hmsports

1. SCCA SportsCar 2. Grassroots Motorsports 3. Wheelspin - St. Louis SCCA Region's Newsletter 4. About a dozen racing/parts catalogs -- I read them like magazines because I can't afford to order anything from them :classic:

It was a ZX! Not a 240 -- so that's ok

Contact Courtesy Nissan in Texas. They have the complete frame rails and will give you a discount for being in a Z club

Repair panels. New. Door skins each $15.00. Rear quarters each $25.00

Some nicks - one with 710 cap :classic:. $10.00 each

Off a '72. Dirty but in great shape. $5.00

They are a Missouri special...

Two pair of slightly used Blue Coil 10x2.5" racing springs. One set is 500 pounders, the other 550 pounders. I also have two pair of brand new in the box 450 pound springs. $50 for each pair of used springs and $75 for each new pair.

So this guy walks into a bar with three ducks that he places on the bar. After a few drinks he asks the bartender to watch his ducks while he goes to the bathroom. While he is gone, the bartender jokingly asks the first duck what his name was. "I'm Huey", the duck says. Surprised at first, the bartender asks him "How's it going?". The duck replies, "Great, been in and out of puddles all day, just having a ball". The bartender turns to the second duck and asks him his name and how he's doing. The second duck responds, "My name is Dewey, and I've been in and out of puddles, having a ball all day". The bartenders turns to the third duck and says "So your name must be Louie, huh?". The third duck, disgusted, says "No, my name is Puddles... and don't you dare ask me how I'm doing!"

The problem with an oppressed people like the Iraqis is that they fear being raped, tortured or killed for having an opinion other than that of the tyrant running their country... let alone the means to fight. As far as why now and not before? My Dad's generation (he was a POW in Germany during WWII) and the generation following knew what freedom cost and what it meant to be free. Today, Americans have forgotten. The MTV/Nintendo generation thinks freedom is something they are owed. And much of the rest of Americans have enjoyed it for so long, they take it for granted. It wasn't until we were shaken back into the reality that we can lose that freedom that we began to really take a good look at just how easily it could slip away... and how fortunate we all are. But even since 9-11, many Americans have already fallen back into a state of complacency. It is horrible to think that we (or any other country) let these types of things go on in the past. I'm just glad we are finally stepping up to the plate to start making the idea of a peaceful 'Global Community' a possibility for future generations. Oh, yes, I am a Veteran and I am proud of America ! Godspeed to the brave American, UK and Australian soldiers standing up for humanity.

Imaging walking down the street and seeing an adult beating the tar out of a defenseless child. Don't you have a moral obligation to stop him? --------------------- "War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things; the decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks nothing is worth war is much worse. A man who has nothing for which he is willing to fight; nothing he cares about more than his own personal safety; is a miserable creature who has no chance of ever being free, unless made and kept so by the exertions of bettern men than himself."

Just a reminder NOT to ever weld on galvanized steel. The fumes it gives off are very toxic and can kill.

I've been blessed that I know a super honest, thoughtful and excellent mechanic near St. Louis. He is one of those guys that was tired of working for someone else who was a sheister so he started his own shop. When my wife's Exploder (oh, sorry, Explorer) needed A/C work, the Ford dealer told me $2,300 to replace everything because something blew up and ruined the whole system. He was able to get me going again, and convert things to the new ozone-safe coolant for under $400! I've also heard him on the phone with customers and he is always straight with them and is more concerned with getting things done right, the first time, than getting them done fast - at a fair price too - he doesn't price gouge. I drive an hour to bring things to him.

I have very detailed plans that I purchased from Lindsay's Technical Books . The author explains all pertinent information about forces etc. Also tells you how to use heavy duty steel caster wheels for part of it. They also have other books that explain how to build a metal lathe, milling machine and other tools VERY innexpensively. They even have books on how to build a steam locomotive!

I still have it. It does have the one crack and some blemishes. Also it needs a good cleaning.

Darwinism at its best... Another appropriate bumper sticker: 'Hey You! Out of the gene pool!'

Maybe not a house mortgage, but at least a double wide's for the Konis :classic:. I've found that the Tokikos go soft quickly. The Konis are good for the money because they are double adjustable and they can be rebuilt.

All I've used on my shortened struts were Tokiko Illuminas (or whatever the model was). They get soft quick when racing ITS -- less than one season (or about 5 race weekends). I have been trying to get information from Koni about their inserts and if my struts need to be shortened or not. Can't quite get a straight answer. One thing is to make sure you have the struts you plan to use BEFORE you shorten the struts. You need them to get exact measurements of how much to cut out of the strut.

1. Replace left rear wheel cylinder and replace shoes 2. Put on master cylinder resevoirs and bleed brakes 3. Replace slave cylinder, hose and bleed 4. Install electric fuel pump 5. Try to start it 6. Replace iginition switch 7. Get all the lights working 8. Fanagle an emission sticker 9. Drive and have fun

They will curl under quite a bit and the front will most likely bottom out on a good bump. You can help this by adding some aluminum bracing behind. There are a couple of other threads that explain this technique.

Not cheap to buy a good setup. You can simply get the control arm eccentric bushings to help get one degree extra negative. You can also slot the three bolt holes on top of the strut tower which will allow you to move the upper strut in for a little more negative -- however, the rubber isolator on the top of the springs usually gets in the way so you can't get too much.

Here's some very poor pictures (I need a new camera bad) of the one I've used for the last eight years. I purchased it from MSA. Also included are the dimensions I pulled off it. The 25x20mm round welded-on parts are threaded to accept the long bolts that hold the front of the R180 diff on. The other bolt's head is welded on and is used to mount the cross member to.