Sailor Bob

Beautiful ride - congrats. SB

Hey O Give us some more!! SB

Finally got around to fiddlin with the motor - took off the rubber casing/mount and had a go at resealing the pump didn't work out as I was hoping. I got on the phone and called NAPA - they carried a universal motor ($19 CDN about $16US), a little bigger, black in color, only thing is that it has to be mounted. I have it hooked up, wrapped in an old steering bushing and tucked under the EFI wire harness for now. I couldn't bring myself to drill holes to mount it. It works excellent. I was thinking of drilling a couple of holes in the heat sheild. Any ideas? SB By the way used a bottle of injector cleaner with the last fill up - I think it made a difference.

I think it looks great - It would work nice on the later models as well. The stitching looks good to me.

Beautiful job! Oh and by the way I took Gary's advise - I washed it down with baking soda (neutralize acid) gave it a thorough water wash, removed all loose rust and two coats of POR. It's still a little on the ugly side, but it's got a "J" bolt through it holding a battery in place for the past 3000 miles and from recent inspection is holding good. The underlying fender although not pretty, turned out to be solid. I'm thinking that a guy could make an impression and mold solid covers to fit these trays rather than removing them - for those with enough steel left to hold a battery. I would buy one. Later Rick SB

Thanks for the info. SB

Thanks Will/Sal for the excellent tips. I will post results in a few of days - going to a convention Sal - Do you cut horizontal?

Is that a straight exchange? - it would certainly be easier/cheaper to get. SB

Must be a leaky sort of day. I was thinking of spraying it with a sealant. It doesn't look as if it's something that you can open and repair. I took it off the resevior for closer look - you really can't see much with out destroying the rubber jacket and it's a pain to re-install. I guess am just going to have to spend mo money. Can't complain too much the fun to cash ratio is still well in my favour. Thanks for the responce:) SB

Just came in from the shed - replaced all the clear lines for the windsheld washer fluid, had a busted T and the lines had shrunk (causing the busted T) become stiff as a poker. Installed extra four inches with a loop to mitigate the shrinkage. Got it all working nice and went tucking in the wires I noticed that the resevoir was leaking - closer look - seems to be the motor/impeller. Any one seen this befor? Is there a fix? Please advise befor I order more gear. Thanks SB

Just did the compression test: 150 on all cylinders give or take a lb or two. I have no loss of coolant since purchased.

I don't know if the 77 model is the same, but I did them with engine in and it was a little tricky. I did have the struts removed and took out the steering rack as well. I assume you would have to as there is very little clearance. The bushings were a tight/perfect fit, but no compression. I remember reading a thread at the time - someone had to cut the bushing to get it to fit. You could do a search of steering bushings. Good luck SB

Need alot more pictures to judge.

Hi RZ / BD I've lost about 2 - 3 litres over the summer, approximately 3000 miles. I do combination driving - I'm 10 miles from the city and I travel there at least once a day (if there's no rain) in the Z. The car had a significant layup - records show an oil change in 95 then no records to 2005, I was led to believe that was garage time. The milage provided by the vendor was 70k and judging by condition I have no reason to doubt this. Compression test - not yet, but tomorrow looks good to me. SB

Hi I've been showing some white smoke at start up and recently a freind told me that she's blowing white (smoke) when I shift. After a conversation with a mechanical freind and described the history of the car he immediately said the Valve stem seals were shot. The key words were extended layup (10 years), appearently without oil the little buggers dryrot permitting oil to travel the stem to the combustion chamber (blah blah blah) = white smoke. He suggested the I replace them by making a fitting from a spark plug and blow air into the cylinder to keep the valves closed:ermm: . Sounds good - if it works. In the meantime while I'm waiting on parts - is there anyone out there that can verify, deny or offer additional info befor I take this on. Thanking you in advance SB

I've been solving one minor issue after another over the past year with great success, but this one is the cheapest so far. I've been showing low oil pressure since I got the car last fall, read all the relevant posts and came to the conclusion that the sensor (sender) was tits up, so following the printed word - I got a pressure guage and tied it directly to the engine - no pressure . While I was trying to sort out the problem with the guage I was tapping the old sensor on a rag, some gunk came out (not much), so I decided to soak it in some kerosine for a minute and a little more came out. Never did get the guage to work SAE didn't fit I reinstalled the sensor - cleaned the connection and presto it went from 5-10 psi @ 3000 to 60 psi. Still not perfect but I'm not sweating bullets at 5000 anymore. Cheap fix, don't know how long it will last - took 20 minutes. :classic:

Bonjour restomod - you could check out the store in this site they sell a parts microfich - it contains all part #s and exploded diagrams to illustrate. Not trying to sell for the site, but I got one and and it is useful. I have seen these on line as well - maybe some else can line you up. Good luck.

Not running, needs paint, Rust in all the usual places - that's pretty broad strokes. Hope you got lots of cash - you'll need it. Looks hot though.

Very nice, where did it come from?

That's what I was thinking. Had another look, I got one pad significantly thicker than the other - I assume that means a sticking caliper piston??

I bought my 280 from California last year - all done through emails and electronic pics. It was a harrowing experience but it did work and the car was as described - virtually no rust. It wasn't cheap though - Shipping was $3000 (the car was less than the shipping) No doubt that there are nice cars down that way and I have seen several on ebay and other sources. But they are not all true beauties. There are some tidy deceptions that have been exposed through post purchase overhauls. I would like to get a 70 or a 71 but the fear factor goes through the roof when I concider the potential for it to go badly. It would be nice to have an experienced Z owner to have a look first hand.

Just finished a quick run in the Z, nice blast on the highway - squeak is gone, did notice however that the hub is hot to the touch. Perhaps normal?? Would this contribute to grease breakdown and subsequent bearing failure? Got me thinking the rotors are poor $$$. Basic solid non slotted type. Thoughts?

I've had a front end squeak for a couple of weeks - it was beginning to bug me so I did some reading and the symtoms sounded like a bad bearing. This made sense to me because I had liberally greased all bushings and checked the brakes for wear (no sweat). Bought the parts, removed old bearings on offensive side (looked perfect) installed new and reassembled as disassembled (re service book ) . Check rotation of hub - good, installed caliper - half rotation good other half light friction. Bled brakes, installed wheel. Checked rotation - friction all the way around - what the !!!. Just stopped raining - going for a spin. I'm no mechanic. What do you think? Perplexed in Newfoundland

My older brother was always a North American type car buff, everything was Vettes and Chevy IIs, 327s and 396s. When I was 18 (1976) he was 29, he had a 67 vette (327 x 4 spd) and I had just bought a 71 240 - I was very pleased and sought his approval. When I showed it to him, he looked it over, took it for a spin and simply said "nice rice". I felt satisfied that he liked it. I never interpreted the comment as negative in any way - I just thought it meant "cool japanese car". I have frequently refered to Asian cars as rice or ricers - nothing negative attached, just indicating manufacture origin. I have heard this term fairly often in the same context.

Very nice, it all looks beautiful. I'm jealous.