Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
-
- 7 replies
- 1.9k views
Maybe this has been covered a bunch but here is my attempt and installing the filter. 1st the reason why, my tank was renewed and a the time the prefilter sock was NOT replaced, so I have a open tube for the pickup. So the G-3 fram filter was picked to go between the tank and the pump inlet. 1st problem was fuel hose sizing, I think I had used either 1/2 or 7/16" fuel hose originally for the tank to the pump. the 7/16 seemed way to big to fit on the 3/8 filter inlet. I did not trust the hose clamp to make up the difference, perhaps it would but I wanted to try something different. So I am in the process of heat molding some 3/8 line over a 1/2" mandrel by h…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
-
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 1.7k views
Hi Z enthusiasts. I have a '78 280Z with 64k miles and is in stock condition. I have never had the problem I am having right now with it in the three or so years I've had it. It has just started to run somewhat rough, almost like it is not running on all cylinders, maybe down one. It holds an idle but is not as smooth as it used to be. When driving, it feels down on power throughout the rev range and no matter how much throttle is applied. At idle, it will gradually accelerate overall fine but still with somewhat of a stumble, and as mentioned down on power when driving. When more abrupt throttle is applied, the engine stalls for a second or so before it revs up. …
Last reply by Zed Head, -
1976 280Z. Car was given to us. Engine just rebuilt and put back in. Getting spark. Fuel pump replaced with known good unit (parts car that ran). Dropping resistors measure 6 ohms per troubleshooting guide. Relays replaced #2 injector does not measure 12V at ECU (all others do) brand new fuel filter i have pressure at the rail (loosen hose clamp and fuel sprays out). spark plugs are not wet when removed. i suspect that the injectors are not opening timing could be off as I did the rebuild myself brand new battery. car turns over, does not start. any ideas?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
-
- 8 replies
- 1.4k views
just posted this: i have a threads on here that chronicle the complete overhaul of the efi system on my 78 280, then i built a new motor and went w/su's so i have the whole system for sale - complete, soup-to-nuts, ready to bolt on and go.
Last reply by rossiz, -
- 61 replies
- 8.9k views
The original Bosch fuel pump check valve is NLA and I've been messing around with alternatives. The original check valve has a 10mm x 1.0 threaded inlet and a barbed outlet to accept an 8mm hose. Can't get it anymore... There are other Bosch check valves available with a 10mm x 1.0 threaded inlet, but the outlet styles are different. Not a problem! Here's the first alternative I've worked through. This one uses a 14mm thread taper seat style outlet. Bosch part number 1 587 010 539 Here's a pic of the stock check valve on top and the 539 on the bottom. Note that the pump end threaded portion of the alternate is longer than the original valve. It is so long, in fact, tha…
Last reply by hansonsaid, -
- 3 replies
- 2.1k views
Can anyone tell me what the size is for the drain plug on a '76 280z? The service manual doesn't give it. I found this size at hybridz (M16.4 - 1.33) but I'm not sure I trust it.
Last reply by ksechler, -
- 1 follower
- 11 replies
- 1.9k views
A friend of mine just finished restoring the body on a 280Z and when he was done, it wouldn't start. It appears the EFI harness has been hacked into and patched and we're thinking that if someone makes a replacement harness like they do in the Porsche world, it might be a best fix... Leads?
Last reply by the_tool_man, -
- 29 replies
- 9.8k views
my 78 280 reads very low vacuum (9-10 at idle) when tested at a manifold nipple at the back near the brake booster, but it picks way up to the middle of the green zone on my gauge when i rev the engine above 2K. i get almost zero vacuum at the ported nipples on the bottom of the throttle body. while the car seems to run well it bugs me... also i notice a slight idle fluctuation - from 700-900 in a constant, sweeping pattern. i have done quite a bit of work to this car: new head, good compression, i've re-built the entire manifold, replaced all lines, new injectors, new fuel filters, (new afm & ecu by PO) new pcv - the works. i've checked the fsm a dozen times and…
Last reply by TomoHawk, -
I have a 75 280 I've just fitted Throttle bodies and mapped injection along with a whole lot of engine work/mods A success pushing 245 bhp but every so often (well more often than not)) it holds back momentarily and surges back and forth as if it's losing fuel pressure. However it runs fine on the rolling road when the car is stationary So....What is in the tank that could possibly be interrupting the fuel delivery? Something come lose maybe?
Last reply by Mark Maras, -
- 12 replies
- 1.4k views
Is there a supplier where you can buy the wire clamps individually, or as a set? I think they are 3 and 3 1/2 inch clamps? Mine are all rusted, and can't be cleaned & plated easily. Worm-drive clamps are awful; they strip/slip after you tighten them. OTOH, can you get a complete set f hose clamps for the entire engine? Hose clamp count: 3 or 4- AFM ( 4 if you count the aftermarket cone filter) 4-Radiator 3- Valve cover breather 4- Aux air
Last reply by Zed Head, -
- 3 replies
- 1k views
The clip holding the connector onto the AFM on my '78 rusted and broke off, so I need to get some replacements- 2 or 3. I have it on temporarily; it's a good snug connection and I have the cable secured to the sheetmetal. Is there a good source of the clips, besides a replacement connector kit ($20)? Maybe there is a compatible source from another car that you will find at the JY? I wanted to take the connector off every couple years to clean and check the terminals.
Last reply by Darrel, -
- 1 follower
- 25 replies
- 3.1k views
Hi all: First post, so go easy on me. I don't own a Z yet. But I'm going to look at one (a '77 280) that may become available for sale. Current owner says he let the car sit for a couple of years, and the fuel went bad. He drained the tank and refilled with good gas. The car will start, but won't run for long before shutting off. He says it starts right back up and then dies again. He and I discussed, and theorize that there is crud (probably rust) in the tank getting sucked into the tank outlet screen and clogging it. If that theory is right, I assume the tank needs to be cleaned out, and maybe coated to prevent rust. I'm only beginning to learn about…
Last reply by EuroDat,
-
Recently Browsing 0 members
- No registered users viewing this page.
