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TomoHawk

Removing throttle linkage fromn engine

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How can you get the throttle torsion rods off the intake on a 280Z? I got a tin-zinc plating setup so I can plate exposed parts like that.

thxZ

Edited by TomoHawk

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It's been over 7 years since this questions was asked, but it is as relevant back then as it is right now for me :) There are those rings on the throttle tension rod that prevent it form sliding in and out of the standoffs that hold the throttle rod. The rings are held in place on the rod via small screws. Undoing those screws, however, still does not allow me to pull the rod as the rings are still stopping it. It appears as if I have to bent them out of shape to remove them form the rod. IS that really the process? Thanks in advance guys!

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It could just be me, but I can't picture what you're describing.  Is it on this picture?

throttle rods.PNG

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Zed Head, close, but if you would include the rest of the linkage image it would show my issue. I already removed the part that you have shown. Take a look at the attached picture. It's the two "ring" that are circled and pointed at with an arrow. As you can see unless I can remove them, that part of the throttle rod cannot come out out of the stand offs.

2017-02-10_13-20-51.png

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I see now.  Went out and looked at some of my spare parts also.  I'm 99.9% sure that the rod slides through those rings.  No need to bend them open, they're just there as stops/locators for the rod.  There's probably corrosion underneath, just like on the exposed surface of the rod,keeping them stuck in place.  If I were removing it, I'd spray it with WD-40 and shine up the rest of the rod a bit with Scotchbrite,then tap it through the standoffs and the two retaining rings.  If you're restoring it for appearance sake then your dilemma is removing the corrosion without marking up the rod.  

You might also stick a flat bladed screwdriver in to the gap and open them up just slightly, within the elastic limits of the metal.  The rod will probably slide easily through them then.  I'm sure it's meant to slide through though.

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Fantastic. Thanks Zed Head. I wasn't sure if they were design to slide out or not. I removed the retaining screws but they must be stuck in place due to light corrosion. I will try your method.

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I haven't done it myself, but I second Zed's assessment. Once you loosen the screws, the collars should slide along the rod.

Does the screw thread into the collar itself, or is the hole in the collar a through hole and the screw threads into the throttle rod? I ask because if the screw is threaded into the collar and the tip of the screw presses against the rod when tight, it may have kicked up a burr where the screw tip deformed the rod.

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Yeah, then there might be a burr on the shaft as well that might complicate matters. Let's hope they put a flat spot on the shaft where the setscrew contacts to account for that.

Pet peeve of mine - Setscrews directly on shafts with no provision for dealing with the burr...  :finger:  Hopefully they didn't do that.

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Wait a minute... I just took a quick look at mine, and the screw goes all the way through. So if the collar is threaded on the FAR side, then there shouldn't be any burrs. It just passes through a hole in the rod and picks up the threads on the far side.

And the collar is split. I can't believe you can't just tap that thing off. Famous last words from someone who hasn't tried, right?  :)

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I fixed the small problem in the linkage that I had from working pn the throttle.  I added another spring so it would close every time.

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I'm going to take this post in a bit different direction since the issue is resolved now. Now that I have it off, what are my options on refreshing the throttle linkage (this applies to all linkage components from the fire wall to the TB)? If I paint it outside of the stand offs, than  I will have hard time putting it back in and the paint will most likely get all scratched. I potentially could paint it after installation to make sure that the two spots where the linkage sits in the standoffs are not pained. I know I could metal coated it to return it to it's original golden color, but I don't know of a local place that could do it and I don't think I want to eat the cost of sending it somewhere else in the country. I'm assuming that if I bring fine sand paper to it and metal polishing paste, it will expose the metal and make it prone to corrosion in the near future, would you agree? 

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The intake manifold is a kind of cheap cast aluminium, so it will polish, but eventually oxidize from the heat.  The only ferrous parts are the supports for the fuel injection system.

I think if you just work carefully, you can do it.  You might apply some masking tape to prevent scratches.  I also think you should consider plating the throttle parts as they will rust too.

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On my first rebuild I polished all that stuff and didn't coat it with a sealer.  Now my engine looks like crap, the injector hold down plates are rusted, everything aluminum has oxidized like Tomohawk says.  If you polish it, coat it with something.

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What is available that you can use as a sealer?  Some kind of high-temperature, satin-finish, clear paint?  Powder-coating isn't appropriate for everything.

A good metal wax is usually a good thing.  It cleans, seals, and protects polished metal surfaces.  My preference is Collinite 850.  Be aware that most "Metal Waxes" are just polishes.

Edited by TomoHawk

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I keep asmall bottle of the Collinite wax in the car, and I give things a wipe if I go to a show or cruise, after it cools, obviously.

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