how much wwelding did/does your Z car need

[St.stephen]

I'm in the middle of putting floors, rockers, repairing the battery tray and underneath, inner fender well patches, rear deck lip, and rad suppport patches, and door skins.

all in all I think I made out pretty lucky in comparison to some that needed floors and frame rails!

[mperdue]

I'm about to scrap a shell because of wasted floor pans and frame rails - because I found a nice clean body cheap. I've got a rust free hatch lid that I could cut out if anyone is interested. These can be hard to come by. I'm not sure how I would cut it out but if someone needs it let me know and maybe I can find a way.

As for your question, I'm hoping none!!!! I didnt see any significant rust at all on the new body! Yea!!

Michael

[hmsports]

My last 72's right t/c rod mounting point was completely rusted off. I purchased a replacement rail from Courtesy Nissan and cut it just forward of there. I cut the original rail off the car from that point back and welded things together with a sheet metal patch over the seam. I also had to replace most of the passenger floor - under the seat came from a donor car and was welded in - the foot well area was patched using 26 gauge sheet metal. Also had about 150 sq. in. of patch in the driver's foot well. Left rear quarter was replaced too. About 40 hours worth of work.

[24OZ]

I am happy to say NONE! It has never been welded and nor does it need any. This is quite rare for a car coming from England.:classic:

The car was heavily Zeibarted when new and still it ouzes out the seams in some places. It has done an excellent job in protecting it.

[St.stephen]

tracing my car back, It was originally built in june of 74 and was shipped from Japan to Lynne's Nissan here in good ole NJ. It made it's way out to CA to UCLA. Still has the 1975 UCLA parking permit on the bumper, than it made it's way back to NJ where last time it was registered was 85. Lots of road salt from the jersey winters and then sitting until I rescued it really took it's toll.

I had to cut out both floors completely. The drivers side was much worse than the passenger. It was rotted up into the toe board. The rocker was damaged as well and I said the hell with it and just cut out the whole rocker at the original welds. I only want to to do this ONCE on this car, so I am taking all precautions and going new whereever I can.

Next project once this one is done is a 71 240. This requested by my live in girlfriend.

She wants her OWN Z!!!!!

[kmack]

I had to replace the entire inner fender on the passenger side, from the strut tower back to the firewall, inlcuding the portions of the firewall, and front half of the passenger floor board. I also had to replace the right-side section of the rear hatch sill. And I can't forget the trouble I had replacing both rear bumper mounts! I think that's it, I could have done a few other things, but I got tired of welding so much!

[FinalAngel]

Apparently I lucked out on the recent 74 260 I purchased. The only area that could possibly need welding is the part where the hood is supported on the right side of the vehicle. It's sturdy enough to hold it firmly now but no point in not fixing it while I've got it apart.

But as far as floor boards mine are very solid, and the hatch area has a hole on each side but the largest of the 2 is only about the size of a small pen.

Only paid 2500 too

[St.stephen]

I think I am going to have to also run a small piece of angle iron or something from the front of the car along the lip that runs to the firewall that the cross member bolts to. that seem is beginning to show some areas of softness

[ZmeFly]

i bought mine in california:D

[FinalAngel]

i bought mine in california:D

Mine's originally from California :stupid:

[St.stephen]

Mine at one point did see CA

[Ivan]

I had a bit of surface rust on the inside of the floor deck. The only holes I had were at the rear of the door sills and the bottom of the boot frame