Best Long Term Storage for L24

[Marty Rogan]

I am removing the original, low mileage, numbers matching L24 from my '71. Replacing it with an L28 for more power on track days and to preserve the original motor.

What is the best way to prepare the engine for indefinite storage? I have seen all the write-ups on short terms storage and have done short term storage for many years. Just looking for suggestions on what to do differnt.

TIA,

Marty

[LanceM]

One thing for certain is to back off all of the valve adjustments so the springs are not compressed. Before pulling the engine I would probably change the oil and run it up to temp to make sure it has been all through the engine. After it's out I would pull the plugs and oil up the upper cylinders then replace the plugs. Don't know that there is much else you can do besides keeping it in a dry place and maybe bagging it to keep it clean.

[george71z]

I have an L24 on a stand in my garage, and put electrical connector dust caps in all the holes to keep bugs and small critter types out. Also good for blocking moisture.

[=Enigma=]

Not sure if you're storing an engine complete with carbs, but another thing to do is to block off or remove the fuel line prior to engine removal and run the engine until it runs out of gas. You don't want that old gas gumming up your carbs while it's in storage. If you have the older type float bowl with a drain screw, you can always empty them that way, but I'd still run it out of gas to make sure the passageways in the carbs are clear as well.

[240znz]

Marty,

My brother has just started his Series 1 Landrover after 12 years sitting out in the garden. The local Landrover club advised him to pour diesel down the bores instead of oil. It seems to have worked or the tolerances in those old things are massive.

[ZSaint]

I too have the original 240 engine for my '71 Z. It is stored on an engine stand. I did all of the things stated. I also turn the engine over every once in a while to make certain different valve springs are compressed. I think pulling the valve cover off every 6 months and lubing/greasing the camshaft is good. that is where these things rust up after long periods of 'sitting'.

[Marty Rogan]

All good comments and suggestions so far! I did run it up to full temperature before I put it away for the winter. I will definitely be changing the oil, backing off the springs and blocking off all holes to keep critters out. I will need to use the carbs on the motor I am using. I have an old set I could probably throw on there to cover the intakes, and hey, it gives me a place to store them too.

I am not sure about bagging it though. Seems like that could cause condensation. I could use an old blacket to keep the dust off, but let it breath. I planned to turn it over by hand once in a while to try and move the oil around. Tending to the cam is a good idea too. Don't want any rust forming on the lobes.

Is there some product available to spray on to prevent rusting, on areas like the fly wheel? I remember Datsun sprayed some gunk on emblems and other parts with rust potential when they shipped the cars over on the boat. I think it might have been called cosmolean?

Keep those ideas coming!

Thanks,

Marty

[ChrisA]

Hi Marty,

I took a intake/exhaust gasket to my local metal shop. They cut me a piece of 3/16 aluminum to match the outline of the gasket. I used the gasket and the aluminum to seal off the ports. I made my own for the thermostat housing hole and fuel pump hole. Left the spark plugs in the head. Capped off the block vent tube, heater hose barb(in the head) and breather nipple on the valve cover. I just used cheap little plastic caps from the hardware store. Before I did all this I lubed the upper cylinders (as others mentioned) and I sprayed the cam with white lithium grease and used my hand to smear it all over everything in the valve train. Hopefully minimizing any rusting due to moisture in the air that might get in. You and I both know how humid it gets in the Midwest.

I have heard of people getting those little silica desscicant packets and putting them in various places in a motor. But that might be unneccesary.

I also heard once of a guy who filled his motor with oil till it was at the oil fill cap on the valve cover. That seems like a lot of oil but it would sure stop rust!

Anyway, good luck with the project. I'll be interested in hearing about your different engine when she's in and running.

Chris A.

[Marty Rogan]

Yeah, I thought about the desicant packets. I was wondering about filling the engine with oil too! Can you imagine what it would be like draining that puppy? !

Like you have done, I think plugging up all the holes will be really important. Humid in the Midwest? YOU BET!

The project is coming along slow. I am waiting on some parts to come in. Mostly family obligations keep me from spending much time on it. I have been taking some pictures a long the way. I'll have to post some when I get it done.

Marty

[ChrisA]

I was wondering about filling the engine with oil too! Can you imagine what it would be like draining that puppy? !

Marty

I wonder how many quarts it would take!

Chris

[Ed]

I was wondering about filling the engine with oil too! Can you imagine what it would be like draining that puppy? !

I wonder how many quarts it would take!

Chris

Wouldn't it be more like gallons? Also wouldn't the oil spill out of the crankcase vent tube?