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Showing results for tags 'smoke'.
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I'm a new owner of a '71 240Z; I've posted on here a couple of times. While the car was in the process of restoration by the previous owner there were periods of long sitting and I am getting everything up to snuff. To help others help me here's what I've done so far: - Rebuilt transmission with new gaskets, bearings, synchronizer rings, and oil seals. Temporarily refilled with synthetic 75W-90 GL-5 (ouch; I know now), now has Red Line MT90. - Replaced clutch friction disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder - Replaced distributor cap, rotor, O-ring, breaker points, condenser, and ignition coil with OEM-spec Beck Arnley parts - Replaced plugs and wires with NGK BPR6ES and NGK wires, gapped per FSM specs - Dropped fuel tank and had it boiled at a local radiator shop; replaced fuel filter and am currently running a can of cleaner additive through with premium-grade fuel - Disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt carburetors with the aid of the ZTherapy rebuild kit and video - Checked dwell, measured at 37 degrees, timed at 5 degrees (second notch from bottom on crank pulley when viewed from passenger side) with electronic multi-function light I'm now driving the car daily to and from work, ~40 miles round-trip. I do my best to keep the engine in the 3000 to 3500 RPM range while driving. The car starts well with the now-functional choke, but the choke/fuel nozzle assembly sticks and I'm planning to re-adjust and calibrate this weekend. I know that I've got an exhaust leak under the hood where the twin pipes meet the manifold; it's missing the flange gasket which I've ordered and will also be installing. The rear hatch also doesn't seal quite right and the original bad gas made quite the odor in the car, so I usually drive with my window down. Although the blower motor/switch don't work the control levers are functional and I can get forced air venting through the ducts into the cabin. This week as I've been driving I've noticed faint white smoke rising from the hood vents (the car has a 280 hood on it.) This morning while making a left turn I also noticed the smoke entering the cabin through the blower vents. I have not noticed smoke from the tail pipe while driving, neither while under load or idling at lights. When I got to work I popped the hood and took a look. I know that I have coolant seepage around the thermostat housing; I'm replacing the thermostat, both its gaskets, and both radiator hoses. I also saw that the frame was wet where the radiator filler neck hose rests near the front driver's side of the engine bay. Finally, there was faint smoke/steam coming from the valve cover breather and where its hose connects to the air cleaner box. Removing the hose cause condensation and puddling of what appears to be oil. I do get some hesitation/lag when starting from standing in first gear. Once it gets past that point the car will accelerate fine up to highway speeds through the other gears. Deceleration, whether in neutral or gear, often includes one or several backfires or pops, I believe from the tail pipe. If you've made it through all of that you now know what I do. I've been doing a lot of reading and searching through the forums, but I still have a few questions: - First and foremost, what should I be looking at for the above circumstances? - What is the "best/proper" way of setting float adjustment? I do believe that I am running too rich. The video shows the float horizontal at .55 in. while I've read on here about holding the lid vertical and tilting while blowing in the fuel inlet to measure. I sent Bruce an e-mail; maybe they've been busy but I haven't heard back. - What are common locations for vacuum leaks? The car has a later N33 intake manifold on it with the corresponding emissions-control balance tube. However, no air pump is installed and there aren't any devices installed on the balance tube. Perhaps related, the vacuum tap on the front carburetor is not there. The hole is not plugged, but the residual broken tap appears to be in place in the carb. Instead, a line runs from the manifold vacuum tap to a three-way join, then a line runs to the distributor advance. Does it make a difference which location vacuum is tapped from? Are there any good images showing definitively what needs to be plugged on the balance tube? - The engine no longer has the coolant line running around the back (firewall end) from the manifold on the driver side to the three-way joint on the passenger side. Instead, the line runs through the manifold and is then capped, with a corresponding cap at the 3-way joint. I am planning to remove the residual line and plug at the thermostat housing instead to eliminate the dead zone; are there any problems with not running coolant through the manifold? The carburetor spacers don't have cut-outs for water flow. As always, all help is much appreciated. -
I just rebuilt the top end of my 260 engine. Head redone, headers etc. It is now making blue smoke. If I let it run in my garage the smoke actually burns your eyes. It seems to be gas rich? In any case I am getting some feeddback that maybe my rings are gone. I am going to look at doing a compression test. But two questions: Does this sound like rings. If I have to replave the rings can it be done through the bottom end with the engine in the car. Can I pull the oil pan and go in that way. I hope so my wife just got the garage back from doing the top end. Hate to see the look on her face if she sees an engine on a stand where her parking space in the garage used to be Glenn -
Hello I just rebuilt my top end and have a good amount of blue smoke. It did not smoke prior to the top end rebuild. I installed a high capicity oil pump when I rebuilt adds about 15 to 20% more oil. Could this be the cause of the blue smoke. Am I flooding the engine with too much oil. The engine is stock. Thanks Glenn