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Are you running the Bosch factory pump? It worked perfectly on my 78 280. You could have a tank problem with the strainer. There was a good reason why they went with the 3/8 input to the pump and 5/16 output.

Weird how complex the whole fuel filter market is. Few details and what looks like poor conversion skills. 10 mm = 3/8"...not. Here's a couple from the local store, one with paper media, one with bronze. One about 4" long, the other undefined. One special order, the other available. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/spectre-performance/spectre-performance-fuel-filter/spt0/5965?q=Spectre+Performance+Fuel+Filter+-+5965&pos=0 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/trans-dapt/performance/filtration/fuel-filters--universal-/383bc52af696/trans-dapt-3-8-inch-inlet-3-8-inch-outlet-fuel-filter/tdp0/9177?pos=3

They're cheap too. Main problem is the 8 mm (5/16") nipples. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air,fuel+filter,6200

Don't overlook that the pressure drop is affected by the area of the filter media. Not just the pore size. So, a larger diameter filter will be less noisy. It would be interesting to try one of the big 280Z EFI filters as a pre-filter. There's a reason there so big. Lots of surface area in the pleated media. Also, if you're filtering to save the pump don't over-filter. The clearance inside the vane-type roller pumps is pretty big. Certainly greater than 20 microns.

That's allegedly too fine (20 microns) for a pre-pump filter. My pump was much louder with the Fram version installed than without.

You will probably bee surprised how it pops out. I’ve removed quite a few. There’s also a seal inside the cog shaft that prevents oil going into the cable. The ring and seal are still available.

Your prying on the captive nut not the cable.

https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-Complete-Line-Filter/dp/B000CSEUPG This filter worked perfectly for me. Changed over to Wix when the Fram was no longer clear. Give it a shot.

I assume you are not using a factory pump.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm worried about damaging the speedometer cable by pulling on its. I'll give it a try. I might try and find an old speedometer cable and improvise a pulling tool.

Yes. I used one for a while. But now I see where it can restrict flow enough to cavitate in the pump. Indeed the pump was noticeably louder with the G3 installed.

As @Zed Head said, pull the spayed ign. Off the terminal and measure the voltage. Black to Gand and red on the spade turn the key to start.

I think you are perfectly fine

AI at it again @Mike

Try threading the cable back on and use a small block of wood and a wide blade screwdriver and carefully apply force on the coupling on each corner. Might just pop it out.

Odjeca i aksesoari za hotele poplin tekstil po sistemu kljuc u ruke: uniforme za sobarice, recepcionere, SPA ogrtaci, papuce, peskiri. Isporuke direktno od proizvodaca, stampa logotipa, jedinstveni stil.

You need to add more detail. When, and exactly where? There are three "lugs". Actually two lugs and a spade. SteveJ is asking about the spade (black and yellow wire). With the key at Start. The 12 is a good sign though.

.65 at the bottom lug and 12 volts on the top lug

Slide hammer is not a bad idea, but good look finding that thread pitch. I have vague memories of using a rag and a pair of vise-grips, with a hammer tapping sideways on the pliers. Or maybe a big screwdrive levering on it. Anyway they do get stuck. Nothing special in there. I found a new Z store. TotalZPartsDatsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX 300ZX Speedometer Pinion Gear...NOS (new old stock) speedometer pinion gear full assembly, including the sleeve, seals, and the retaining pin. It has a 17-teeth gear & measures about 3 1/16" in total length. 18, 19, & 20 teeth ge...

That's 222° is at .050" lift if that makes any difference.

Are you sure? The diagram shows a left side and a right side, from the Hazard switch. It's a 78, I didn't look at any other diagrams. The Hazard switch is basically a gate between power and the flasher, and the lights. Since the flasher comes in to play the short to power has to include the flasher circuit. Basically it's just completing the circuit, like a short across contacts inside the switch. Interesting problem. For what it's worth, I erased about three different paragraphs about this problem. Writing about it does help the brain work...

That O’ring on the external assembly has probably dried up and that’s your issue.

Join the club and be a subscriber and that won’t be an issue. It’s keeping this site alive at this point. IMHO

When you say G3 are you referring to the fram?

That duration of 222 IMO is not aggressive enough to even worry about.