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EuroDat

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EuroDat last won the day on October 21 2016

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About EuroDat

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    Kaatsheuvel

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My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    280z
  • About My Cars
    Mini Cooper S - Park Lane with John Cooper Works performance pack.<br />
    Mercedes A180 - Ambition sport edition.
  1. main shaft nub FS5W71B 280 ZX

    That "Don't use" is about the soft metal bush in the end of the rear extension. It supports the propeller shaft yoke. The SKU 303066 fit, but some people report it spinning in the housing because its too tight on the yoke. Its a imperial size, not metric. Its going back 5 years when I wrote that, but it was something about it spinning and wearing the transmission housing beyond use. Here is a link to the correct one: Nissan-62. http://www.americanpowertrainwarehouse.com/fs5w71-transmission-extension-housing-bushing-fits-datsun-nissan-77-4-cyl-cars-trucks-nis-62/
  2. main shaft nub FS5W71B 280 ZX

    Dave, I changed all three on mine. My transmission had that same wiggle you are describing. The old ones had a little more. They will always have a little play in them because the transmission uses C3 bearing clearances. C3 is a clearances spec, not a tolerance spec. What you should pay more attention to the surface of the shaft and the inner surface of the gears.They should smooth and a little bit be shinny. If they are a very dull grey colour or spotty dull grey, that is a sign of wear. It could cause huming and whinning when you use those gears. Here is my list of parts I used when I rebuilt my transmission in 2012. Some of the parts are no longer available through nissan, but you might be able to find aftermarket stuff out there. Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf
  3. main shaft nub FS5W71B 280 ZX

    I agree with Zed. Try to find all the problems before investing to much. It might not be worth fixing. If its ok. The woodruff keys should be ok, if they are not damaged. I would replace the roll pins and the springs behind the detent balls on the selectors. If the needle bearing quality is unknown I would replace it too. I have an excel list with the sizes and part numbers of the bearings, seals/o-rings and synchros. I have nether seen a kit with all the seals, so you will need to buy some extra items for a thorough rebuild.
  4. main shaft nub FS5W71B 280 ZX

    Its good you could confirm which direction before you try to remove it. The left hand thread nut was used in the 280ZX Coupe NA with the close ratio 71B transmission. A lot of people fall into the trap of thinking the 2+2 has the same transmission, but it doesn't. The 2+2 has the wide ratio like the 280Z and right hand thread nut. Take your time and ask questions when in doubt. Goodluck with your rebuild.
  5. main shaft nub FS5W71B 280 ZX

    If its a close ratio transmission, it will have the same left hand threaded nut (E9803) as the 71C transmission in the 300ZX etc. The wide ratio 5 speeds had the right hand thread
  6. irma

    Good luck Jeff and other members in the area. Hope it passes over without too much damage. Irma really made a mess of Saint Martin (dutch colony). One of our friends daughter works on the island, and he lost contact for two days. He was a nervous wreck until she finally got a message through that she was alright.
  7. Another Parts Car

    I have stopped comparing prices with here. Geography, supply versus demand, 280Z less in demand than 240Z etc. In nl this 260Z asking €5900 http://www.hofman.nl/auto/14275/datsun-260z/ And a 280Z for €12900 http://www.hofman.nl/auto/14138/datsun-280z/
  8. Another Parts Car

    Good find. The injectors, afm and tranny are worth more than the 600. If its original, it will have the N42 head as well. Before july has the early gas tank, which are getting harder to find. Just ask wheee about his search for a good one.
  9. Stock 280z in Oklahoma

    Looks like one of the first 280Z. I'm not 100% sure, but the afm looks very much like the Bosch unit Datsun used in the first months of production. Bosch p/n: 0 280 202 001 (A31 000 050) Must be pre May 75. In May they changed to the Jecs units.
  10. You will be very lucky to find a NOS vacuum modulator. Your best bet would be to search for a vacuum modulator for a Holden Commodore VL in Australia. It used a Nissan 3.0L inline six for a couple of years back in the eighties. It came with a 5 speed or a 4N71B auto. Here is an example ad: http://trade-alley.com.au/modulators-vacuum/commodore-vl-4n71b-4-speed-automatic-transmission-vacuum-modulator-non-turbo.html It should work on the 3N71B.
  11. 280zx 5 speed going into 75 280z

    If you want a rebuild kit, look for the 300ZX, 200SX, Maxima kits. Plenty out there. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Nissan-200SX-300ZX-Hardbody-FS5W71C-F4W71E-Transmission-Rebuild-Kit-5spd/171273648905?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41376%26meid%3D20436572be504cd5896109aaba761520%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D221371830904&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1 The only thing that won't fit is the front cluster shaft bearing. You need a 63/22 C3 (ID22 OD56 x 16mm) which will cost about $15 - 25 depending on where you go and brand. The one in the kit is the larger FS5W71C bearing (ID22 OD62 x 16mm). The synchros will fit the 280Z close ratio.
  12. Carb Repair Kit

    Hi Daniel, Welcome to the club. I don't know any place in Switzerland, buf in the Netherlads youcan try these guys. http://www.bccp.eu/index.html Here is the kits for the 70-71 240z. Didn't see the 72,butyou couldmail them. They have more than they advertise. http://www.bccp.eu/contents/nl/p3237.html
  13. 280zx 5 speed going into 75 280z

    Siteunseen makes a good point. If you can't find someone to press the bearing onto the collar, you can do it yourself. Just don't put the bearing on the work bench and tap the collar into place with a hammer. The bearing is too soft and you can damage the contact surfaces. You can use a couple of metal plates or hard wood (4"×2") with a hole drilled through them for a 1/2" bolt. You will need a bolt or threaded bar long enough to go through both pieces of wood the bearing and the collar and some washers and nuts. When you screw it all together, the bolt will squeeze the bearing onto the collar. To make it go a lot easier, put the collar in the freezer over night. If you are using wood, you will need to freeze the collar. You can also warm the bearing a little in the oven (50 deg C). I like to clamp the bolt head or about an inch of the threaded bar in a bench vice. Then the washer, block of hard wood, bearing with light oil on the collar surface, throwout collar, hard wood, washer and nut. Screw it down until the bearing bottoms out on the collar.
  14. 280zx 5 speed going into 75 280z

    Sounds like you are making good progress. The rear seal is expensive via Nissan. Not sure why, compared to the front crank shaft seal which is about $8. The rear will cost $30 at your local Nissan dealer. Part nr: 12279-2B500. The size of the rear seal is 80/100x10mm if you want to try aftermarket. Should be about $5 to $10. While you are at it, I would replace the transmission rear oil seal and the selector bushes (pin bushes and ball bush). The seal and bushes will set you back about $22 in total via Nissan. Change the oil. Most recommend Redline MT-90 gear oil. Suitable for brass synchros. Selector bushes and rear transmission oil seal. https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-bushing-lever-32861n4200 https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-bushing-32855h1010 https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-extension-housing-seal-32136u010a Note: The 32136-U010a replaces the original oil seal 32136-U0100 Word of wisdom when selecting your clutch. Make sure you compare the height with the new with the old. So many people get into trouble with the throwout bearing collar height. If you do this quick procedure with the old clutch and pressure plate, you will know what to expect with the new old. Sort of a practice run. If you already removed the pressure plate then keep going and remove the flywheel. Once you have it out, lay the flywheel on a table or bench and assemble the clutch disc and pressure plate. The disc doesn't need to be lined up perfectly, its just to measure the height of the throwout bearing collar. Position the throwout bearing and collar on the pressure plate and messure the height from the clutch fork contact points to the flywheel surface. It should come to 92mm. The worn clutch disc will make it a little more, but 92 is approximatly where it should be. Do this same procedure with the new clutch. 30 minutes checking this could save you hours of frustrating re-work. There are four different throwout bearing collars and a lot of people get them mixed up with the pressure plate. Nearly always requires removing the tranny and fit the correct collar to solve it.
  15. FI enrichment effects on idle and vacuum.

    I first tried cranking, but it would take a long time to get any usable results, and even with the plugs out it would be hard on the starter/battery. In the end I made a harness with some old connectors. 3 sets of two injectors in series so they would not be running at full battery voltage. Then two aligator clip on the battery. I still have the harness somewhere. Il take some photos of it and post them for reference. Used a screwdriver through the aircleaner to activate the AFM flap and turned the ignition on to run the pump.
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