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Z won't start


OniZ

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Ok I was having issues with the Z since I bought it with the car starting. The PO told me that the key was worn pretty badly so I had to hold it up and turn it to get the car to start (needless to say the process didn't make much difference). So anyway the car won't start now I check the wiring from the ignition, coil, dizzy, starter and battery everything is tight and wires all look fine. When I turn the key I hear the starter click (at least it sounds like it is as I'm in the car and can't be hovering over the engine bay at the same time.) I also hear a relay under the dash click too. Does anyone have any suggestions or know what this is before I take it to my local Z shop.

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To verify the operation of the starter by yourself:

1. Set the handbrake.

2. Put the transmission in neutral.

3. Remove the small wire that is attached to the starter via a spade terminal (push-on).

4. Make your own remote starter by using a piece of 16 gauge or larger wire crimped at one end with a female spade terminal, at least 24" long.

5. Attach the newly made wire to the male spade terminal on the starter being careful NOT to touch the big exposed terminal right below it (battery positive terminal).

6. Now you can touch the other end of the newly made wire to battery + and the starter should engage the flywheel and turnover the engine.

If all you get is a click, then first verify that you have at least 12V at the battery WHEN you are trying to start the engine. If you got a healthy battery then change the starter.

If the starter works fine during your test, then your PO is probably correct that the ignition switch is going bad.

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Ok thanks I'll do that also could grounds play any part in this problem?

Yes a bad ground could cause the same problem. Check the connections at the battery. If the cable connections are dirty or corroded this can cause a bad connection and when a load is applied there is not enough voltage to power the starter. If a cable is split or you find that it is corroded. Replace the cable. It could also be just a solenoid , the small cylinder attached to the starter. This is the thing that when activated puts the starter in gear and at the same time powers the starter motor. If the connection inside this thing becomes worn enough that it only partly connects the power the starter motor cannot run. Therefore spin the engine.

If all this stuff is good then the ignition switch could be the problem. It is located at the end of the switch that you put the key into. It can be separated from the rest of the switch and just it can be replaced instead of the whole switch. This way you can keep the original key.

I put my starter on a relay so that the switch only has to power the relay and the switch will live forever and the starter gets full power from the relay.

Gary

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i hate to admit this, but after buying my roadster the z is sitting for the most part under a car cover in our driveway. having had back surgery three weeks ago, i can't remember the last time my z was cranked. four or five weeks i am guessing, since it was last started.

yesterday i go to crank it, and it won't do anything. we get the jumper cables out, and after a few minutes, it starts up after turning it over several times.

i drive it down the road on an errand, and leave it running while i step inside. then on to my next stop, and this time i shut it off. go to crank it again to head home, and it won't do anything again. ask for a jump start, and my buddy gets his cables, hooks them up to his truck, and this time it won't start. no click, nothing. we try hooking direct to the starter, and still nothing. so three guys proceed to push my car and we make a rolling start in second, and i manage to get home.

now i am asking, why would it start at home jumping it off, and maybe twenty or thirty minutes of running, it wouldn't jump start the next time??????

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Ok I ran the wire to the starter from the battery...still nothing so I bought a new starter and got nothing so I'm going to pick up a new ignition switch. All the connections your talking about I've already checked and all of them are fine.

Sleepyzzz that sounds like a bad day hope everything works out for you.

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Ok I ran the wire to the starter from the battery...still nothing so I bought a new starter and got nothing so I'm going to pick up a new ignition switch. All the connections your talking about I've already checked and all of them are fine.

Sleepyzzz that sounds like a bad day hope everything works out for you.

Did you try the remote starter test with the new starter? If you did, then the new starter must of worked or you have a defective "new" starter (providing all connections are good and you have a good battery). You should get a successful test before buying a new ignition switch because this test isolates the starter by itself and if you can't pass this test, buying more parts at this point will not make the starter work any better.

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I went to the junkyard today to pick up a ignition switch but no luck so I installed the old one again and tested it just for the hell of it...the car turned over but I forgot to turn my pump on and the car ran out of fuel. So I went to start it again and got the same thing.

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OK ONIZ

We all like to solve our own issues because it helps us to be better trouble shooters. But now it's time to take it to a true professional. Words of advice though, never buy electronic parts from a junkyard. They may be in worse shape than what you already have and you could end up with a bigger issue than you currently have. The ignition switches are not universal. They have a different circuit between the fuel injected and carburetted models. If possible find someone that specializes in Z cars. More often than not they will let you watch while they fix the problem. They generally appreciate the owners desire to learn about his vehicle and if you pick their brains enough some will even give you preferential treatment. Otherwise you may just throw many $$$ in parts at the problem and never fix it properly. Good Luck

2MUCHZ

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The ignition switches are not universal. They have a different circuit between the fuel injected and carburetted models.
Actually, the electrical portion of the switch itself IS pretty universal. It fits all Zs and ZXs from '70-83. The wiring differences are in the wiring that connects to the switch, not the switch itself. New electrical switches (not including the ignition lock) run about $35.
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Went to napa today and got the right part for about 31 bucks so not to bad. Installed it and the car starts like a champ. Thanks to all of the other Z guys for your support and knowledge, I appreciate it.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Did you try the remote starter test with the new starter? If you did, then the new starter must of worked or you have a defective "new" starter (providing all connections are good and you have a good battery). You should get a successful test before buying a new ignition switch because this test isolates the starter by itself and if you can't pass this test, buying more parts at this point will not make the starter work any better.

replaced both cables as mine were not that good, and I still need to pull my starter and get it rebuilt. i did get the z to crank with jumper cables yesterday, and put some time in it driving around town. my car should be good to go,once i have the starter taken care of. glad to hear that you got your z running too OniZ

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