to be more work to drive when HP is increased so much that you need a performance clutch. Had a chance to drive a 280 with a race clutch and thought it would not be fun in traffic...

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