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I have no clue what those are. Also, looks like you have 5 of them, which is an odd number.

Jim do you recognize that last part in my chrome post? @motorman7 ??

Good to know!

If you can do this when the brakes are stuck it will tell you if the rod from the booster to the MC is too long, causing the return port in the MC to be blocked. You'll have to do it while things are still warm though. Patcon is implying that the air expands as it gets warm creating pressure in the system. They make a tool for setting the booster rod length. It's a fairly common problem, especially with rebuilt boosters. If you stare at the parts long enough you can figure out other ways to get it right.

I believe that’s what he was referring to.

I never had any pushback and I have friends getting work done there now.

I was able to get these out with a small hook. I think the corrosion was holding them in. Once I got it open I found out I have the wrong rebuild kit. I have 46020-C6126, which is for the Tokico . This is a Nabco, which uses totally different residual valves. I think the kit part number is 46011-P6525.

So are you saying it could just be air in the system?

So I received my chrome work today. Most of it looks pretty good. I have a few things I'll ask about. Its expensive work! I have no idea how I ended up with four drivers and two passenger?? Two ash trays 2 sets of visor brackets & three cig lighter rings Four buttons for hatch locks and 2 gas doors I need some help ASAP! Is this a Datsun part?? I'm thinking no...

I would want an early car kit. No split in the rear carpet and different under the seats. Id didn't see that on their site...

If the fluid can't flow back and there's any air in the system they will get tight when driven

I wonder if those bids jump that much because the new bidder is bidding multiple times to clear somebody's previous bid but it only shows a bid when the winning bidder changes?

They did a nice job!! Those latches are tough to get plated well! Ive heard Precision doesn't really want to plate for restorations?

The 7-piece kit, black 80/20 loop. When I spoke to them they said that was better feel than “OEM” and better wearing that cut pile. It does have good feel.

I finally got the exhaust on my car and took it for a drive. After about 15 miles, the front brakes are getting hot. After it cools down, they're both free-ish, slight dragging. Leaving the lines on the master cylinder, I pulled it away from the master-vac. Then screwed the push rod in a ways. I also adjusted the clevis on the brake pedal a couple turns. Took it for another drive today, trying not to hit the brakes, after about 15 miles, got home, jacked the front of the car up, brake pads are tight against the rotors, both left and right. Ugh. Both the master cylinder and master-vac were rebuilt. I did put new pads after restoring the calipers. Whatever it is, it's affecting both left and right brakes equally on the front. When I found this car, it had a later master cylinder on it, with a long tip on the push rod. When I tried to bolt the older correct master cylinder on, it wouldn't fit, the push rod was too long. Fortunately, I had the master-vac that had the shorter push rod in it. I thought I measured everything right, and it bolted up. Anybody got any suggestions? I don't like spilling brake fluid on fresh paint! Why aren't those calipers retracting?

Under the “choose options”, Can you tell us which one you chose and why? I see they will send you up to 3 different samples.

They only showed two kit options when I looked for 240zs. There are several fabric and color options though. https://newarkauto.com/pages/search?Make/Datsun/Model/240Z/Year/1973 ••• By the way, does anyone know how to pull the residual valves (the black cones) out of a 15/16 Nabco master cylinder? The ones in the rebuild kit are not threaded. I’m assuming it’s some kind of press fit situation.

Just for completeness, the Nissan part number is 48750-E7705.

You can still just use the electrical component itself. Once you receive it you will understand what I mean.

Yarb, I suspect you are correct. That said, having lost a lot of last year with Koni front strut issues, I'm buying my way out of this distraction, asap. Get the whole for $60 or part for $32, I chose the former, and the order is already in the system.

Also to replace the back of the module, you do NOT need to remove the ignition switch. You can unplug the harnesses for the combo switch and ignition, remove the 4 bolts from the steering column bracket and lower the steering column enough to get to the screws.

@Matthew Abate Just went to the website and for my 78 model there are a ton of options. How were you able to narrow it down for your car on what to order?

IMO, The ignition key should not be your problem. It merely turns a blade that connects to the ignition switch module. I would just order the switch itself which mounts to the back side that’s held in with two small screws. You are going to end up with mismatched keys. Original set to unlock the doors and the new set to start the car. Just a suggestion

Thanks for you responses. For the cost of a replacement, I've elected to order a complete replacement. At my age I want to get her back on the road and not be distracted about the possibility of it failing again. Someday soon my Z will be my son's Z and he's not very mechanically inclined. Thanks, George

I had a 1978 igntion switch with that problem. I was able to fix it by restaking the copper contact with a chisel. You'll need to remove the switch and disassemble it. Or, it could be that the mechanical portion is worn and not turning the electrical contact far enough. I fixed that on my 76 by putting some extra twist in the rod between the mechanical and electrical parts. Once you get the switch out and examine it you can test either possibility with a meter. Stole this from ZCarDepot to show the staked contacts. https://zcardepot.com/products/ignition-starter-switch-240z-260z-280z-510 And here's the back side where the rod inserts.