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Thanks for that info CO. 👍

Actually, looking at that thermostat housing you have on your 1/70 is not from 73... It's from couple years later than that. 75 at least. It's got a thermotime switch and temp sensor for the EFI system.

I believe that hole on the 73 was used for the temperature switch for the EGR system. This pic is from 74 260, but 73 had the same thing:

After looking at some '73 240Zs on BaT, and your supporting info, I have to agree that you are correct. Also I noticed that "thick flange" one also has an extra fitting hole on the front, to the left of the temp sensor hole, that does not exist on the early thin flange housing. On my 1/70 that fitting hole has been plugged. Anyone know what it should plumbed to on a '73? Here's a pic of mine, fitting hole circled in red.

One last pic after washing and driving around for a bit. Thanks everyone for the help.

Regarding the LOWER thermostat housing, the conclusion I'm coming to is that indeed, the narrow-flange one is 11061-E3000 and is for 70-72 cars. It seems to have been replaced by the wider/tapered flange 11061-P0300. The micro-fiche seems to support this. Also here is a pic of the early 21K-mile BAT '71 car with the narrow flange housing.

Only 7…. All used, you’re welcome to a decent one

Cool. Seen that hole before on some housings, but never noticed it was threaded. Only ever seen the spark plug holder bracket go under the rear therm housing bolt. Let me see if I have one

I just noticed something related to the early vs later thermostat housing thing. The water outlet that bolts to the top of the housing, also has early and later versions. This pic is of my 1/70 car, with the water outlet from my 7/70 car sitting loose to the left. The early version has an extra tapped hole, circled in red, that I assume is to mount the bracket for the spark plug leads retainer. I noticed this when changing back to my 55 year old OE Yazaki date coded leads. I'm putting these on for car show season. Lol. I also noticed that my early car is missing the bracket that should go into the tapped hole. @zKars would you happen to have one? 🙂 Here's a pic of my 1/70 before I changed the spark plug leads. If you zoom in, you can see the tapped hole and no support bracket. And here is a pic of my 7/70 car before I took it apart for the resto. If you zoom in you can see the bracket, and no extra tapped hole in the water outlet. FYI, my 7/70 car is where the OE spark plug leads came from. Just for fun, here's a pic of my 1/70 (#957) with the 1970 date coded leads. If you zoom in, you can see the markings, sadly they are starting to fade. They do look much better being black. 🙂

(kind of like the consistency of a dried-out hot-dog bun) That is exactly what I have. Thanks for the input.....now to get some bump stops.

I worked with the show host, Tom Cotter, on a number of media events staged by a European manufacturer back in the late 1990's. Nice guy. Very knowledgeable, very enthusiastic, and seemed to know just about everyone in the business. Odd, in hindsight, that I don't remember us ever talking about Datsun and the Z (I had two at the time).

The stamped-metal spring cap, in its OE form, was actually manufactured as an two-part assembly' ('Assembly - Bumper Bound'), consisting of the metal part, along with a molded-rubber 'snubber' (some call it a bump stop) bonded to its underside. When new, the snubber piece started off feeling and acting like rubber. Unfortunately, the material didn't age well, becoming hard and crumbly over time (kind of like the consistency of a dried-out hot-dog bun). I'm pretty sure that the stuff shown in your photo is the remains of the snubber. These days, those snubbers are usually replaced with versions made out of polyurethane.

Here's the switch from my 12/70 car #17486.

FWIW, here what the 1970, 1971 & 1972 owners manuals show. We all know how accurate they are. Lol Fom = From. Lol

Here is a good discussion about hazard light switches. @zKars identified three versions, thanks for the pic. My #957 car has the one on the left that reads flash ,and my #6521 car (7/70) has the double triangle one, although some have told me that one is not correct for a mid 1970 car.

I liked the car. So, i put a comment.

Bot always do post or reply on latest post bro.

Yes, I checked the rear sway bar, I replaced its bushings there too when I overhauled the suspension. Thanks for the tips! I ordered the mustache bar bushings. I will probably need to replace my clutch master/slaves - they are original. My 'freshly' (10 years ago) rebuilt 5-speed from a ZX is giving me fits while putting it into reverse. With no engine running, I can't force it into reverse. With the engine running, I can rev up and shift. I am suspecting my clutch is not fully engaging? I also noticed I am missing my upper-stop bumper for the clutch pedal. I can't find that rod with a rubber stop in my spare parts box anywhere. I think it looks like a hood bumper stop?

Amazing enough to dig up a six year old post just to say that? @Mike Looks like a bot.

I like collecting this stuff. A few years back, a friend grabbed this old Nissan bag for me, from the Portland swap meet.

The one shown on the left without the base flange is early.

Very cool. When I picked up #957 last year it came with a great collection of Zed memorabilia that included the French version of your Canadian Brochure. No English on it at all, definitely for the Quebec market. I have posted this somewhere else, but I thought I should add it here as well.

Haha!! Unfortunately, it's not yet clear: inline6 - 16530 has the yellow Johnz1971 - 17770 has the black w3wilkes - 17486 has the yellow inline6, when you get a chance, can you double check what you have on your 16530 car?

The picture in my first post is the spring side of part #6 in Zed's post. @Patcon This is the rear strut, The front looks the same. The bearing at front and the spacer at back are there and in good shape. The insulators are also in good shape. But if there were bump stops, mine have perished and are missing in action😍 So my question is were there bump stops? Assuming there were what are the recomendations for replacements?

Yeah, I would start there. Remember that you need to compress the springs to the point where you could remove that center nut on the strut, just like when you are replacing strut inserts. With the springs that much compressed, you will be able to check everything in that top mount assembly. The nut tightness, the plastic spacer, the integrity of the rubber, etc. Do you have a rear sway bar? Another location that can easily produce clunk noises on small road bumps is the sway bar end links. But that's easy stuff... I assume you checked all that already.