ddezso

I did the steering coupler bushing on my 70 Z easily by just undoing the 4 bolts. I also took off the airbox for access.

I have found that plenty of Black Dragon parts, especially weatherstripping, dont fit too well. MY Z mechanic dreads it when I bring him those parts...Other parts from there have worked perfectly.....

Arne - sounds like a fun road trip. I just got back from one today and am off to Tucson tomorrow with my Dad (aka mechanic) to see the Pima Air Museum. If anyone knows which connects where and even has a picture from a manual I'd be grateful. Thanks!

So if I wanted to make it operable again where would I re-route the hoses (or does it matter/do I want to)? thanks..

I was poking around below the ignition coil today and saw the pictured hose/valve/regulator and cant figure out what the heck it is. It connects to metal tubing that runs up from under the car but seems to terminate in a loop. I cant help but want to take it apart and clean it up but before I do so I should know what it is.... Anyone know?

The USPS provides their boxes for free. Of course, they assume you will use them to ship things with the USPS which he does...

I also have stopped buying from that seller. I never had an issue with the small parts I received but the freight charge would be $8.00 - $10.00 for an item with postage on it for $2.35. I'm personally a big fan of the-z-connection who has excellent items and will enclose cash to make up the difference between actual shipping and billed shipping if I am overcharged. I have him marked as a favorite seller..

You mention removing struts without disconnecting the transverse link. Is there a way for me to replace struts and springs without making this disconnection?

I am working on replacing struts and springs on my rear suspension and am having an issue getting started. The fronts were nasty but not that bad. However the rears have what appears to be an anomolie. The transverse link bolt is supposed to have a lock bolt. Sounds easy enough, right. What we found was a nut. Upon removal of said nut the threads were left with no way to remove the headless bolt to release the transverse link bolt. If no solution is found we'll just button it up and let the pros have at it. So, the question is: what's the best way to get that transverse link bolt Oughta' there. What Gives????

These look beautiful. Check my PM and count me in for a pigtail cover..

Paid $4,250 for it + $1,000 to ship it to me in Scottsdale plus have put another $3k or so into it...... A fine deal for the enjoyment and way better than the price you'd pay for the same vintage American muscle car...

No doubt. Gary is the man in Phoenix. Super nice guy too.

I'd buy one.

Here are the pics of my Z car post crash. If blood makes you squeamish dont look at the interior shot.. I just found these and thought you might find this sad and interesting..

Did the engine come out and was the engine compartment painted for that price? Looks awesome BTW!

I was 16 years old. It took me 3 months to total my 1972 240Z and wind up in the hospital for a month. I just got another Z a year ago at age 34....

Arne - In my opinion downtown Phoenix is a pretty boring place with very little to offer culturally. It's an odd downtown because it is basically totally devoid of people compared to most downtowns. It is definately a place to have a car to get around. That being said here are a few restaurant ideas at least: Alice Cooperstown - somewhat interesting and halfway decent grub right by the ballpark My Florist Cafe - decent fairly cheap eats with half price wine bottles every night and an absolutely brilliant pianist that I know plays Friday and Saturday nights Pizeria Bianco - usually a real long wait but voted some of the best pizza in the US Since you are here in March, Spring Training is in full swing but you will need wheels to get to a game. The Mariners are in Peoria which will be 30-40 minutes away but can be a fun time and there are other stadiums closer. There is very little to do downtown that I can suggest unless you want to go to a Suns game or something. If you are here over a Saturday there is a real nice car show in Scottsdale that I go to with the Z most weeks. . . If you decide to get wheels and head out there PM me and we can meet up..

George - I have the replacement plates from Banzai but admire your creative abilities to roll your own. Can you help me understand how you metal stamped them? Where did you take them or did you have the stamp gear yourself?

Now all I need is a pic of the engine compartment plate so I can make sure my stamping/engraving looks accurate..... anyone.....?

Are the rivets available at any hardware store? Also - does anyone have photos of their ID plates you are willing to share so I can use them as examples for engravers to copy (with my numbers of course)?

I bought my car sight unseen and it turned out somewhere along the lines prior owners had removed the door jamb VIN plate as well as the engine compartment ID plate. You can read all about it here if you are really bored.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19336 I have purchased replacements from Banzai Motorworks and need some advice on how to attach them to the car. I think it is done with smal metal rivets. Where would you get these rivets and how do you attach them? Don't worry - I am not trying to pull a fast one and modify VIN numbers. The firewall VIN is clearly stamped and since that was the only VIN I have a state issued VIN on the title and in the door jamb. I just want to replace the plates so it looks better. Thanks!

Does anyone know if someone out there is making reproductions of Z Car glove box manuals and factory service manuals? Or even better a good place to find originals at fair prices? I'd sure like to get those for my 70 Z but am having a heck of a time on EBay.... Any good sources out there?

Per Carl Beck the stock height from ground to bottom of rocker panel (not counting pinch welds) is 7 3/4" to 8". I just measured mine at 7" to 7 1/4" depending on where you measure (rear is 1/4" higher) so it looks like my old springs are saggy and need replacement. Does anyone have a perspective on the quality and height of Tokico springs off EBay vs the Courtesy Nissan repro US spec springs? I am using the KYB GR-2 shocks (part # 361002 front , 361001 Rear).

What is the factory spec height from the ground and what is the point of measurement so I can see if I am sagging today?