I have a 70 240z and the brakes have always been soft from when I originally restored the car. I finally decided to upgrade and fix the issue. I just put on the new Toyota front calipers but I still have the drums on the rear. I have pulled a gallon of brake fluid through the lines but I still get air bubbles out of the rear wheel cyclinders and the pedal remains as soft as ever. Here is what I have replaced
1.) New 1" MC from Datsun Parts - figured the 30% extra fluid would fix it. Nope
2.) New vacuum booster from O'riely's - checked the old vacuum boost for reaction disk- fixed that - it didn't help and so I bought a new one - no help
3.) Took off and cleaned the proportioning valve
4.) Hooked up my air compressor to the brake lines trying for force fluid out (somewhere - anywhere) and find what I assume is an air leak - no help
5.) Found a leaking rear wheel cyclinder, fixed that, no leak now but still get air out of the rear
6.) I have bleed the MC multiple times, gravity feed, vacuum pulled, and even done the old two man method and I can't get these things to firm up?
I put in an access door for the large fuel vapor hose that connects on top of the back of the gas tank making it easier to change out the hose. After dropping the tank to change that leaking hose I realized I wanted easier access to that hose though I recognize it might be a while before it needs replacing again. I figure anything that makes upkeep easier prolongs the life of the car.
I put an aluminum rod approx 1/4" DIA about 10 inches long into the part of the hose that connects to the gas tank that was to be bent into a "U" shape to keep the hose from kinking and closing off. I verified this after bending by blowing through the hose. The hose I used was not OEM. It is no doubt stouter than needed as it is rated for 350 PSI, marine use and is ethanol resistant. It fit fine on the tank though on the other end I had to slit one side with a hacksaw to get it to fit over the nylon hose connector at the fill tube. I clamped it on with a radiator clamp and sealed the slit with Seal All. The hose was stiff to install but should last a long time.
Final result, painted access door (other pictures taken before paint):
View thru door (new hose):......................................................Door closed:
Bottom view no tank:...............Access door seal:
Access door hole location:........Original hose seen here:
Fuel vapor hose I used (very stiff hose) (pictures of numbers seen on hose):
Weatherhead 5/8" H10110 Made in USA 1008, MSHA 1C - 46/6:
End view with ruler showing diameter:
New hydraulic hose is a tad too big to allow grommet to fit in hole in car so I just pulled rubber grommet down the hose slightly and didn't use it. Hose is very strong (rated 350PSI), IMO doesn't need grommet:
Seal All applied next to filler hose:
I've done this swap in my Nissan Cedric 1978 year model.
The 4 speed flexplate,
An overdrive rocker switch to lock out O/D
A modified crossmember.
A modified tailshaft (shorter and different spline than the original)
Some slight transmission tunnel adjustments (read, make larger at some points where the trans touches the tunnel)
These are things that i had to consider and do to make things work, you may have some of these issues with your S30 cars...dunno, never owned one myself.
A worthy modification IMO. Good luck mate, Cheers.
PS My 4 speed auto was from an R30 Skyline with an L24...it was a hydraulic box. Some later ones are electronic. That may need more work to set up the electrics but I don't know about this, as I said, mines hydraulic.
a couple of weeks ago I visited my local pick a part, and found a 240Z with a Holey electric fuel pump, unfortunately I opted not to get it cause the pump was rusted shot and the guy at the counter was asking for too much $ I thought. It had the stock electrical conectors and a red body.........not too sure that the one on my 260 is working and was wondering if anyone here would know what the specs are on this type of fuel pump.........looked at the Holey website and it does not list cars for the application, only the psi!!!! :tapemouth
Hi Ive been looking for a cheap 60mm throttle body to put on my 280zx but haven't had such good luck, But then I heard a 240sx throttle body would work but needs minor modifications and possibly a spacer does any one have tips or steps on how to make the TB work perfectly?
Trying to figure the value and best way to sell. Any ideas would be appreciated. It has not been driven in some time and needs work. Original parts for the most part including original engine. Some rust on floor boards due to some exterior storage.
So I'm planning to buy a 73 240z, the problem is that the fuel isnt going to the carb making it unable to drive. Can anyone tell me what would I get myself into and what would I need to do to fix the probelm. THANKS Z fans!
Many thanks to Jeff G 78 and postings by others for help with this. I noticed the instructions on the standard tank seal can called for thoroughly stirring the tank seal which I thought I had done but when I poured the seal in the tank there were a few lumps. If you look closely at the flat surface on the right (tank baffle) in the completed picture below you can see a couple of small lumps likely from lack of stirring. I used a pint and a half which is a half pint more than what POR says you need so it should be fine.
I spilled some tank sealer on the outside of the tank and thereby discovered how durable the POR standard tank sealer is when I started wire wheeling the exterior of the tank in preparation for painting.
Original dirty tank:
After acid cleaning with hydrochloric acid (per the bottle, this is a substitute for muriatic acid commonly used for this):
After marine clean and metal ready:
Completed (pink color from camera light):
More details of my experience:
Gas tank seal process.txt
The bottom tube of my 6/70 240Z Macpherson strut has a horizontal plate inside about 3/4â€ from the bottom opening. Recently purchased new ball joints with larger diameter stud and used later-model steering knuckles fit together well. My problem is that the new stud is about 1/4â€ longer than the original stud and won't fit inside the strut, interfering with the strut plate. I havenâ€™t cut down the stud of the new ball joint yet because I feared it would be of hardened steel (difficult to cut) and the hole for the cotter pin/castellated nut would fall right in the middle of the cut. Alternatively, I wasnâ€™t sure if drilling a whole through the strut plate would affect the structural integrity of the strut. Has anyone seen this problem and have a fix thatâ€™s worked? Thanks, Scott
Redoing my brake system for the first time. Got a rebuilt Master cylinder from Black Dragon & found that it:
1) had a two hole flange mount vs the original which had 4 holes
2) the collar which fits in the booster hole is ~1" deep vs 1/2" for the original, thus
3) Master Cyl will not bolt flush to the booster.
4) Dragon says that they have not had any customer issues with fit but are happy to take it back
Has anyone else observed this and do I have any options besides rebuilding or mounting the new MC w/o any spacer?
And what about the 4 vs 2 hole mounting flange?
Have had this Z since new.
I bought the car recently and replaced the coil, plugs, wires, battery terminals. The car is getting spark and fuel. If i hold the key on the start position(where the starter is turning the motor) it will rev up and seem to run. But whenever i release the key and let it go to the run position, the car shuts off. I have no idea what it can be, mabye the ignition or something electrical. Anyones advice will be greatley appreciated.