Datsun 240Z Barn find Restoration! cont.

[mattbibbey]

I didn't buy it. Couldn't assertain whether or not the hatch and bonnet would fit. Oh well. Always on the lookout will be another mantra i suppose...

[HS30-H]

Matt,

I'm sorry I could not answer you more promptly, as I was away for a few days and am now trying to catch up.

I'm glad that you didn't buy the 260Z that was on ebay, as I think it would have been a mistake. Yes, the bonnet and tailgate from that late 260Z would have fitted your 240Z, but the doors would not. Cutting it up to use as a donor for chassis / bodyshell parts would have been a lot of work, and many of the sections are different anyway - even if they were sound enough to be used.

Have you uncovered the 'air tubes' on your car yet? I'm afraid that if the rot is as bad as you describe ( you mentioned the radiator support panel is bad too ) then you might need to sit down and think about this car as too much of a moneypit to be worth continuing with. Even if you do find the chassis rails, air tubes, rad support and other sheetmetal that you need, it all still needs to be attached properly and you still end up with something made Frankenstein style. It will cost thousands, for sure, and then you need to paint and trim it.....

My advice would be for you to consider sourcing a similar-year car with a sound bodyshell to put the RHD parts from the green car onto. If you source a complete LHD car, you will be able to 're-shell' your RHD and save a lot of time and money into the bargain. In the long run, you will be left with something that is better than the possibility of a patched-up mess or even an uncompleted project ( been there, done that! ).

There's what I think is a good candidate on ebay in the UK at the moment: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250500841929&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Although I don't know what that car will eventually sell for ( possibly around £3,000? ) I think it would not take long for you to spend the same amount on your car and for it still to be no better. A pair of good, sound and unrusty 240Z doors will easily change hands for £600 in the UK these days. Add in a sound bonnet and hatch lid and you'll have no change out of £1,000. Professional repair of your originals will likely cost just as much, if not more.

I'm betting that most of the suspension components, brackets and pipes on your UK car will also be pretty much rotten. The USA car would likely be much better in that respect too. Don't underestimate what the whole thing can end up costing you if you go ahead with the rusty UK car.

Sorry to sound like the messenger of doom, but I'd like to try to guide you away from taking on something that you might never be happy with.

Cheers,

Alan T.

[Montezuma]

I think Alan might be on to something. I am shocked by the rust in your car. If you are willing to do all the welding in of the new parts and spend the money then go for it.

[mattbibbey]

I couldn't agree more alan! And no worries about the reply. I was doubting whether or not to buy it at an early stage any way .

The more time i spend on the car the more encouraging, rust free stuff i find. I believe that i've discovered the worst of it now so that's the air tubes ( which may be repairable, i think they're holed and not totally shot away), that front right chassis member that the picture shows by the sway bar, the floor pans and the rad support panel, small patches under the drip rail above the doors. other than that there's just the odd small bit here and there.

My doors are in mint nick with not a patch of rust on them. The wings are rust free too. The car going backwards from the fire wall really, isn't too shabby. The only rust visible from inside the car is the floorpans, granted they're pretty bad.

I'm in the fortunate postition where my friend (also in the army) and his father, used to restore classic cars for a living so they will help me free of labour charge as his old man is retired now and it will keep him occupied. Plus if i need a cash injection, i can always volunteer for a tour of afghanistan! I have to go anyway, might as well use the money for good. Haha.

I am a realist and i fully understand the implications of all that needs to be done so i haven't ruled out the idea of getting a different car.

I am quite overwhelmed by everyones help and advice so i thank you all!

Matt

[J Shara]

The air tubes on my car were fairly rotted too, but i got the ones currently on the car from my parts car, i shelled out i think around a grand just for the body shop guys to cut these off the orange car and weld them to the white car.

[mattbibbey]

when i finally get the wings off my car, and everything else, how do i go about cutting out the old chassis legs and welding in the new ones? i'm a competent welder but i'm not sure on the best method and order to do it. If anyone has done this before i'd be grateful for some pointers!

Matt

[EScanlon]

Ahhh... English terms and Yank terms.

I know "wings" = "fenders", but am at a loss to for "legs". Unless you're referring to an old ZZTop song, in which case I'd suppose you're referring to the tires (tyres?).

I'm not trying to be offensive, but could you elucidate on "legs", that being the term that has me at a loss.

In very broad general terms, measure between key alignment points, measure and compare to the FSM (Factory Shop Manual) dimension sheet... you may have to do some basic number crunching, and clamp, support and otherwise rig up a frame to hold it all together before you do your first spot weld to hold in position. Then once you've done enough of these to hold the pieces in position, re-measure and adjust if necessary.

With your experience as an armourer, you know that it only takes a gnat's width to cause problems.

Hope this helps.

E

[mattbibbey]

Yes, unfortunately i do know only too well about small things making big problems haha!!

The leg i was refering to is the front portion of the chassis member, the part running from the front towing eyes to the floor pan supports. The part that includes the sway bar bracket, the engine mounting brackets and so on. I found some from a UK company fpr 300 pounds each. datsun 240Z parts aren't common here.

Thanks for the heads up about measuring before and after the spot welds! Probably would have overlooked that.

Thanks

Matt

[mattbibbey]

Not sure if I mentioned that I may (perhaps only in the short term) rescued my dash board. I used some boot polish, it isn't sticky or slippery but i'm going to leave a test piece in the sun for a couple of days. See how it turns out. Any other ideas?

[EScanlon]

Wear dark clothing when you're near your dash.

Seriously, if your UK boot polish is anything like the boot polish I remember from my Air Force (US) days, there's a bunch of wax and other petroleum distillates in it. As such, when it gets HOT, as black tends to do, it will get soft (unless it is an extremely thin film) and smudge anything that comes near it.

As an alternative, don't use anything with Silicone in it. Here in the US we have Armor All, which DOES have Silicone Oil in it.

Armor All unless it is used.... religiously, that is, on a very strict and fixed schedule, is NOT good for vinyl. There will be those who swear by it... I used to myself. The problem isn't WHILE you are using it.... it's when you don't do it for some time. Kind of like Heroin... you think everything is psychedelic and cool... until you go cold turkey. Then the problems creep in, cracks, shrinking, discoloration, chalkiness... need I go further?

I've been using several products to try to ascertain the one that gives the best result, and while results vary, others have their choices as well. That we're on different sides of the "pond" (and I'm on the "left" side of the US as well ...on the map not politically), makes it difficult to recommend one product over another.

Turtle Wax used to sell a product called Clear Guard. Excellent stuff, lasted forever... they took it off the market... poor sales, the product was too good. Clear Guard left a nice matte shine that repelled dust, lint and lasted for MONTHS.

POR-15 sells one called Boss Gloss... again very nice, but don't put it on anything you don't want to be extremely slippery... seats, steering wheels, rubber foot pads, you get the idea. Doesn't last very long, but it gives an outstanding shine... but it IS shiny, and IMO seems to catch small dust particles easily.

Protectant 302 is purported as SPF 30 for vinyl. I bought it at a shop that sells Hot Tubs, Vinyl Pools and the like. What I've seen I've liked. Lasts a good time, and you usually find yourself re-applying because it looks good and not because it's faded away (except for seats which are being wiped down with your clothing... no stains or problems there either).

Meguia's Leather and Vinyl Protectant is also an easy to apply and use product. I've used this on the Roadster's vinyl top with good results and haven't found a need to switch, it's also relatively inexpensive compared to the other ones. Biggest drawback seems to be that after a week or so, it tends to "evaporate" and leave a non-shiny surface which will show you how evenly you did or did not apply it.

Mother's also has a Leather and Vinyl product, but I have not tried it yet.

Others will no doubt chime in with their preferences and why.

But to clean off your dash board, use some Mineral Spirits (oil-based paint thinner) NOT Lacquer Thinner (that would dry out the vinyl), then use a soft spray on degreaser like Simple Green, or the like to remove the last of the oily residue. Apply your vinyl cleaner/conditioner and you should have a nice finish.

FWIW

E

Edited October 4, 2009 by EScanlon

[mattbibbey]

Well i'll definately be able to get hold of the meguia's product range so i'll keep it in mind so thanks.

Does anyone know a person who wouldn't rip me off for all the kits that i need to recondition the brake master, clutch master, brake calipers, and so on and so on? Alternatively, does anyone have these items they'd sell to me?

[ChrisZ]

Once again i have to send you to Zclub and get hold of mister F, he is a vendor there and being you are in the UK, i think it will be your best choice.

He have a exchange rate that is 1:1 but he takes care of tax and shipping from US, it's not my first choice and that is because i have to pay international shipping once more if i buy from him.

Chris