Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,087 topics in this forum
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- 0 replies
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I've seen this asked on another site, (or maybe this one) but cannot locate it for the life of me. About three weeks ago I changed my upper and lower hoses on the radiator, did a flush and added new fluid to the radiator and then filled the reservoir up. Checked it a couple days later and the reservoir was low. Two days later found that one of the hose clamps was leaking. Fixed that and thought the problem to be gone. Today I find that the reservoir is empty. The radiator is full of fluid. I haven't had any smoking and the oil looks greatmstill nice and brownish tan and smells like oil. The oil cap and the cam lobe that can be seen inside is also in great shape. What's …
Last reply by Pomorza, -
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- 7 replies
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I am going on assumption here, and i would like someone else's input if i am correct. I have been getting alot of oil leakage at the intersection of my tranny and engine. It seems to be affected by the rpm. Would this be correct to assume rear main seal? I just rebuilt the engine with all the seals new, what did i do wrong that could have caused this, I am considering pulling the engine but don't want to of course. If thats what has to be done then fine. Not happy right now. :mad: Frankie
Last reply by Frankensteinz2, -
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Can I run my late '74 without a ballast resistor if I upgrade the coil, or will it fry the pick up coil and/or transistor ignition unit? From what I've read, the coil can't handle the extra power, so I will replace that with a Crane Fireball or something similar. This is for the LeMons car and I'm out of time to try to find the source of the problem. If I can't figure it out soon, I need to remove the resistor. The resistor checks out fine, but the only way I can get decent voltage to the resistor is to disconnect the "start" wire to it. When I do that, I get 12.5V, at both ends of the resistor and at the coil. With everything hooked up, I get 10.3V to the resistor …
Last reply by five&dime, -
- 6 replies
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Short version: My car has blown the same fuse three times in the last 2 days -- the fuse for the voltometer, map light and dome light. I believed the issue to be a short in the door-jamb switch, and I -thought- I'd rectified it. New issue: No parking lights/running lights or dash lights. I'm digging around in my wiring diagram, absolutely blind. Stupid question: is there a fuse for this? Long version: I started having electrical troubles after I put in a new starter (the old one was starting to grind, so I figured $35 was worth the extra state of mind). The aforementioned fuse (voltometer/dome light/map light) blew for the first time, but only blew at night after runn…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
- 6 replies
- 2k views
Here's the background. My barn find LeMons car is a 74.5 260Z that hasn't run in 15+ years. I swapped the carbs to SUs, cleaned the fuel system, tore the engine down and installed new gaskets. It fired right up and ran great (no tuning yet). That was Monday night. Tuesday night, after touching nothing, we went to work on the car and cranked it over. It fired right up, but died as soon as we stopped cranking. I got out the FSM and traced every wire back. I found that the black/blue wire is hot when cranking which bypasses the secondary resistor and gives the coil more voltage. That all checked out. Here are the specifics from testing: Battery +12V Black/white wir…
Last reply by Jeff G 78, -
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went i bay the car theare was nothing no plugs no wire i really need the order:stupid:
Last reply by ezzzzzzz, -
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Hi, im kinda new to this forum. I just recently bought my 240z and have put a ton of effort into making it run (It ran about 2 years ago fine based on what the guy who sold it to me said). At first I wasnt getting any fuel but after swapping all my hose's, hardlines, filters and pumps I finally got fuel squirting from the carbs. Sad to say that wasnt the end of the issues, it still wont start. Now after allot of inspection I noticed the guy had done allot of fiddling with the electrical stuff behind the dash so much so its hard to use the diagram to track colors because he changed half of them. Well anyway I was wondering if some one could please help me by posting a few …
Last reply by FastWoman, -
- 4 replies
- 858 views
My question wich one is better? For years I was under the impression that the 260 intake was bigger and better that it would give you better performance. But now I was told there is not difference. To be honest I put them next to each other and it did not looked bigger. Can you guys educate me on this please. Thank you:stupid:
Last reply by Mr Camouflage, -
- 0 replies
- 857 views
The digital fuel meter goes on and off, when on marks accurate and the rest of the console is on (speed and rpms). Checked the floaters with a voltmeter and everything ok (2 to 4 volts aprox). Any idea whats going on ?
Last reply by CuadroS, -
- 2 replies
- 951 views
when i set #1 @ TDC....the timing mark is aprox. 90 degrees out from the 0 degree mark on the crank......i assume the harmonic balancer is defective??? am i correct???or is there adjusment like the cam timing and its in the wrong position? what degree of advance should i use for the ignition timing? the engine block casting # is F54 followed by a 0701A, s/n is L28 513794 the head casting number is P90 the computer is A11 or All-604 420/ L28 / 8Z13 the engine does have a turbo also Is there a way for me to find 0 degrees on the crank without pullin the front cover....ie, is there a key way that is at 0 degrees Thanks, Ed G
Last reply by ktm, -
- 0 replies
- 835 views
when i set #1 @ TDC....the timing mark is aprox. 90 degrees before the 0 degree mark on the crank......i assume the harmonic balancer is defective??? am i correct???or is there adjusment like the cam timing and its in the wrong position? what degree of advance should i use for the ignition timing? the engine block casting # is F54 followed by a 0701A, s/n is L28 513794 the head casting number is P90 the computer is A11 or All-604 420/ L28 / 8Z13 the engine does have a turbo also Is there a way for me to find 0 degrees on the crank without pullin the front cover....ie, is there a key way that is at 0 degrees Thanks, Ed G
Last reply by rallylife69, -
- 10 replies
- 4.5k views
Hi Folks, Searching the forums, it's clear this isn't the first time a fan blade took chunks out of a radiator. This radiator is going to the radiator shop for repair on Monday. Two quesions. 1. What would cause one fan blade to bend? 2. If I buy an electric fan to replace it, how/where do I hook up the wire? See pics. Thanks! db
Last reply by ezzzzzzz,
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