hmsports

I have use a Corbeau Forza seat for the last three years and find it to be pretty comfortable. The only thing I have problems with is that I'm tall and the support at the front of the seat that bumps up hits me in the wrong spot. Other than that it holds you in pretty well even on the fast banks at Gateway. For the belts, the two heavy eye bolts fit into the original holes in the floor where the stock seat belts bolt. The sub-marine or ball-buster needs to have a hole drilled in the floor. Make sure to use the backing plates for the bolt so it doesn't pull through the thin floor metal. The shoulder belts are best attached to a horizontal bar behind the driver's shoulders. Make sure to follow the installation instructions VERY carefully as the angles for the lap belts and shoulder harness attachments are critical to help avoid spinal injuries. Racer Wholesale has the guaranteed lowest prices on harnesses. I have used the latch type and moved up to the twist-lock style. The latch type are difficult to get all five held in place and them latch them in. The twist lock is much easier -- you can click each belt in one at a time. Best of luck. Rick

You can get some good information from Racer Wholesale in Georgia -- or call them at 800.397.7811. They guarantee the lowest prices and should be able to tell you the best harness to get that you could use with a stock seat. The mounting kits for the lap belt screw into the stock holes where your OEM belts bolt. For the shoulder harness, you will probably have to drill some holes and use their backing plate mount to bolt them on. Be VERY careful at reading the directions when installing the shoulder harness. There are specific angles that you need to be aware of so you don't end up getting a compression injury to your spine in the case of an accident. You may need to fashion some type of mounting bar that goes behind the seat at the level of your shoulders.

The tie rod connects to the steering rack and at the end of it is a ball joint. The tie rod ball joint is bolted into the steering knuckle which is a short arm that faces forward and part of the spindle. Here what the tie rod end looks like: Oh, and Michael, it is amazing what you can find using Google :classic:

...because I saw two 350 Zs within a mile of each other! Who would believe one 350, let alone two in Florissant Missouri. The first was the cinnamon color (Nissan calls it Le Mans Sunset) driving North on Hwy 67 and then about an hour later a black (Nissan calls this Super Black) one pulling out of the parking lot and zooming up the same stretch of road. My wife didn't much care for it but I thought the black one looked pretty hot!

I'm thankful for a lot of things this year... ...one thing I'm thankful for is the friends I have made through this great site! Happy Thanksgiving!

The problem with the part from Advance Auto is that it is made to weld to a solid rear axle at the bottom. You can get performance inserts and springs from MSA that are straight bolt ons. If you want to do some modifying (cutting/welding) you can contact Ground Control and get their coil-over setup. $$$$ Here's the link to the Advance Auto enter the part number C2051 into the item box...

That bites -- been there. It is usually up to the scrutineer on the legality of it. I think as long as it doesn't interfere with your vision they may let it go. Worst case is that they mark it in your log and tell you that you have to change it.

Look to pay near or over $4 per foot for 1.5x.120 DOM... I like the petty bar. It can help especially in a rollover or flip where you come down hard on the top front of the windshield. Both of my cars that have been in pretty substantial front collisions -- one at 105mph - had absolutely no intrusion into the driver's compartment partially helped by the fact that I had firewall supports. I won't race a car without them. Make sure they are perpendicular to the a-pillar bar and have as large a backer plate as possible (100 square inches by the GCR). Make sure the plate is multi-angled and if possible, extend it toward the transmission tunnel. This will help since on the driver's side it will rest right behind your feet. I may have some 1.5x.120 sitting around. What lengths do you need? What car are you building -- 240,260,280? What is the minimum weight. I think you can use the 1.5x0.95 if you want. You know, if I can get my car built and 2Many gets his back together maybe we can have a 'Classic Zcar Club' road race for bragging rights... Rick

phi22b@ck, I've had to work on my windshield to get it out once the cuts were made also. Just keep slicing to make sure it is completely clear. You may have some old glue stuck from a PO or the rubber just grabs hold of the glass. Come in from behind with a single edge razor blade to release the back side. Be careful is all I can say :classic: By doing a precise silicone glue and fillet job, you can be assured of a weather proof seal. I always take the cut rubber out and place a bead of black silicone on the metal side before reinstalling it. This makes sure no water can get in there. My cars have always been outsiders and I have never had a problem with the windshield leaking. St.stephen, While I agree that if you had a street car, buying new rubber would be the correct thing to do but on a race car, the $49 could be put to use on a performance enhancing extra. I'm not discounting your post -- you always have some great things to pass on -- I'm just looking at things from a no-budget race angle. Rick

Remember when sex was safe and racing was dangerous? Anyway, according to the GCR, any lines (oil, brake, fuel) that pass through the driver's compartment must be either braided or covered in metal. I don't have a problem with braided lines. I use them no problem. If you want to be extremely safe, you could run some type of conduit with rubber lines (or braided) inside. I think this would be overkill. Install some 90 degree fittings coming out of the fuel cell into the braided lines and then another 90 degree fitting like you have shown in your diagram. From there, you could have another set of 90's that go back down to your pump and return line. I think that would be much cleaner and safer than just bending the braided line. If you clamp the line down to the bulkhead, make sure to use rubber coated clamps. It may also be a good idea to take an old bicycle inner tube and cut it to make a rubber strip to lay between the braided line and bulkhead for the full length of it. I usually error on the side of too much safety. When I was involved with local Nascar red-neck stuff I saw a lot of really dangerous (read stupid) things. ----- To put the picture in the post, I ftp the picture I want to my web server and then use the IMG button up above the entry box to point to the picture. If you don't have a web server to post the picture to, you are kind of out of luck. Plus if my server is down, or I delete the file by accident, the little x will show instead of the picture.

The grommets are more just to keep things from getting cut. If you notice fumes, you may want to put a little silicone around them later. I'm not sure where your fuel pump will be but if it is under the car, you may want to put some 90 degree fittings on the nipples (no, I'm not talking S&M here -- but it does remind me of an old girlfriend) so you can keep things out of the driver's compartment. The only problem is you would have to drill some holes in the 1" frame to get them to route out the side. Keep the pictures coming. Keeps me sane to at least see someone else be able to work on their car. Rick

Nice installation! As far as the bulkhead, you can just screw a flat piece of sheet metal to the 1" rails. Make a raised box with a lid around the fill in the middle. You can run some braided steel fuel lines out the lid -- don't forget to use rubber grommets. One note though, you might want to move the oil bottles to the other side if you are using them for ballast

Yeah, right!

I've always had my cell pretty low. Measure from the underside of the floor area to the lowest part of the pumpkin and you will get an idea of how much depth you will have available. I've always run a 12 gallon ATL cell which has the same dimensions as what you have except the 25" is down to 20.4" on mine. I have always had mine below the floor line with about 1" clearance to the filler cap and have never had a ground clearance issue. My cars are always at the lowest allowed (5") ride height and I've had plenty of bump-strip crossings. Sorry that I can't provide a photo.

Centerforce has been good for me. I've used the same one on my race cars for 7 years and it is still going strong... but I don't dump the clutch... although it does get a workout. MSA has them but I don't know how much the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing setup costs.

Here's the war-wagon I built to hold my tools and parts -- 6 feet long by 3 feet wide and stands 6 feet tall. Front suspension is from a Yamaha golf cart and the rear is from a 3 wheel Harley Davidson golf cart. Looks like a miniature ford 9". The cart straps to my trailer in front of my car and also keeps my garage organized. It is wired with lights inside the work area and runs off 110 or through a car battery and a power inverter. It is water tight and has locks to keep things secure. I was also given a used Dish Network satelite dish that I mount on top at the track as a joke. ... and the 10 ton press comes in handy for pressing out the rear control arm pins... and also for cracking walnuts at Christmas time :classic:

- engine hoist - engine stand - valve spring compressor - suspension spring compressor - brake shoe spring hat removal tool (looks like a screwdriver with a cup at the end) - piston ring compressor - brake bleed pump and/or catch can with hoses - pickle fork set - steering wheel remover - brake line flare kit - bearing pullers - bearing insert die set - seal puller - 10 ton press - carb synchronizer - timing light - remote starter push button - BEER - WINE - WHISKEY

I was told 1980 ZX calipers are what to use and yes, they are interchangable left to right.

Looks Dam Nice! Great Job -- very clean car.

When I ordered mine, I spoke with Rodger. They are off a 1980 sedan -- not a Z car. He knows me since I've ordered quite a bit from him so mention they are the same parts that Rick Hanson from St. Louis ordered about eight months ago.

It's nice to get things answered through a forum too. I've gained a ton of good information from reading other's responses. One note on the cell. You may want to caulk or seal the seams of the box you build and make sure to have a good vent line so you don't get knocked out from fuel fumes. Nothing like 104 octane fumes inside a helmet!

Good advice 2Many -- except being 245 pounds I would need quite a large cell to offset my weight :classic: I use a 12 gallon ATL cell that is mounted low and offset to the passenger side -- ok, right side to be PC. I needed it over that way so I had room for my Flowmaster muffler. The one issue I had with my cell is getting fuel out of it. The pickup and hoses are quite large and I needed to upgrade to a Holley Blue pump with a pressure regulator up front.

My fuel cell is low enough that I just cut a thin piece of sheet metal and screwed it over the area that I cut out. I cut a 8" square (approximately) access hole so I can get to my cap and mounted an access door to a hinge to cover the hole. I used one of the twist locks from the stock 240 access panels behind the seat to hold it closed. I've seen other guys, whos cell sits higher, build a raised box with a hinged door. Pretty much anything goes as long as there is a bulkhead -- there are no specs as to how thick. It can be steel or aluminum.

I've always had good luck with a pickle fork. Ruins the rubber boot, but they pop off pretty easily... They are usually free to borrow from the local auto parts store.

Try Courtesy Nissan in Texas. I think they had three left. The last three in the country.