Jump to content

IGNORED

Headlight wiring


CrashNBurn

Recommended Posts

  • 8 months later...

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10305

When I did my conversion I wasn't aware of anyone who had made a harness already otherwise I would have gone that route. I will tell you that I measured the voltage across my headlights before and after and saw an increase of 1.5 V. I forget exactly what the values were, and since it was November in Colorado it was pretty cold so the battery voltage was lower than usual as well. But the point is that just changing the wiring in my case resulted in nearly a 35% increase in POWER for the lights. Even if I hadn't changed to H4s things would have been much brighter.

I highly recommend upgrading your wiring for anyone with a 73 or older Z.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is an update!!!

I still have the harness for the 240Z for sale, so if your interested in upgrading your headlghts in your 240 or if you want to get FULL power to the stock headlights, this is the only way to go.

wolfin32z@yahoo.com they are still $45.00 + $8.00 S/H = $53.00

Dave.

I am interested!!! How do you accept payment?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is an update!!!

I still have the harness for the 240Z for sale, so if your interested in upgrading your headlghts in your 240 or if you want to get FULL power to the stock headlights, this is the only way to go.

wolfin32z@yahoo.com they are still $45.00 + $8.00 S/H = $53.00

Dave.

FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT HAVE NOT USED THIS UP GRADE , BY ALL MEANS GET ONE . WITH OUT A DOUBT THIS IS A VARY WELL MADE UP GRADE THAT HE HAS MADE. I INSTALLD ON ON MY '73 AND ESCANLON HAS ON HIS '71 AND THE DIFFERENCE IS REMARKABLE . IT WAS A DIRECT PLUG IN . I HAVE INSTALLED H-4 LIGHTS AND ALL OF THE DASH AND TAIL LIGHTS ARE ALSO AT LEAST 40% BRIGHTER. WELL WOURTH THE $53.00 GARY

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gary, all,

That price is from last November. I PM'd Dave last week and he is gathering parts for a new batch, still 240Z only. The price is now $83 to your door. Prox, please let us know how that VB harness works for ya.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PrOxLaMuS,

Do you think you could post a sketch of the wiring diagram for that VB headlight harness? I called VB to ask then if I could get a copy to see if it was right for my car, by they don't have that info...

From what I know of the VB headlight harness, it's probably very similar to Dave's. It uses new connectors that plug directly into the back of the headlamp,totally bypassing the OEM wiring. Only there's just the one relay to power both lights. One relay should be adequate though, as a 60W lamp uses only 5 amps @12V, andthe relays go up to 20 amps. The 280Z uses a 10 Amp fuse for each headlamp, which is a little overkill, but maybe the Nissan engineers had a reason for that (like 7 amp fuses weren't cheap or common). You still have to get in under the fender and unscrew the back plate to the lamp to get at the back of the lamp tho.

I always wondered about plugging into the headlamp plug that's just behind the radiator support. I mean the round plug (on 280Z) with the three round pins. I haven't had a chance to measure the voltage at that plug, but I assume it's not at the 13 volts the battery has.

Since the headlamp power comes straight off the battery, I wonder where the voltage loss is from. In that circuit you only have the one fuse link, with its two (connections). Maybe just replacing that segment would be a significant improvement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well for one.. the wiring is short.. and it was tough to get it to stretch across the engine bay and have it tucked in a hidden

as for plug and play.. it does plug into the original headlights.. BUT.. in order to put the connector through the rear headlight casing I needed to CUT the plug off and re solder it....

no way I could have gone around..

other than that.. very easy to install..

ohh and to hook it up to the high beams and low beam headlight switch I used the passenger side plug.. which DIDN'T FIT..

where the wiring plugs into the headlight it uses a rectangular 3 prong plug. When I cut off that plug I had the 2 spare plugs since I used my new ones.

where the headlight SWITCH plugs into the headlight harness it uses a circular 3 prong. SO basically I cut off the round plug and used the existing rectangle 3 prong from the back of the headlight and soldered and crimped that on. and it worked out great..

so the harness and relays work great... ugly yellow wiring which sticks out.. and it took some modification as expected ... but it works!

I'll take a pic of the diagram tonight

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TomoHawk,

Dave's post from 09/26/2004 contains a pic that shows his prototype harness plugged into those connectors by the radiator support. Unfortunately, he has no source for the round 280Z type. So if you would like a VB harness to cut up and install like Prox has, I will sell you one cheap.

Prox, thanks for the update. VB's ad ("no cutting required") was a little inaccurate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the VB catalog, pg. 51, it says

"this Heavy-Duty Harness is complete with separate relays for low and high beams and features OE style headlight sockets for easy installation with no splicing or cutting required."

from the sound of that and and Prox's description, I would think that all you need to do is disconnect the old light connectors, plug in the new ones, hook up the battery wire & ground, mount the relays and connect the two wires for the switching from one of the old light sockets.

They just made the cross-over section too short.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeh thats all you need to do.. sort of..

the back of the headlight casing has a small small hole for the wiring to go through..

you can't fit a huge connector through there!!

so you have to cut off the connector, feed the wires through and re-attach the connector.

and it may be plug n play for a 240Z but definatly NOT a 280Z

The Relays and power was sooo easy.. that was already done.. i just needed to fine a 12v source!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also got the VB harness. The harnesses are for Toyotas with H4 lights. That is the only explanation I can find as to why they are so short. I would hate to waste my $30 not to use it.

Prox, I would like to see some pics as how you did yours. I read your posts and I might have to be out looking at my car to see where you are talking about with the switch harness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i tried pulling the wires out of the connectors but i couldnt seem to get them out.. even with a pair of needle nose pliars and a small screwdriver...

no luck..

i didnt want to break the connector.. so i just cut the wires.. no biggy

i'll take some pics tomarrow.. my day off... for the wiring

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMO, even though it's more expensive, Dave's (Zs_ondabrain) harnesses' are decidedly the way to go.

Sorry, but to stick a deflated New Years Blow Pipe in fluorescent yellow in my engine compartment .....

Dave's arrive properly spaced, wrapped, sealed and ready to install. The hardest part of the installation is getting down on the ground to connect to the existing wiring going to the headlights with OEM style connectors. After installation your lights are NOTICEABLY brighter even in the daytime.

If you're going to be changing the headlight bulb / housing itself that's the time to address changing out the wiring from the bulb to the connection to the new harness. But you don't need to change the connection wires even if you DO change your bulb / housing for a higher power one. That's because you shouldn't be overloading with the new harness, and you don't HAVE to pull the headlight acorn out.

From the looks of it, it looks as though you ran it all the way to the bulbs. That's a lot of work.

I'll see if I can take some pictures of my installation of Dave's product.

Enrique

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't you just hate it when the American companies get this stuff that was "translated" into english from Japanese? I would think that somebody at VB would inspect this product and notice the Instructions SUCK! And then work out with whomever printed the instructions, something understandable in English. They probably had engineers faxing back & forth over the pacific, but nobody bothered to proofread the stuff, and notice it doesn't make sense to those in the U.S.

It's understandable if the product was being sold by a Japanese company, and shipped to the U.S., but VB is in KANSAS! :devious:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...They probably had engineers faxing back & forth over the pacific...snip...

It's understandable if the product was being sold by a Japanese company, and shipped to the U.S., but VB is in KANSAS! :devious:

I doubt if they were consulting with anyone in the U.S.. More than likely, it was a vendor in Japan that saw a "need" and produced something for that need. As far as writing instructions, they did...in Japanese. As Alan will attest, the Japanese language in written form consists of symbols that convey an IDEA and not specific words (and I may be completely off base on this, I've got a tooth that's getting a root canal next week so I'm completely punchy). The main point I'm trying to make is that it would be very difficult to effect a LITERAL translation to English from the written Japanese.

Add to that that the "typical" response to translating into another language by ANYONE seems to be one of "Pull out the English - XXX dictionary and translate each word.". After all, how hard can it be?

I've seen translations into Spanish from English which were absolutely horrible, to the point of being ludicrous and worse of all, difficult if not impossible to understand. This was from English to Spanish. Conversely, I've seen Spanish to English and have had the same experience. I've no doubt that if I could read the original Japanese I'd "see" what they meant to say, and probably even pick out which words should have been changed to make it more intelligible to the English speaking buyer, BUT you have to remember that most companies balk at paying someone $200 a page to translate something that they think they can do "just as good as".

As far as VB is concerned, they're just re-selling something that there's a demand for. But I doubt that there is enough demand for them to justify having the instructions translated professionally.

Besides, if we believe the typical stereotype about men, the only time we need any "stinkin" instructions is when we've bollixed it all up and need to fix it before the wife gets home.

ROFL

E

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In your last picture Prox, you can see that it says TOYOTA. No where on the box does it say Nissan/Datsun. I am not sure what to think about VB. They have such good prices, but the people who work there is another chapter. I got my freeze plugs from them and the bag was 2 plugs short. I had to pull the ones I needed off my spare block. Some of the products they sell look cheaply made as well. IMO. :ermm:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.