Virto

We lost my fiance's father just under a year ago. I know exactly how sudden it can be, and it's never easy for anyone involved. Godspeed Carl. Show those angels what a pull to redline can do.

Welcome aboard!

Just the brake lights or the brake lights, running lights and turn signals? Does it effect the back up lights? If it's just the brake lights, you might have a problem with the switch that contacts the brake lever under the dash. You might want to clarify for the more experienced members and check that switch while you're at it.

You need to check and see if you're getting current to the switch before you do anything else. If you don't have power going to the switch, then you certainly won't have it leaving the switch, no matter how well you clean it. When I got my car, the running lights worked, but not the headlamps. I had a dirty switch. This is probably more severe, so you should start at the beginning. Run a quick search, I know there are threads that tell you where to test. I'd run it for you but I'm scooting out the door. Good luck.

One would like to think... but you're right, maybe they don't have TVs. I just saw a cop show where the crooks had a 60" plasma hanging out the side door of a Corolla. And they wondered why they got pulled over...

Check Hybridz, more people there do the swaps and can direct you...and I think there are a few posts with full lists of required parts. I'm sorry I can't tell you, but you might be able to find it there faster than waiting for a post.

The norm at idle is ~36 PSI, so it sounds like you're pretty much on target. Have you checked the plugs for fouling, or the dizzy for any cracks or other wear? Make sure the air cleaner is also firmly attached to the AFM, and that all electrical connections are secure. I suppose you could have a gunked up filter or pickup in the tank, but your pressure seems ok, so we should check all the basics first.

Yhea, good idea. It's might even be cheaper than buying a new lock.

I suppose it's entirely possible. It could be something as simple as a production ended and they had leftover shells and nothing to do with them. Tons of surface rust, but it might clean up nice.

I'm assuming you're in California, or at least you have a california car, based on the cat. You'll want to drive the car for at least half an hour, and doing some highway speeds wouldn't hurt. Like Ed says, you may want to find a place that you can take it to test for a small fee, it's better than the state getting in your business. You'll want to fill with the lower octane fuel before testing, and whatever you do, don't run some kind of carbon cleaner. If you have a lot of buildup it can break chunks free and damage the engine or create false readings.

Yhea, and he wonders why the car sits and sits and sits and nobody wants it, or backs out at the last second.

Buy it from Courtesy Nissan...it's pretty widely accepted that only the OEM unit is worth trusting. People don't seem to care for the MSA or VB units. Not that the OEM one is super accurate, and it is about 50 bucks. It's up to you, but when I asked the same question about a year ago, I was pounced on and ordered to buy OEM, and I've had no problems.

Depends on the level of damage. Common trouble spots are the frame rails and floorpan. The pan is less expensive usually, as there are floorpan kits you can buy and weld in. Rails are usually fabricated by your welder, but there are rail covers you can buy which add strength that get tacked on over your repairs. Some level of damage is acceptable, but once it's rusty, it won't stop rusting until it eats all the metal around it. Best to get it fixed. A good guy will probably charge you about a grand if there's nothing too severe. Large scale damage would probably best be fixed by stripping the car to a shell and having it rotisseried at a good shop. This is also an excellent step in having a quality paintjob done. Of course, you can expect to spend much more for that, but if you want the car to last a long long time, it might be best to give the shell to a qualified person and have them go over it completely, fixing anything and everything. Since Texas isn't in the salt belt (although it gets its share from the gulf) it's not as likely to be catastrophic like those of us with midwestern cars. EDIT: If you really want a Z, you could buy more of a clunker (like mine turned out to be) and just drive it til it breaks. There are numerous people on here that have spent 10s of thousands to get thier Zs to a factory or better level. I just don't want you to go spend 7k on a car without knowing that there are potential problems waiting for you. Another good idea, with a carbourted Z would be to have the carbs rebuilt by a place like ZTherepy if they haven't been well maintained. Not cheap, but adds a lot to the life of the car.

No worries man. There's a lot of good people here that are more than willing to give you all the advice and guidance you need. We'll help you get the Z car you want, and if you have problems, we'll try and help sort through them. And if you don't end up buying a Z, your interest alone makes you welcome here. -Kelly

1) 240Zs were available with dealer installed A/C. The later the car, the more likely you are to have it. 2) Two speakers, not what you'd call "good." The alternator also doesn't put out much power, so I wouldn't plan on using a big amp or subs, although you COULD. 3) All 1st gen Zs have manual windows. If they're in good shape, they're butter smooth. 4) Depends on the condition of the suspension. Obviously it's not luxury car based, and with newer components expect a bit of stiffness, although not like a Civic with cut springs. 5) I assume you mean the hatch glass. Some people have aftermarket louvers. Keeps people from seeing what's in your cargo area and looks cool. 6) If the transmission and clutch are in good condition, certainly, if they aren't and you're not a fast learner, you may end up having to shell out for a new clutch. 7) 240s and 260s are fairly basic, 280Zs involve fuel injections and thus computer controls. Parts for all models can be pricey and some can be hard to find. 8) If you get a 1st gen Z fast enough to where you get some front end lift, you've got some mental problems. 9) Try picking another factory color from that time period. There is a list available if you do a search. Just don't try to sell the car as "original" down the road. 10) How reliable are most 30+ year cars? Take care of it, and have a good understanding of the technology involved and you should be fine. 11) As I mentioned earlier, the alternator puts out enough to cover the car's electrical usage stock. New battery or not, there's a good chance that a too-big radio will drain it. 12) It's a 2-seater unless you get a 2+2 model. Those have child size rear seats. 13) 1st gen Zs do not have T-tops. The 280ZX in 79 introduced them. 14) Expect a total and if at high speed, have good life insurance. They conformed to federal standards of 30+ years ago, so walking away from a big one isn't so likely. Also, check for ANY AND ALL RUST, primarily on the underside of the car and in the battery area and hatch area. This is a unibody car and all rust will need to be repaired quickly and by a skilled craftsman, or you risk the structural integrity of the car. Seven grand might be a good price if it's rust free and in good overal shape...but don't buy this car thinking it's going to be as reliable or dependable as something you'd go buy today.

...yhea, my Zs brake is seized up from sitting the winter. Guess I shoulda just used a brick, it was on level ground anyway. Just one more thing keeping me from getting her out on the road.

! Stuff gets lost in the buracratic maze of modern business, I see it all the time. It is funny though, that they bothered calling at all, you'd think after looking at the order, they'd have just assumed you'd given up.

oh lord....what else can be said?

Sorry to see the wrecks, especially the 300ZX. Of course, super awesome twisty road, with the addition of some showing off I imagine... Since nobody got hurt, I'll say that I feel worse for the cars than for the drivers.

I'd think you'd have gotten some lumpy running for a few seconds before cutoff if it was a fuel starvation issue, but I've got a 280, so I'm only used to FI. A lot of the most "in the know" guys on the board pop on around quitting time, as most work during the day. Someone will be around to give you a hand, it might just take a little while.

Very possible. I'm just noting my experience from trying to get my '77 LTD sprayed at the Macco that used to be in Downer's Grove, IL. If there is a specific way things are supposed to be handled, that's great, but they sure weren't in my case. Of course, the manager there was a real ****, and maybe thats part of why the place shut down a few years ago. I don't mean to blacklist the company if one guy wasn't on the up and up. Hell, if you weren't 1500 miles away, I'd come have you paint my car.

With customs information and everything attached!? Hopefully you can find others that have had the same problem with this buyer and maybe you can start a class-action style suit. People like this really bug me, but in the end, everyone gets what they deserve.

I like that you'll tuck her plates away in there. A lot of people pick up cars from estates where the owners have passed, and they simply smile at thier good fortune and remove any trace of the human touch that these (or any) cars had during thier long ownerships. She sounds like quite a find. I hope you get her back to showroom condition easily and swiftly. And I really respect what you're doing with the plates. You've got some real heart to take just that extra step.

I assume you really mean replacing the automatic transmission with a manual. The 5-speed will give you better fuel economy as it'll rev lower in top gear. The 4-speed is cool (I mean, LOTS of people have 5-speed cars...show them you're better by being inferior!) and readily available. Both are pretty durable if you're nice to them. I think there are 3 different versions of the 5-speed trans, and maybe only one version of the 4-speed (please correct me). From a scrapyard, both should cost about the same. Quite a few people have swapped 4s for 5s. I'm hoping they'll chime in.

Ebay brother, or check the classified section of the website. A little-rust car will not be cheap if you buy it from someone in the know. Your best bet is to find one on Ebay or the newspaper that is owned by someone who inherited the car. Expect to need to fix any Z you buy, rust wise. Even if there's hardly any rust, it'll build up before you know it.