2ManyZs

Hmm, wonder how long it will be before Alan goes to see this car in person.... hope he brushes up on his Italian first. Hard to point out all the things that don't look right on this car if you can't speak da language. A "factory" car with what looks like Western "Turbine"wheels? :stupid: Not a even a very good reproduction......and weren't all the factory rally cars red, not orange?

Geez, that's and easy one... John DeLorean... his car company died when he was caught in a cocaine sting operation, trying to help finance his struggling company.

It's quite possible the noise isn't due to the valve setting, it's probably in the lash pads themselves. It's going to be difficult to check with the engine in the car, but look to see if the wear pattern on the rockers extends all the way to the end of the wear surface and beyond. It will probably be easier to check if you remove the rockers one at a time to check. If the engine were out and on a stand, you could verify it visually as you turn the engine over by hand. Here's an old thread that discussed the lash pads, and you'll find a pic I scanned that shows what I am talking about. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6342&highlight=lash+pads

I think that's the same type as Rick has. Here's one that I like, at least for the price.... It also would take up less space in the shop and the price is about in line with the rest of them. They routinely list them on Ebay for about 100 bucks less than what is posted on the web-site too... http://www.toolsplus1.com/eztube.htm

Well, at least you were thinking ahead enough to ask before you put it all back together...... You can get urethane bumpstops from MSA and possibly from MidwestZ. They should last forever.....

Question 1. No, not on US (HLS) models, they didn't appear here as standard till sometime late in the 72 model year. Other markets did have rear sway bars during all the model years. Question 2. Yes, there is a stock bump stop in the upper spring perch or insulator. It's not a true rubber, and as such, has probably fallen out in pieces due to dry rot over the years.

The Datsun Dude (Andy Russell to those of us who know him) has a few NEW Factory Service Manuals listed on Ebay for those of you who still want one. He has 2-1970, 1-1972, and one 1973 manual listed right now. I have heard through the grapevine that some of the years are NLA from nearly all the suppliers who in the past have had access to them, so if you don't have one yet, this may be the time to put out the 75 bucks and get one.... http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=thedatsundude&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

Pretty sure you're gonna need the earlier bumper to go with the early type mounts. Not only because the ends of the bumpers aren't the same, but also because the "plate" where the bumper bolts to the mounts are also quite different.

Alan, I was wondering about the A/C in the car as well. Is that the factory (or dealer installed) A/C that was offered in all the European or home market cars? I was just curious as the HLS cars had (if it was dealer installed) what looks like a totally different system under the dash. Didn't we recently have a discussion about the rear markers, and came to the conclusion the mounting holes were cut out of the quarters and not stamped into the quarters? Seems that would be such a simple mod to make it legal, and it would still look factory, making the marker lights a moot point.

Sounds like you have just about everything done. A 160 thermostat should make a noticeable difference, but, remember, the temperature rating is when the thermostat is fully open, and not necessarily what temp your engine will run. In other words, with a 160 thermostat, your engine could possibly run at 180 all the time in traffic, while a 180 thermostat would possibly run at nearly 200 in the same circumstances. I would definately try the 160 thermostat, and perhaps blocking the water to the intake before you do anything else. It may end the warm start problem and solve most of the issues you want to address. Or, just replace the water control valve (thermostat) at the back of the intake, as it could be that it is not cutting off the water supply at the correct temp and that is causing your semi-vapor lock.

It depends on which type of gasket you are using. Rubber or cork and rubber gaskets are better without any sealant, as the sealant will cause them to "squeeze" out as you tighten them up. "Paper" type gaskets can benefit from a light coat of the Permatex Black sealant. Just a very light skim on the surface is all you need.

Sounds like someone has talked themselves into another project...:classic:

It's gotta be either in the ignition (distributor, if you used the same one on both motors), or in the fuel system since those are about the only things the two engines have in common that weren't changed.

If I were living where you do, I'd do the following, or at least most of them.... 1. Get the largest core radiator possible in your budget, 4 row would be best, but a 3 row is better than the stock 2 row. 2. Rebuild the fan clutch and make sure it's operating correctly. Look in our tech articles for a How To on that. 3. Use some Water Wetter from Redline in your coolant. 4. 180 degree thermostat, or, if possible, a 160 just for summer. 5. Flush the coolant on a regular basis and make sure the mixture is correct. 6. Make sure your timing is correct, if it's even 1 or 2 degree advanced it will contribute to overheating. 7. Block off the water line to the intake, or put a valve in the line so you can use it in the winter months. 8. Consider an electric pusher fan in front of the radiator, especially if you get into a lot of stop and go traffic. 9. Use the insulation on the fuel rail if none of the above helps the warm start condition. 10. You could add to the heat shield on the intake to more thoroughly cover the exhaust, and even add a heat resistant matte to the bottom of it(exhaust side).

Stock, tired engines probably won't go much more than 6-6.5K.. Newly built engines with new valve springs and a performance cam won't have any trouble up to 7-7.5K Go to 8K to often( if it will even go that high), you may be picking up pieces.... The shorter stroke of the L-24 will allow it to rev higher than the longer stroke of the L-28.

I don't know if the relays themselves would be the same, but I'm pretty sure all the 280 (75-78) have nearly the same things on the relay bracket under the dash. I know it was a bit of a confusing mess under there on the 75 I had....:cross-eye

Yep, there's an ignition relay. It's on the bracket under the dash on the passengers side, it should be just behind the bracket for the foot vent control. Not sure exactly which one it is other than what is shown in a crappy pic in the Hayned manual.

Craig, you've already got enough "toys" in your playroom.....

Can you imagine the damage if a drunken idiot were driving something like this???? Even SUV's wouldn't be safe.......:cross-eye http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2465384235&category=6729

Since it is pretty well trashed as it is, while at the boneyard, you might want to look at a non-turbo F-54 block out of a ZX. Getting the non turbo F-54 will get you a flat top piston motor with a little higher compression than the standard L28. Look for a motor with the P79 head.

I think if you check with Chloe at MidwestZ, she may still have them. She had them listed as a special on her home page not long ago, J bolts, nuts, flat washers, everything you'd need.

I knew you'd say that Kevin..... If I had room for it, I'd probably try bidding on it too, as long as it had a title.

Simple, get a small piece of rubber hose that fits over the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder on the bellhousing, open the bleeder just a little, put the hose in a can and pump the clutch pedal. Keep adding fluid to the reservoir till it's fairly clean, then close up the bleeder till it's just barely open, pump the clutch pedal a couple times and close the bleeder. Closing the bleeder till it's just barely open will put some pressure in the line to force the fluid out with any air, or you can just do it by gravity. Close the bleeder, refill the reservoir and your done. Oh, if the screen in the bottom of the reservoir is really gunked up, you can pull it out with a pair of small needle nose pliers and clean it.

One thing about taking the top off a Z is that you know you have plenty of legroom! I had an MG once, plenty of legroom, but the damn doors were so small it was a PITA to get in and out of. I've always like TR-6's, "tried one on" and guess what, no legroom. Same with the Miata. Footbox is too small too..... The only one I'd like as much as a topless Z right now is the Honda S2000, but, the Z is paid for. If I do mine, it's not going to be a convertible, it'll be a roadster, no top. Not planning on driving it unless the weather is perfect anyways. 2-4-T-Z Man, I looked up your car, looks great to me, but how in the heck did you do the front bumper? Sectioned in the middle or cut on the ends? BTW, yours with the "hood ornament" like the one on the bottom right would have been perfect.:devious: :classic:

:sick: :tapemouth :sick: :tapemouth :sick: Take off half the overdone body mods and it might look OK. Not gonna sneak up on any 5.0's or Vettes with something like that. Half the reason for V-8 swaps is "stealth".....:devious: