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Looking for a 1.1 bar replacement radiator cap. Anyone?

I can’t understand why @Sean Dezart would shy away from any email. The S30 is his livelihood. Don’t care for making assumptions when we don’t have all the facts.

Whatever you're writing in your messages must be something he's avoiding. You seem reasonable and rational on this forum. Any reason he would be avoiding you? Not a good look for him if there's no good reason. Maybe your messages aren't getting through. Never know. This should bring him directly to this thread. Good luck. @Sean Dezart

The price would be helpful if you really want to get rid of them. Plus being able to turn them over with a cheater bar or something to to show they aren't locked up. You sell on ebay, prostore@ix.netcom.com? Kinda' tough selling motors that have been siting for 20 plus years don't you think?

If you haven't got money in deal I'd seriously think about MSA ceramic coated headers. I've got 6to1s on both my cars and very pleased after 10 years of running them with MSAs 2.5" aluminum, I think, to the back bumper. They have other configurations but I like the sound and backpressure of the the 6to1. It's loud but only if you chose. Stay out of it until you get away from neighbors and then who gives a flip. It sounds like a Jake break coming down the small mountains of the Appalachians I have close by. If the guy won't talk to you, it's not going to have a wonderful ending no matter what you pay him. Get out while you can.

If I was trying to sell them I'd supply mileage when removed, how well they ran, and the price. I assume that maybe you're just looking for offers? Good luck.

Ok, I've just sent him another PM on this site as well as an email.

I contacted him Friday and he emailed me back Saturday. I told him somebody on the forum was having issues reaching him.

They belong to me. All ran. 20yrs ago.

Yep, that's the email address I have been using to contact him.

As mentioned, I've already done that.

I bought an N42 that had been in machine shop jail for a few years, guy never came back for it and I paid maybe $200 for a newly rebuilt head with an oiler cam installed. Put it on and went about 5 miles and the god awfullest noise came from the valve train. Limped back home and found a lash pad had come off. Thank goodness there was no damage and @Jeff 78 280z talked me down off the ledge, told me how to fix it and I've not had to look back. Runs great every since.

Arguing with your machinist is worse than arguing with you doctor, he's always right no matter if he's wrong.

Aside from replacing a part that meets Nissan specs, another factor to consider might be that used Nissan is probably better than new aftermarket.

How much? Did you see them run or are you passing on information?

What's the general consensus on the ball joint, replace or rebuild. The manual says replace if the dust cover is damaged, however the dust covers are still available from Nissan. The specs for testing the ball joint are also in the service manual. I've managed to disassemble, clean and rebuild my original ball joints, any reason for not using them with a new dust cover and fresh grease?

I have 3 engines for sale. 240z with e31 head and dgv carbs 280zx N/A motor with cam and header 280zx Turbo engine All motors ran when pulled out. These are good motors for rebuilding. I also have a 1988 shiro 5 speed trans that needs a 2nd gear synchro and maybe hub.

Those run through the manifolds to warm up a cold set of carbs. They circulate coolant through the bypass lines on the passenger's side and then the thermostat housing. I think they are a potential leak waiting to happen so I have mine disconnected. It's plenty warm in Alabama so they add unnecessary heat through my manifolds. The bigger one near the windshield is actually a thermostat that closes the flow off when it gets to a certain temp and you're right about the front nipple, it goes to the thermostat housing. Here's a bunch of threads about it. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+intake+manifold+coolant+line+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&oq=240z+intake+manifold+coolant+line+classiczcars.com&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIHCAEQIRigATIHCAIQIRigATIHCAMQIRigAdIBCTMwNTQ5ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I have wheel and tires sets for 240z, 280z, 280zx, and 300zx cars. Some sets are OEM and a few aftermarket wheels. Most are in great condition. I set of early z cylone wheels not so hot Let me know what your looking for and I will let you know if I have it. Pick up only in Northeast NJ. Will be posting pics in the next few days. These have been in storage for 20+ years.

Thank you Gav.

Hey, I have a '73 240Z which was switched to round top carbs, and getting close to wrapping up the tank rebuild and starting to look at the engine. I've only managed to drive the car a handful of times since I acquired it due to ongoing work on it, but In the past I would need to crank for like 30-60 seconds before it would start, and until it warmed up if I didn't give it a little gas to keep the revs up a bit it would just cut out. Once the car was warmed up though it ran fine so I'm slowly starting to give the engine a once over. I noticed that on both sides of the intakes there are open inlets which look like they should have a hose attached. It seems like they might have been connected to the coolant system. There is a hole near the thermostat that's plugged near the inlet towards the front of the engine The one towards the front of the engine appears to be just open, and the one in the back seems like there might be some kind of spring mechanism closing a plate or something. I was curious if anyone could provide a bit more info on these? Should these be capped off? I did double check the crankcase vent hose in the middle and that is in decent condition.

Not disagreeing with you, had a quite lengthy discussion about the topic with him. He's rebuilt dozens of Z engines in the past so I'll take his word on it.

Thanks Chris. They look good.

I know you don’t want to hear this as well but he’s been very responsive about information and tracking my orders.

Sample size cannot get any smaller. I doubt that that's why they come out since the the space between the rocker arm and the valve/pad assembly would have to open up enough to allow the lash pad to pop out. No logical reason for the divot to stop that from happening. Besides the fact that many people have had that happen when they restart old factory stock engines that have been sitting for a while. Most people think it's caused by sticking valves. Maybe your guy sets his guide clearances too tight. But, he's the builder. Good luck.