Jump to content

IGNORED

Hood Vents


Pomorza

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Found this online earlier tonight and I'm wondering if you guys have an opinion on it. By the looks of it I could in theory just cut out the needed holes and place the vents in. Has anyone used or had any experience with these?

Jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It could be done on an earlier hood although it would be much easier to install them on a 77-78 hood which already has the cutouts. Look carefully at the raised area around the vents on the blue hood. The blue one is a 77-78 hood and the black one is a 70-76.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't know why the backlash on hood vents, but if you want them to be functional (heat out of the engine compartment, downforce) I think you can do better than these. There has been a lot of discussion about hood vents on hybridz.org in the aero forum. Take a look at the wind tunnel results too. Aesthetics notwithstanding, they do make a beneficial difference to the function of the car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't know why the backlash on hood vents, but if you want them to be functional (heat out of the engine compartment, downforce) I think you can do better than these. There has been a lot of discussion about hood vents on hybridz.org in the aero forum. Take a look at the wind tunnel results too. Aesthetics notwithstanding, they do make a beneficial difference to the function of the car.

That's why I want them. I need to get heat out of my engine bay as living in Arizona (with 100+ summers) the engine (injectors especially) gets a bit warm. By the pictures they look functional which is really what I am after. I'll take your advise and go to hybrid and see what I can read.

If anyone has any other vents on their Z (other than the stock ones) please let me know where you got them and how they work.

Jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've also seen louvers in the inspection panels to (apparently) help vent the engine compartment. These don't stand out as much as putting them on the hood, but I've no idea how effective they are. Mine car had these on it when I purchased it, but I've since removed them and have stock inspection lids on it now (you can see them in this pic, sorry I don't have a closer one)

post-8920-14150811726644_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

if you care about the look, I think OEM is the best looking, as Sblake said, get a 280Z's hood, and I say, take it with the vetns ;)

and from my experience with hot weather which we really enjoy here, nothing beats the electric fan + aluminum radiator, the heat builds up at idle in traffic the most, when you move above 20Mph the engine bay will be cooled with your stock combo.

I used a BMW 325i radiator, a 1990 I believe, it sits like if it was made for the Z! the upper brackets hold to the Z's radiator frame like original! you'll have to fabricate a filler cap on top of the thermostat housing or on a pipe in the upper rad. hose. this radiator has a temp. switch that you can use for a two speed fan if you want, and I think you will not even to thing about the vents later:)

to me, I would do it again for the excessive heat, without looking back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They worked great! Sorry about the nasty barf taste in some of your mouths, babies seem to do that often.:cry:

Anyways, they were simple to install in fiberglass hood using dremel tool. Probably little more patients cutting in metal but do able. They let the heat out good with the electric fan on even sitting in the pits. They dropped the air pressure way down at 120MPH. And I like the looks too.

Not so sure some people would like cutting up a hood, or adding aftermarket parts on vintage cars, but I worked great for us.

Cheers.

HoodVent2.jpg

HoodVent8-1.jpg

OTRJune1709.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jan, those should make a huge difference. I used to live in Texas and had a '75 there. It had a louvered ('78 model) hood on it when I bought it. When that hood perished in an accident, I replaced it with an unvented '75 model hood, which I felt looked better. Unfortunately there was more heat build up, and I do think I had a bit more difficulty with fuel vaporizing in the FI rail after engine shutdown.

It might not make much difference in AZ, but keep in mind that the stock lefthand vent (on later years) has a rain deflector to keep rain from coming down directly on the intake system. This blocks much of the needed airflow.

FAIW, I don't find the replacement vents that objectionable, but I sure wish I could find some aftermarket OEM style vents to replace mine. Mine are only barely holding together. I think you could make these blend a bit better with some paint that's close to your body color. It wouldn't even have to be an exact match -- maybe a complementing shade in the same color family.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had noticed these vents at MSA awhile back, but decided against them...just not the look i was going for.

fast woman, MSA sells stock hood vents, http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SBC1A05B/30-7091, i had thought about ordering a pair to paint black, and keep my originals in the correct color. I still might, just down on the list of priorities...

I had been having issues with starting the engine when hot, so i removed the drip pan from the driver-side vent, and installed the manifold cooling fan from an 83 280zx turbo. the fan bolted right up to existing points on block and valve cover. i bought a thermostat/relay sensor and set it to run a little above operating temperature, so when the car is running the fan doesn't, but after shut off and the radiator heats up a bit, the fan kicks on, cools the fuel rail, and if i go to start the car when still warm i don't have any of the vapor-lock-rough-idle i had been having.:cool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for the feedback. At the moment my suspension is in dire need of attention so I'm pretty sure I'm going to start there. As winter is on its way and temps will drop (I hope) this shouldn't be much of an issue for a bit.

I'm thinking of wrapping the FI lines in some sort of heat resistance material to keep them cool and see if that helps in the time being. Any experience with this or concerns?

Jan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys for the feedback. At the moment my suspension is in dire need of attention so I'm pretty sure I'm going to start there. As winter is on its way and temps will drop (I hope) this shouldn't be much of an issue for a bit.

I'm thinking of wrapping the FI lines in some sort of heat resistance material to keep them cool and see if that helps in the time being. Any experience with this or concerns?

No direct experience, but on my carbed Z I couldn't touch the fuel rail on a hot day. I replaced it with rubber and also got rid of the mechanical pump which is bolted to the head, and between the two mods I never had vapor lock again. If you had an IR temp gun you could find out how hot the rail is and then determine whether it is worth addressing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No direct experience, but on my carbed Z I couldn't touch the fuel rail on a hot day. I replaced it with rubber

I slit a rubber line up the middle and used it to wrap my metal lines. That way you have the rigidity of the stock lines with less heat up

post-20531-14150811794049_thumb.jpg

I daily drive my 240Z in south Texas and I have had no issue with vapor lock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I slit a rubber line up the middle and used it to wrap my metal lines. That way you have the rigidity of the stock lines with less heat up

[ATTACH]37431[/ATTACH]

I daily drive my 240Z in south Texas and I have had no issue with vapor lock.

It's still bolted to the head though. Might be a good idea just to check how hot the fuel lines are underneath the rubber hose. If it's not a problem then it's not a problem, but I think getting rid of the connection to the head was an important part of what I did.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am interested in learning what this vapor locking issue is. what are the symptoms, i know it is because the fuel got to hot, and i know the ZX's apparently had this issue which is why they installed that good for nothing fan that just blows more hot air onto the injecter rail.. but what is vapor lock?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll address the ZX cooling fan first. They weren't added to prevent vapor lock. They are an emission control device. Look it up. By definition, fuel injected cars can't vapor lock. The fuel pressure would prevent that from happenng.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 77 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.