dear gods of light,

i noticed my headlights are very dull in color and really dull in brightness.... will current headlights fit in the original sockets? if so, what kind are they etc...

signed,

driving in the dark

i believe if you search the posts there was one recently about putting h-4 lamps which are an exact fit but they also did some wiring upgrades and had really great results

The general consensus is that you should repair or upgrade your electric system/wiring to get any improvement with lighting. The wiring exposed to the elements gets a LOT of corrosion, and the voltage AT the lamps is less, making them dull.

There is a great discussion about the Z wiring and headlamps in the latest issue of SportZ magazine.

Yeah, but you can't get SportZ mag in Cleveland, OH

Yeah, but you can't get SportZ mag in Cleveland, OH

Postal Service avoids Cleveland?????

Confused

Try Silvania SilverStar headlights. I've had them on my 810 for over a year now with no problems. They are nearly as bright as H-4s and require no electrical mods. But I would also check your wiring, fuse box, etc.

No.... I just want to buy the issues I like. The problem is that every magazine seller I visited doesn't carry that magazine.

I now have a new set of H-4 conversion euro lense lights on the Z (70')

They work awsome and install was a snap. Four philips head screws to remove the rear headlight assembly. Three screws remove the retaining ring on the bulb. Pull the bulb and unplug it.

I used the MiiG H-4 headlight Euro conversion kit w/ Zargon gas bulbs (zargon is one step up from zenon.) The kit also has a (Streetlights) bulb plug in it, but thats another story. DO NOT GET THE (DIAMOND CUT) housings!!!

THEY SUCK!

Its up to you (depending on how original you want to keep your Z) but most people like to cut a hole in the back of the head light assembly in order to access the new H-4 bulb for replacement and then they put a big rubber plug in the back to keep it clean and dry.

Your stock plug will attach perfectly to the new H-4 bulb. reassemble the headlight assembly and your done. It's really that simple.

Thankx guys!!!!

another question about these? Can the alignment be adjusted?

Yes, just like any othe head light

top vertical screw for up + down

side screw for left and right

it has the same form as a regular headlight, it just allows you to use a H-4 bulb instead of a halogen

Would you like any wiring diagrams for wiring relays straight from the battery to the headlights via relays, while only using 1 to 2 amps through the fuse box rather than the 15 to 20 that you are currently using. Which will also MELT your fuse holders over a small period of time. The new wires and relays will cost you significantly less than a replacement fusebox and harness, that is, if the car does'nt catch fire first.

the supply list is simple:

-wires-

2-30/40 2-way automotive relays (aprox $5.00 each)

4 ft of 8 gauge power wire w/ a 30 amp fuse holder (less than $10.00)

12 ft of 12 gauge power wire

3 ft of 16 gauge speaker wire

-connecters-

6-yellow 12-10 gauge nylon female fully insulated quick disconnects 6-blue 16-14 gauge nylon female fully insulated quick disconnects

6-blue 12-10 gauge nylon MALE half insulated quick disconnects

3-yellow 12-10 gauge nylon half insulated Ring terminals

Heat shrink is optional but will help protect your wires and connections from the elements.

If you e-mail me, I will give you diagrams of how to wire it all up w/ relays and all other supplys, it's the way that Nissan should have done it 34 years ago. It's fairly simple to do and will take an hour or so and will last for years to come. The less current draw you put on your system and fuse box, the longer it will last, the brighter the other lights on the car will become.

It's one of those (win/win) things. It is SOOOOO worth the few hours you'll put in to it, and all the money you'll save in the future.

wolfin32z@yahoo.com

Dave.