Jump to content

Blogs

Our community blogs

    • 1
      entry
    • 3
      comments
    • 824
      views

    Recent Entries

    Hi there.. trying to figure out what to do with a couple of z's that my mom owns. The first was a gift from her dad when she graduated high school... lots of sentiment involved and the second one she bought because the first one didn't run. Both have been sitting neglected for too many years... Long story short she cant bear to look at them sit any longer. Neighbor down the street said I should have them hauled off for scrap.. just wanted an honest second opinion from a fellow lover of all things Z. Thanks

    • 1
      entry
    • 5
      comments
    • 913
      views

    Recent Entries

    Hi all, am restoring my dad's 73 240 Z. Had purchased a dashboard replacement, but it doesn't cover the defrost vents. There are 5 brackets for screws under the windshield, but I can't find anything that fits here. Anyone have this issue, and ideas how to solve it?

    Thanks much,

    M

    • 1
      entry
    • 0
      comments
    • 914
      views

    Recent Entries

    Hello all,

    Car 1971 Datsun 240z HLS30-22328

    I am having rear turn signal problems.

    I had a hacked up front engine wire harness in the car. I changed it out to a new cleaner un molested harness. I have cleaned all connectors in the car with contact cleaner and a tooth brush and so on.

    The problem I am having is, when I turn on the signals to go left... Just the front LH signal comes on and not the rear. When I put the signals on to go right. The RH front signal works and both the LH and RH rear come on. I have tried switching out the signal switch and I have the same problem. I have by-passed the flasher unit and again I get the same response. I have tried as well 2 different rear wire harnesses in the car and yet again the same problem. Not even a slight response out of the LH rear signal at all!!!

    I have also put new bulbs in and gone over the dash wire harness and it does not look like its had any work or been modifyed in any way.

    If anyone has any ideas. I would love the help.

    Thanks,

    • 1
      entry
    • 3
      comments
    • 931
      views

    Recent Entries

    i recently put new front cailapers on and i cant get any petal stiffness at all

  1. Blog patar

    • 1
      entry
    • 0
      comments
    • 789
      views

    Recent Entries

    New to this, but looking for a posting I had seen on the web where someone had fitted a 240z with s2000 seats?

    • 2
      entries
    • 1
      comment
    • 865
      views

    Recent Entries

    any one can help me how to post in the forum im just an idiot i cant figure it out cant find where to go on how to post in the forum

  2. Blog Ken M1

    • 1
      entry
    • 1
      comment
    • 863
      views

    Recent Entries

    Ken M1
    Latest Entry

    I have a set of the original 15x7 american mags but need to purchase tires for them... I have a 1972 240Z and would like to know what size of tires I can safely put on without rubbing the fenders? Do not want a real agressive race tire but want it to look really good... Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Ken Mikkelson new to the forum.

  3. I will warn everyone up front that this is likely to be a long post. When I decided to install braided fuel lines in my 260Z I did not find a lot of info on this on the forum' date=' so I thought that I would write up my experience so that others wanting to do this could benefit from what my son and I have just completed.

    I had been planning to change out the old rubber fuel lines in my engine compartment with braided SS for some time, and also did not find a lot of info on the site for this upgrade. I did contact Frank in Houston (D240zx2) who has done this and received some good guidance from him, but ended up having to make some design mods to make this work with my late model 260Z.

    The primary reasons that I wanted to make this change was to:

    1. replace the old worn rubber lines

    2. re-configure my electric fuel pump so that it would run at any time that the car was in the "on" position

    3. add a more precise and better mounted fuel pressure regulator

    4. bring individual fuel lines to each of the triple Webers I have installed

    5. improve the overall look of the fuel distribution system in my engine compartment

    With the triple Webers on my car I have found that after prolonged periods of non use, the car was very diffcult to start. I believe that this was caused by a low / no fuel situation in the bowls of the Webers due to evaporation, and wanted to develop a solution that would allow me to pump fuel to the carbs without waiting for the mechanical pump, which seemed to take an excessive amount of time.

    So I put a plan together for the installation of a new electric pump, new pressure regulator, fuel log, as well as the SS lines themselves.

    At the start of this exercise both my son and I were complete novices when it came to AN plumbing and I found the multitude of different plumbing options to be very confusing. So I did quite a bit of research on this topic and found the following site to be very useful in terms of tutorials as well as a source for many of the products I needed to complete this exercise:

    [url']http://www.anplumbing.com/

    I also found that actually putting my plan down on paper with all of the necessary components was extremely useful as you could easily see all of the different adapters, connectors, etc that were needed for the installation. I have attached a PDF of the document that represents the final install that we completed over the weekend so hopefully this will help anyone else that wants to try this.

    There were 3 primary challenges to this project:

    1. learning the ins and outs of AN plumbing

    2. electrically connecting the new fuel pump by utilizing the existing wiring in the car

    3. going from the OEM fuel hard lines in the engine compartment to an initial AN fitting

    I already mentioned a few things about basic AN plumbing but one other key thing to note is that all of the fittings utilize a 37 degree flare as opposed to the more common 45 degrees which I believe is used on standard NPT fittings. In order to connect to the existing hardline, you will need to flare it to mate to the appropriate 37 degree connector. This requires that you have a 37 degree flaring tool. (Sorry if this is boring to those that may already know this).

    Next the fuel pump.

    So on my late 260Z, the OEM fuel pump was configured to only run when the car was in the "ON" position and the engine was running at a minimum of 600 RPM's. Unfortunately this configuration did not allow me to address one of the key issues I was trying to solve, which was the abilty to pump fuel to the carbs with the car in the ON position but not yet running. I used my FSM to unravel the rather complex factory wiring and was able to locate the power wire that was routed to the OEM pump from the relays installed above the fuse box on the passenger side of the car. I ended up tapping into this and powered it through an inertia switch which I located in the glove box, so I still maintained the safety of killing the pump in the event of an accident. Now the pump will run anytime the key is in the ON position. Challenge #2 solved.

    The third challenge was actually the hardest and my son and I spent 3-4 hours getting an AN adapter on the stock OEM line. (I decided not to replace the hard lines all the way back to the tank as my lines were in pretty good shape). Unfortunately I was not 100% sure of the size of the OEM line, but I measured approx 5/16 inch with calipers. I didn't really know if this was a true 5/16 or some close metrric equivalent. I ended up using a "tube nut" and "tube sleeve" from Earls that supported a 5/16 inch hard line and it was a perfect fit. At that point we thought we were out of the woods, only to find that the hard line where we were going to connect had a slight bend in it and the sleeve would not slide over. We ended up having to cut the hard line further back (on top of the frame rail) where we had about 3-4 inches of straight pipe and could get sufficient room to install the nut and sleeve and have room to make the required 37 degree flare. This also proved a little challenging as the space was very tight and the flaring tool barely fit, but we managed to make it work after 3 or 4 tries. We did have to remove the clamp which held the fuel line as well as the 2 OEM return / evaporation lines to get enough room to make the flare but this was relatively straight forward.

    After that was completed, it was pretty much smooth sailing. We ran adapters / lines up to the new fuel regulator which we mounted where the carbon canister had once been installed. This was a perfect spot for it and the holes were already there. My son fabricated a bracket for the fuel log which we mounted on the center mounting studs of the intake manifold. I was a little concerned about heat and vapor lock with this position, but so far no sign of that and I hevan't even installed the heat shield yet.

    A few other noteworth items:

    1. It was really hard to find a fuel regulator that supported the low pressure required by the Webers and had the AN fittings I was looking for. I finally located one on Summit Racing (P/N 220065)

    2. The inertia switch I used was sourced from Advanced Auto and is made by Intermotor (P/N S9300). It was a little pricey at $80 or so, but I felt that this was worth it for the safety it provided.

    3. I found a fuel pump that was nearly identical to the OEM one from Datsun and supported a pressure range that was consistent with the Weber requirements. It is made by Facet / Purolater (P/N FEP 60SV)

    4. I needed an inexpensive flaring tool and found one also at Summit Racing under their own brand.

    5. Finally, althouhg I am very happy with the results of this project, I will say that the AN pluming parts are very expensive. I believe that I spent somewhere in the neighborhood of $250 for all of the bit and pieces I needed as well as the SS hose itself. I would do it again, but just a warning for those who may not know.

    I've attached a few before and after pictures so you can see for yourself. I also apologize for the state of the rest of my engine compartment. I am in the early stages of doing a complete refresh and still have a lot of work ahead, but I at least have the fuel system done.

    If anyone needs any further info on this, please feel free to contact me. Hopes this helps out a few other forum members.

    Mike.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]48068[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48067[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48065[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48066[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48069[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]48070[/ATTACH]

    • 1
      entry
    • 0
      comments
    • 704
      views

    Recent Entries

    Zero rust 77. tons of new parts. Previous owner played with electric wires and she wont stay running. my mechanic says dump the fuel injection and go to carbs and all will be fine. Im done messin with it. Only has 40k miles and a clear title. 260-668-6529. $3000

  4. Okay' date=' I have been toying with this idea in another thread for a while now and I have some ideas floating around. Since I am not aware of any regional forums I am putting this here.

    I am trying to organize a classic car getaway in the hill and wine country of Texas. Think Fredericksburg.

    A few things to note about this.

    This IS a family friendly event. Spouses are welcome and encouraged.

    This IS an event where classic car lovers get together to to share stories, and just hang out.

    This IS NOT a competitive timed event. NO stage or sector times.

    This IS NOT an event where every second of every day is mapped out for you.

    My outline is this so far. This will take place in November/December time frame THIS YEAR.

    I am thinking of picking a 'staging location' that has the following characteristics:

    Bed and Breakfast, or moderately priced hotel (think between 100-200/night)

    Large well lit parking lot to keep classic cars safe and to park trailers for those coming a long way.

    Great scenic drives with interesting destinations within 30 min to an hour away.

    Good food and entertainment close by to gather and talk about that days escapades.

    Decent shopping near by for those who want to pick up an item or two

    Away from a congested part of a large city where directions and parking can really be bad and/or confusing.

    Close to a reputable garage or mechanic where repairs can be made

    Close to a reputable parts house. (NAPA, Car Quest, Autozone, etc)

    I have been thinking the hill country somewhere outside of Austin at first, but now I am leaning toward the Frederiskburg, TX. It checks more of the boxes.

    My plan is to make this a 3 day, 2 night affair.

    One cruise route will be organized per day, and it will be voluntary of course.

    The rest of the time people can go as they please and see sights as they wish. Folks can pair up with their friends or not.

    Think Casual. I am hoping to get enough attendance that a makeshift carshow can happen one evening. Probably the second night.

    Possible locations are places like:

    [url']http://www.hangarhotel.com/index.html

    This looks like a fun place which is car AND car show friendly. It has nice accommodations and seems very friendly and interesting. I love old airplanes so this is good for me. :)

    I will begin a tentative list of attendees here.

    Zedyone_kenob

    Frank C.i

    Please PM me if you are interested in this.

    • 1
      entry
    • 1
      comment
    • 904
      views

    Recent Entries

    jimndee1967
    Latest Entry

    heater not working removed all the hoses and replaced them unfortunally i missedplaced my diagram and can not put the hoses back in. can anyone help me

  5. Blog quinnys

    • 1
      entry
    • 1
      comment
    • 878
      views

    Recent Entries

    The wipers on my 71 240z do not work, neirher does the washer. I got a new motor but it will not work either.

    Checked the fuse in the fuse box under the center console and the fuse is good. Are there fuses anywhere else?

    How can I check the switch on the steering column.

    • 1
      entry
    • 1
      comment
    • 842
      views

    Recent Entries

    I have a 1978 280z to part out. Lots of good parts still. You can e-mail me or call (831)703-4351. My name is Spencer. I will post some pictures later today.

    • 1
      entry
    • 1
      comment
    • 779
      views

    Recent Entries

    Billmadson
    Latest Entry

    I'm the new guy around here. My son and I recently purchased a 73 240. all orig. except for 1 door or latch. Tires maybe the exhaust.

    We need help with the carbs. Supposedly were rebuilt, but it's not running right. needs brakes, There is a brake in the line somewhere.

    The paint is really good. And the interior is as well. Carpets are dry rotted. No rust anywhere. Car is sort of a barn find. Old timer had it. He bought it about 10 or 15 years ago. painted it and has basically been sitting there. 43,000 original miles.

    Beautiful car and I think more than worthy of being showcase material.

    Any help or direction for parts and supplies would be great, And also what is acceptable to change out and whats not.

    Thank You, Bill

    • 1
      entry
    • 2
      comments
    • 875
      views

    Recent Entries

    My 1971 240Z had a Jacobs Energy Pak in it when I bought it. A couple of days ago, it died and wouldn't start. Apparently the switch for "Computer" or "Conv Ign" has lived it's full life; there are 3 large cracks in the top of the switch and it kind of crunches when switching from one position to the other.

    Anyway, I decided to remove the Jacobs and install a Petronix or something.

    While doing this. I discovered that my L24 does not have the stock distributor. It has a D6K82-01, which I believe is from a later model (1983?) 280ZX. The module LOOKS like an E12-92 in that it has 4 terminals, 2 on top and 2 on the side. I cannot locate anything saying it is an E12-92, just IGM-08 and nothing identifying it as a Nissan or Datsun part.

    Questions:

    Can someone tell me what year/years and models used the D6K82-01 distributor?

    Any idea what module I have?

    What was the Jacobs Energy Pak good for?

    The car starts and runs fine afer wiring the distributor and bypassing the ballast resistor (Well, at least after I reconnected the coil to distributor wire when it wouldn't start!). I have had it up to about 75mph with no problems, and acceleration seems fine with no hint of pre ignition and good acceleration; I thought this would be a problem if I have an E12-92 or aftermarket equivalent module

  6. Blog peterb

    • 1
      entry
    • 1
      comment
    • 860
      views

    Recent Entries

    owned it over 30 years been in side last 28 whats it worth good shape
    • 1
      entry
    • 0
      comments
    • 877
      views

    Recent Entries

    I am the original owner of my 71 240Z. bought new in l971

    and I have 2 manuals (Factory Service Engine (FSM) and Haynes. No dealer within 100 miles has a mechanic who knows anything about my car. I am grateful to find a source of fellow owners who may be able to help me.

    Ever since I rebuilt the engine' date=' the car runs well over 20mph

    but the engine does not start the way it should; is not smooth taking off in 1st gear; and is a little hesitant going into 2nd gear.

    PROBLEMS: Before, choke would pull

    all the way back; now it only goes about 3/4. Seems can't

    adjust cable to allow choke to be pulled all the way back.

    Before at 50 degrees temp, I only needed to pull choke about half-way to start. Now I have to pull as far out as possible. Then RPM jumps to 1000-1500 and I have to quickly push choke lever back down some. If pushed too far

    down and after a couple of attempts, it will continue running

    at 1,000 rpm. If push lever all the way down, it may stall again. When idle seems stable, I have to carefully ease out

    in lst gear. It's alittle rough and will stumble if not careful.

    If after pushing lever all the way down, I pull it out slightly

    it seems to run more smoothly in 1st gear. Increasing idle

    to 850 helps some, but not like pulling lever out slightly.

    QUESTIONS: 1. When choke lever is pulled out slightly,

    (even though change in dimensions "H" is imperceptible) is

    more air flowing into the car? 2. Also in regard to fuel, does

    pulling lever back (even though change in dimension A is

    imperceptible) allow more fuel to enter? 3. Do you think that

    increasing or decreasing the interlock valve opening would help? 4. Do you think increasing or decreasing the depth of

    the nozzle when choke is all the way forward would help?

    5. Coil has some oil in primary terminal--could that be the

    problem? Is there a definitive test (on or off car) that would

    determine if coil is bad? (Other than OHM resistance test.)?

    6. If there is water in the tank. could that be part of the problem? 7. I set carb needle flush with "groove" at base

    of piston. Is that correct?

    Background: I replaced carb nozzle and needle; clutch

    assembly and slave cyclinder; rotor and cap; fuel filter.

    Adjusted and reset timing, valve clearances, float (did not

    have replacement float filters.) Checked plug wires, points,

    condensor and fuel pump. Compression in all cyclinders about

    160; plugs grey-brown; aiar intake balanced with flow meter.

    On carb,set space between bridge and nozzle at about 2mm;

    interlock valve opening at about .060mm (FSM dimensions,A & H pp.EF 24, 25) With choke lever pulled out completely,

    nozzle depth is about 9mm. If apply pressure to top of nozzle, it will depress aabout another 3mm. Mileage before

    rebuild about 80,000; driven 1500 since. Car sits outside in

    winter for about 5 months.

    THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ ALL OF THIS! I

    have been struggling with this situation for 2 summers and

    any advice will be greatly appreciated! All the best- Francesco[/quote']

  7. Blog John78Z

    • 1
      entry
    • 2
      comments
    • 828
      views

    Recent Entries

    I'm trying to find Z clubs in San Jose or the San Francisco Bay area. I see on some websites that there is supposedly two clubs of interest, a Northern California club using the web address www.zonc.org and a San Jose club using the web address clubz.org, but neither of these web addresses are currently being used by Z clubs. Does anyone know of current contact info for San Jose or San Francisco area Z clubs?

  8. 280ZX # 009 evaluated by experts for insurance purpose at 13,000.00 cdn...

    Please contact the ONLY owner of this car since new...

    LouisDel@videotron.ca

    Thank YOU !!!!!!!!

  9. ConchZ
    Latest Entry

    Been a long time between posts, due somewhat to relocating to Kansas City, MO for a job transfer. Miss Key West, but KC is nice, and most of my family are here. I can also afford suitable housing, with lots of garage space, making it easier to work on the car and store parts. I just noticed it has been two years since I got the paint done. I had a few initial problems with the paint, but once those were fixed, it has held up great for two years now. I just removed the gas tank to solve a leaking vent hose, and was very pleased with how rust free the underside of the hatch and insides of the quarters and rear panels looked. I don't think the car will ever be finished, though. Seems there's always something needing fixed, or at least improved upon. I guess that's why I bought it, something to do for a hobby. Interestingly, the car came from Wichita, so its much closer to its original home. Maybe I should look up the guy I bought it from. I never met him, as I bought it from Ebay. My friend checked out the car for me and handled the transaction.

    Time for new tires, as they are about 7 years old and hard as rocks. Good tread left on them, just old. Time to make a final push to solving the mysterious rear end clunk, too. Replaced bushings, mount and u-joints already. Wish they would have come up with a better design. Speaking of design, what the heck were they thinking on that fuel tank? I think there were 7 fuel and vent hoses on it, none of them the same size.

    • 1
      entry
    • 1
      comment
    • 719
      views

    Recent Entries

    BSCM@310
    Latest Entry

    I sold my 72 240 Z for close to asking price - good solid restored driver:

    http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/5491/title/1972-240z-restored/cat/1

    Could not figure out how to edit the ad so trying to post "sold" notice this way. I'll be looking to fill the space in my shop- can't live without a Z

  10. im looking to convert my L28 into a 3.1 stroker, have herd that one of the first steps is getting a LD28 crank. Just wondering if anyone could help me to find out what other parts need or what i have to.

    • 1
      entry
    • 2
      comments
    • 765
      views

    Recent Entries

    House3571
    Latest Entry

    Hello, I have a 71 240z. Problem was car quit on me 2 years ago. Been tinkering with it since. Replaced all fuel lines, fuel pump, plugs, wires, coil, resistor, all wiring, cleaned carbs. Finally got it running. It purred for about 1/2 hour. Shut it off then next morning did a oil change, radiator flush. Now my problem, after changed fluids i tried to start and imediatly started knocking hard on the passenger side, right around the bottom of the cylinder head area. With the knocking it wont turn over hard enough to start, sounds like a hammer on the side of the block. I am a rookie when it comes to engines. cant figure it out from here. any thought as to what it might be will be helpful .Thanks

    • 1
      entry
    • 2
      comments
    • 761
      views

    Recent Entries

    Hey guys, take a look at the wildwood brake upgrade. can someone advise if the wheels will clear the calipers. I think I mentioned it earlier but no one said anything about it. Please let me know if I will be needing spacers or does the wheels goes right on.
  11. Blog KAP

    • 1
      entry
    • 1
      comment
    • 859
      views

    Recent Entries

    Hi,

    I've had my '82 280zx since new and now need a couple of cruise control selenoid vacuum switches.

    Does anyone know where I can purchase these items???



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.