Sailor Bob

I really like the 20TIL3Z plates as well. Other variations such as 20TOO3Z may still be available.

$1.42.8 a litre this week - soon to go up again. Time for postal workers to deal with oil executives - this is grossly offensive.

315 TPZ = Blue plate numbers. I guess I am in luck, I may put one on the front bumper, although that could look weird - I am not a fan of the front bumper plate for the 280 - the off centre thing.

I have a blue set from California, would they be the originals?

What do you think of the new series of plates in Newfoundland. Appearently Sailor Bob is a title that is plateworthy. Actually photo shop at work. The 2800 is for real though, had to wait for a year it to be printed.

Looks great outside. How did you make out with the headliner?

The Sunbeam looks light in the front end, probably no engine. Interesting car though. A friends father had a Tiger - it really was a weapon. Maxwell Smart has one too...

You lost me.

Hey Jeff, boy that sounds like a nuisance taking it all apart to regrease. I wonder if it is a particular bushing that is troublesome - if you could narrow it down you could save alot of time. I found that the kit I got from Motorsport had more than enough grease to do it all - I still have a couple of small tubes left over (if I recall correctly). When I say heavy - I mean heavy - that stuff was like glue, very difficult to get off your hands. When I was at it, I heavily coated all contact areas.

By the way in reference to Urethane bushings being noisy (squeak, squeak) - I used the heavy grease supplied with the bushings (generously) and I have never heard a single sqweak. Lots of other Z noises... but no squeaks.

1/ Rear outer control arms are the worst to do do, due to the fact that you have to pull the spindle pins (and they are frequently difficult to remove) - I didn't change these for that reason. 2/ I found that the rubber gear was too sloppy - the urethane is a little hard on the spine but very tight (feels like a sports car). MIne are all urethane other than those mentioned in #1 3/ I would consider doing shocks and springs at the same time, as your bump stops are probably shot as well and to do them means you are well positioned to take on the entire job.

There are quite a few that you could pick up for under 5k, with bodies completely intact. I believe you will spend alot more than that to do the repairs and a good paintjob will not be cheap either. A nice trip to California and come home with a sweet new ride - there's alot to be said for that. As you said, you could use your current driver for parts.

It's a pretty hard looking item amounst all those Classic Zs. It would make me groan too.

I like them, but at the same time just like the plain look. I guess I like them on somebody elses car. I have commitment issues.

I just saw the review on CNN headlines. Looks like no academy awards and hopes are to retrieve the production costs.

Just saw on CNN headliners that they don't think it's gonna make back the cost of production. Should be on DVD pretty soon.

What a great looking Z. Your patience really paid off.

Welcome to the forum josh38. Hope you find what your looking for. To get info on the Z car history and things to watch for when purchasing check out Zhome.com . Good luck in your search.

Make that 2

Another vote for the switch.

Got her running fine again by cleaning the water temp. sensor conection and the injector connections with electrical contact cleaner and an air blast. The connections all feel loose to the touch, the boots are shot and the harness is rough looking but apearently the entire setup is still functional. So although it is running fine now - I will still look for a replacement harness. Z car source has one listed but they seem to be offline for a while. Thanks all for your assistance.

Yes, it seems to be resolved for now and running well. Other issues are still revelent, but the simple fix did the trick. Thanks for your assistance.

I'm no mechanic, but I have to say that I had a recent problem with running rich and based on advise from the forum I checked the water temp sensor connection and found that it required cleaning - cleaned the injector connections as well. Working fine again. Simply used electrical contact cleaner and a air hose.

I notice that the undercarriage is black - does that seem odd for an untouched car? The two cars I have had were the exterior paint colour on the bottom.

I can pull mine out as well - I thought it was the result of a theft. In addition mine will not rotate fully CCW - I always have that annoying beeping whenever I open the door. Oh and BTW great find.