Help Me !!
This is the emergency HELP ME forum for those of you that are having troubles with your Z-Car and need immediate help.
6,083 topics in this forum
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- 10 replies
- 4.3k views
I have a 75 280 and when I am coming up to a stop and I push in the clutch or throw it in neutral the idle stays at 1500 to 2000 untill I am almost stopped then it drops down to normal idle and it only does it after it warms up. I know I dont have a vaccum leak, I checked with starting fluid. I'm thinking its the valve on top of the intake manifold with the big vaccum line going to it, I don't know what its called. Any suggestions, thanks Adam
Last reply by dillie327, -
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- 4 replies
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what size is crankshaft pulley bolt for a l26???
Last reply by Jehannum, -
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- 555 views
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Last reply by cnemitz, -
- 4 replies
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Hi, just got a 77 280 and the only problem Iv'e found is the heater always blows warm air. When I set it to the cold side it does not change. Thanks
Last reply by oifss2, -
- 3 replies
- 794 views
My 78 Z rear brakes lights are always on when the ignition is off. This is a new problem which occurred today. Any asistance would be appreciated. I disconnected the battery to turn lights off. Please help.
Last reply by Joaries, -
- 10 replies
- 1.3k views
i own a 260z, l26
Last reply by beandip, -
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- 749 views
Hey guys, I have a problem with my 280 77 model. Have been getting to much fuel. I just redone the head and put timing chain on. Still having problem with rich fuel intake. Not sure if I have wiring correct to the Thermotime switch and other senors, but believe I do have it right. The only thing that is bothering me about the wiring is the cold start neg. side seems to be the positive side or getting the current, if I am looking at it correct. When I start up the Z, I get gray smoke out the exhaust and has a gas smelling ordor. There is some moisture coming out the exhaust pipe. It starts with a light spray,then drip to the size of a small orange on the ground. O…
Last reply by MEZZZ, -
- 20 replies
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alrighty, so i recently bought a 73 240z project car and i am stuck. the problem started with no fuel, but the fuel pump was bad, so i swapped in a new one and other than the lines being clogged, that issue is resolved. then i checked to see if i was getting spark, and i was not. so i replaced the distributor cap, points, rotor (the guy that spins in the distributor), coil, spark plugs, and plug wires (installed correctly checked twice). still no spark. so i started to forum search to try to diagnose the problem. ==to check if i got spark or not i removed the plug wire from the #1 spark plug and put it close to the block, head, and spark lug to see if it arced. -I chec…
Last reply by crazyoctopus, -
- 4 replies
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I am getting close to getting my 77zt going, down to some detail wiring. Here's the deal. When I install the fusible link (alternator and ignition circut) I get what sounds like a relay or a solenoid actuating sound from the upper middle of the dash at approximately 5 second intervals. Key on or off, doesn't matter. It will go on as long as I have the fusible link in place. I can't seem to locate it other than it seems to be above and behind the air vent. With just a test light at the fuse panel (I was then looking for something else), when the unit closes, it draws enough amperage to dim the test light, then when it releases, it brightens back up. I can't seem to…
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
- 12 replies
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I have recently bought my 75 280z with fuel injection and it had a short on the fuel fuse. I determined through trial and error that it was my voltage regulator that went bad, bought a new one and solved the problem. Ever since then when the car starts to warm up it will shut off instantly. When the car cools down then i'm able to start it again. Another way to start it and keep it running is to pull the fuse again. Must be temperature related but not sure where to start. Any input on this problem would sure be appreciated. Thanks meats
Last reply by meats75z, -
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I just completed a bunch of work on my 260. Rebuilt cylinder head, timing chain, gear, headers etc. In any case I don’t know if the oil pump has ever been changed, I saw a high capacity oil pump on the motorsports website. They of course have the standard one as well. The high capacity one claims a 10 to 15 % increase in volume. Would this be beneficial in a basically stock engine, could it be harmful, or it just doesn’t matter Anyone?
Last reply by IdahoKidd, -
- 3 replies
- 686 views
Hi all, I'm having a problem with my 75 shutting down after it warms up a little for no apparent reason. I've changed the voltage regulator because it was shorting out the fuel gauge fuse. now that i have fixed that problem the car seems to run a bit then cut out. If i take the fuse out it stays on, once installed it cuts out after about 2 min or instantly depending on warmth. I have installed a new fuel filter thinking it might be a bit clogged, but still doing it. Any ideas???????
Last reply by EScanlon,
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