EScanlon

EXCEPT that if you have EVER sold more than 6 items in a year, then you are considered a HIGH VOLUME SELLER and the fees apply. http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/motorfees.html Then in the examples given: With eBay being a very common point from which a lot of people DO sell items, the probability that a person has already exceeded the "less than 6 items in a year" provision is higher, resulting in the person getting charged the FEES. We're both right... with cautions though. E

If you are just hoping to research it's value, without actually selling it, the only way to do so is to OFFER it for sale, but REFUSE to sell. That's what a reserve price gives you. But, the biggest problem with e-Bay auctions, is that you are hoping that the "stars align" properly and you cash in on everything working out. You then pay e-Bay it's share REGARDLESS OF WHETHER YOU SOLD IT OR NOT. So you set your reserve at an astronomical price, and e-Bay recognizes this and charges you a large amount of money for your auction, because it's obvious you're not going to sell the item, unless someone foolishly accepts your unreasonable reserve price. Or you set a rmore easonable reserve price and it's met by the buyer, which means you are now FORCED to sell AND PAY E-BAY IT'S SHARE OF THE SALE, Only then, you find out you didn't know the proper reserve price and you undervalued it by several thousand, and you're out your car, and whatever money you undervalued it at. Which means that it is an expensive method to do some bad research. However, if all you want to know is what would your car bring? Put it up for sale in the Nickel Ads, Craig's list, or other local papers and, again, refuse to sell because they didn't offer what you wanted. You may, at worst, have to pay ad fees in the newspaper and nickel ads, but they'll be a whole lot less than e-bay without the risk AND they won't increase simply because you asked for more money. FWIW E

From seeing the picture, the passenger floor plan IS showing some rust, and more will be found when you remove the tar mat. Pricing is difficult, the car is in pretty good condition... at least at initial glance without pouring over each shot to criticize it, but it IS showing a couple areas that would be questionable, in my experience. As a result, I wouldn't offer much over $1200. FWIW E

From the referenced link to Arne's post: This is a must-do consideration if you are considering the change to a set of lenses with the Amber turn signal. Sadly there are a lot of cars who have the Amber Lenses installed without this lighting modification having been performed and then it just looks dumb. E

And more evidence to the file as to why this kind of repair is referred to as an IPO repair. 2¢ E

Check the floor pans from the UNDERSIDE, same with the rockers. I've seen "spotless" tar-mat covered floors that proved to be swiss cheese. FWIW E

Good thing you at least tried. Why not post pics of the ones you DO have, that way those that are knowledgeable in what it SHOULD have, they can help you identify what is nissing. 2¢ E

One point in this discussion that I think is being overlooked, is that there were a couple other variations to consider here. We are referring to 3 different transmissions. Two with 4 speeds, and one with 5 speeds. The transmissions called out for different shift knobs, pretty obvious no? But consider this: The 4 speed variation: While the 4 SPD WOOD shift knob was the same for either the A or the B 4 speed transmission, there were THREE different part numbers. Difference unknown. The 4 SPD NON-WOOD knob (presumably plastic, the microfiche does not mention material) had a different one for the A transmission and TWO different ones for the B. That's 6 different part numbers for 2 transmissions of the same ... 4 speed... type. The 5 speed showed TWO completely different P/Ns but doesn't mention material, so presumably plastic. Aside from the # of speeds, are we even talking about the same insert? Can we verify that the one in the wood is the same as the one in the vinyl, (or was that an aftermarket one?). Just food for thought... E

Do you have a spare E12-80 module? I had that problem once, and it was when the module decided it was overheating. Replaced it and problem solved. How warm was the engine? Not a real good guess, but as a WAG, it should be a start. E

Then why not make your own? There is a template for the backing for download in the forum showing you dimensions, cuts and hole placements for the board. You could make it out of some ABS or TFE plastic so as to avoid the moisture absorbing problems of particle board. As far as the vinyl covering, if all you want is to cover the board, simple vinyl, leatherette or other ... whatever.... is up to you. Don't listen to those who would criticize it for not being original or to their taste, it's YOUR car, and more to the point, it's YOUR budget. If they feel bad enough about it, they can contribute to your fund to restore it to stock. Replacement skins are available WITH the chrome strip, but again, you'll be spending some money and still having to come up with the backing, whether by making or re-using. But if you decide to go it custom, the key is to be careful and produce a quality product and not something cheesy. So if perfect panels aren't a priority, then do check the classifieds, put a "Wanted" ad, and check e-bay and Craig's list, they're out there. Most expensive will be the shipping. FWIW E

Have you considered running a strong magnet over the area where the fasteners were strewn about? E

Careful... while that diagram may say Basic Model S30 for USA, there are a few items that did NOT show up on the USA model, and items that are questionable. The US basic S30 did NOT have a Passing Light Relay in it's headlight circuitry. It did not have dual license plate lamps It did not have a Thermo Switch Electric Fan in the engine compartment. Lastly, it only had ONE Heater Fan, not two. Additionally, that wiring diagram shows the provisions for the AT Kick Down Switch and interlocks, but does not show the Dual Point Dizzy. FYI E

The items that Conedodger referred to were the Interior DOOR panels. Those unfortunately, are hard to find in good condition... i.e. no speaker holes, no tears, snags, or puncture marks, and lastly, with the chrome strip still showing chrome. Additionaly the original hardboard is infamous for soaking up humidity (that's why there's a vapor barrier) as well as having the clip holes tear out of the edges when being removed. That's why the fiberglass backing is such a good deal. Expect to pay UPWARDS of $400 or more dollars for a set of Interior Door Panels in good condition. In excellent condition.... probably double that. Sometimes.... yes sometimes, a set will pop up on e-bay or Craig's list that is in good to excellent condition... then the bidding will go through the roof. Be sure to take a close look at any pictures as there have been surprises when the item gets delivered. FWIW E

Check with the dealer, some of these parts are still available from them. I'll check for the part number later so you can call them with it, but maybe someone will beat me to it. Additionally, the ZX dizzy is a simple swap system and those CAN be obtained through auto parts stores. You want the 79 280 ZX with the E12-80 module. E

Olzed, are you referring to the auction or to MSA? MSA does differrentiate between the 70-73 and 74 and later. Don't forget that in the US, we only had the 260 for one year, 1974, while you had it for severral more. In fact, if memory serves, your first introduction to the 280 was the ZX model, or am I wrong? FWIW E

Why not check with our site sponsors as they will have EVERYTHING you need instead of waiting for the right item on ebay? That panel would only be 3 dollars cheaper doing their buy it now, than from Motor Sports Auto who help support this site. Additionally, that panel in the auction has questionable tail-light access panels, they don't look right. The shininess of the plastic also leaves me with doubt. Here's a link to Motor Sports Auto's on-line catalog of the interior parts for the rear of your car. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SIC07 In addition to being able to get everything from ONE source, you'll know that they'll fit together and if you have any problems that you can contact them and they'll make it right. They'll also be able to sell you the rivets you need to mount them. (The photo for the tail-light panel shows the fasteners in a bag.) Doubt the auction includes them in the above e-bay sale. You can find bargains on e-bay, but it takes time and patience to sort and sift through all the garbage as well as the over-priced items or items with outrageous shipping charges. Sometimes what you "save" in $ turns into a large pain and expense that eventually costs you more than what you saved. And then doesn't look right. FWIW E

You mention it will not turn over, then you say it has spark. Do you mean that the engine WILL turn over, but that it won't START? Not trying to beat you up over it, but not turning over would say bad starter or need new battery or at least charge the old. You wouldn't be able to tell what kind of spark you had. Spark says the engine (and therefore the dizzyy) is rotating and that is why you're getting spark when you check, but without it starting, you're back to fuel or air. ================== No they didn't. While they always had the provision in the electrical system for an electrical fuel pump, at least as of the 71 on. (Haven't been able to locate a good 70 diagram, the "Basic" S30 diagram did NOT show the electric pump.) They NEVER installed BOTH an electric and a mechanical pump as far as anyone has reported. The electric fuel pump was more heavily relied on once the problems with vapor lock surfaced in the 73's and on. However, since the OP's car IS a 71, it is highly doubtful that he's equipped with an electric fuel pump unless it was added later. Even then, running BOTH an electric AND a mechanical pump would more than likely generate MORE problems than solve, that's why the dealers would block off the mechanical when activating the electric pump feature and not run both. ======== FWIW E

Sorry if I was too blunt. I have had passengers in my car get befuddled trying to separate the shoulder belt from the lap belt so they can use that odd "keyhole" to hang the belt, then using the square part and complaining that it isn't long enough.... yada yada yada... and then almost breaking the hook trying to insert the metal buckle. I figured you knew how to do it, after winning a Gold Medallion. Congratulations by the way. E

Actually, no. The male half of the seat belt stays attached to the shoulder harness via the double keyhole on the metal opposite where it latches to the female half of the seat belt. The Adjuster on the Shoulder Harness has a big "D" loop that goes into the J hook on the dog leg. Same as with the earlier version on the seat. 2¢ E

Years ago, I worked on a shifter knob that had an inverted Nut that tightened UP from the bottom once you had the knob aligned. Trying to remove it by the regular method of twisting, pulling etc. didn't yield anything and we had left it alone. Then one day, working flat on our back on the floor, I looked up and essentially "upskirted" the knob and noticed what appeared to be a "screw" or rather two notches in the underside "nut" holding the knob on the shift rod. When I commented what I found with Joe, the MWR Auto Shop monitor, he said it sounded like a "lock-nut" arrangement and that I should unscrew that "nut, and that then the rest of the knob would unscrew normally. I used a special tool, can't remember the name, but it looked like a rounded off wrench with pins sticking out of the side of the wrench which fit into the grooves of that nut. I had started using a pair of bent nose needlenose pliers when Joe mentioned he had that tool. I unscrewed that nut completely, and sure enough the knob simply unscrewed from the rod. That lower nut was in fact a nut that locked the knob in place. Don't know that that is the case with yours, but it's worth a check. FWIW E

Mine's an early 71, but it has been years since I've been into the wiring up front. When I refurbished mine, I removed all of the wiring, and cleaned and DE Grease all the connections etc. so I haven't had to get in there for a while. I may be working on it this weekend, if the items for my Roadster don't pop up first, and if so I'll look. E PS, Richard, update your profile with your car's info.

That's true, except that you know that SWMBO will eventually catch up with you, barefoot or not. As mine says, you have to sleep sometime, and the way you sleep? You're dead meat! E

Oh, agreed!! But, like the saying goes, walk a mile in someone else's shoes and you're then a mile away with a new pair of shoes! Sadly, the reality is that we have yoked ourselves voluntarily, and that is why we refer to them as SWMBO. (She Who Must Be Obeyed) E

Or even simpler, the R/W wire they used is the SAME wire everywhere they used the R/W wire, and there was no need to source a smaller gauge wire for the short sections it would have been "economical" to use it for. (Which would not have been more economical overall.) That is, it would have meant TWO different gauges with the SAME color markings, meaning that it would DOUBLE the possibilities of the wrong gauge being used in the wrong spot. So, for simplicities sake, they used the same gauge within the same circuit everywhere. That R/W wire is ONLY used in that circuit and nowhere else in the car's circuitry. 2¢ E

Jim: Sometimes just disassembling the Wiper PIVOTS, the ones that go through the cowl, is enough to go from "Slow and Slower" to "Not so slow and Almost fast". There are a couple of good threads on that in the archives as well. E