=Enigma=

In looking at the pictures you posted several days ago, it looked like you had an early 280Z or maybe even a 260Z dizzy. Someone with a parts list should be able to tell based on the number you provided. I haven't received mine yet. Just ordered the CD a few days ago.

What exactly does this mean? Can you describe what you did? I doubt that has ever been disputed. . . .

Hey Tony, I believe you can get a vacuum unit for the 280ZX dizzy at VB.

I'll just say good luck and happy wrenchng. There's already plenty of info on these carbs and this swap here on the forum.

http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/162332044.html Comes with lots of extras......at least I think it's a package.

Is that actually true? I thought the main difference, aside from the size was the mounts. If I was to get a set of 71-72 mounts, couldn't I just bolt up the 71-72 bumpers to my 73'? I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere. ....off I go...

I try not to...it makes my brain hurt. Seriously though, I hate doing things twice so I try to do as complete a job as I can based on the time and funds available at the time. Sometimes, as in now, this adds to the length, complexity, and cost of the project. In the end I'm sure I'll have a smile on my face so it will be worth it no matter what.

Welcome to the board Shawn. Let the mods/resto/refresh begin!

Those Campos are pretty sweet but I like the ones Victor posted even more. Are those Campos as well or the TRDs you were referring to? Where can I find me some?

Welcome to the board Aaron. Lots of great info here. Good luck in your search for the right car.

Ok, here is a recipe to help you fulfill your dream. Better finish school first though. You're gonna need a lucrative career and an understanding woman to make it happen. http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-21.html

Here's another link to more pics with a description of each. MSD Install Pics . . .

Check the dizzy cap, rotor and wires. Look for cracks or carbon tracks in the cap as well as corrosion at the primary and secondary terminals. Clean them or replace as necessary. You can also check the plug wires for excessive resistance with a multimeter. I don't know the procedure but I'm sure it's on the board here somewhere. Another way to see if you have leakage or bad plug wires is to run the car at night and see if you can spot any arcs emanating from the wires.

It lives!!!!

To answer your intake/water question, I believe this was done to improve fuel atomization at colder temperatures and to regulate the temperature at the carbs during hot weather and long periods of low speed driving where the heat from the exhaust manifold can become detrimental to performance. There is probably some emission related value to doing both, but you probably won't need either in your neck of the woods, unless you get caught in LA traffic on a 100+ day. Mine was plugged when the PO switched to the older SUs from the flat tops.

Thanks. I'm sure you can get yours to the point of being safe, but the real question is, can you do it for $5k. Based on what I've read on here to date, that may be a bit of a challenge. If it were me, I'd take my $5k and find a better starting point. That's exactly what I did. $5500 to be exact. I've invested probably $1000 in parts, paint, and supplies since November 05'. My budget was $6-7K so I'm still on budget even with some extras. The only restoration work I've done, actually more of a refresh, was stripping off the suspension components and refinishing them. I'm in the final stages of this process now. This car has only minimal surface rust. So little in fact that it's barely worth mentioning. 98% of it was on the suspension and that's all gone now. Still has the original paint. Still shiny. . . . .

Well it's definietly not a warranty card. Interesting that it has both the Datsun and Nissan logos on it. Perfect evidence of an identity crisis.

GOSH! IS IT REALLY NECESSARY TO YELL? LET'S KEEP IT DOWN IN HERE FOR CHRIST'S SAKE. TYPING IN CAPS LIKE THIS MEANS YOU ARE YELLING!!! :mad: Type like this for a normal conversational tone. Cheers, Adam :classic:

ROFL ROFL Is it just me, or does this sound a little vulgar? . . . .

Welcome to the board. You'll definietly find all the info you need here. Use the search feature first, and if you can't find what you're after, add a post in the appropriate forum.

Welcome to the board. Wow! that's actually kind of scary. Nice color How close is your VIN to mine? Lot's of metal replacement needed on this one. You can get complete floor and quarter panels for these things, but you're probably going to have to canabalize another Z for the battery box area, or make your own. Also, the replacement floor panels don't include the firewall portions you will need so more canabalism or fabrication will be necessary here as well. I would imaging you will probably find that you will also need to replace the entire rocker assy after you dig a bit deeper. There's a thread on here titled "Rust Support Group" or something like that which might provide some aditonal info. And here's my Gallery pages if you need any visual references while working. http://www.jaderunner.com/Gallery/240Z

http://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html

The bolt is to replace the stock unit you have show in your picture. If you prefer to use the stock piece with integrated inside washers, ditch the bolt and two washers, then use the rest of the new stuff. Here's a text base rendition of how to hook it all up. "=" represents the sleeves "-" represents the bolt "(" & ")" represent the cupped washers "||" represents the swab bar and and transverse link "O" represents the new bushings --(O||O)==(O||O)--

Why not just ask him what it is? If he's still an acting Karate instructor, he's likely to have a place of business and a telephone. I know it's a novel idea but it might just work...

I'll be watching the obits for both of your failures.......erm...I mean successes!